Hi,
I’ve taken a look at numerous articles and sources but haven’t found any which discussed how to create an even and uniform mortar joint when laying up block or brick.
Is it as straightforward as setting a level line and placing the blocks/bricks to the line? If anyone can point to a good discussion/article or video/dvd it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John
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Replies
Is it as straightforward as setting a level line and placing the blocks/bricks to the line?
The simple answer is yes. But the process required to get to where you can pull a mason's line, to lay a long course of brick or block, requires lots of skills and plenty of practice too.
I don't know that any article would be adequate for a novice. Maybe an hour long video, or a series, with good explanations of everything that goes into bricklaying would do it...maybe.
My preference would be to hire a brick mason to teach me as we worked together on my project, for a week or more. I'd probably hire a helper/laborer too, someone who would stay with me to finish the job.
In the end, I expect that I'd want to keep the mason on the job until it was finished, no matter how proficient I became.
Edited 6/9/2009 5:06 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Do you play pool?
A good pool player has a smooth, steady and consistent
stroke.
Same with a good bricky. From loading the trowel to laying the
bedjoint it's confident accurate and consistent.
No video is going to give you that. Sorry
Your going to have to lay a LOT of bricks.
The only other factor is consistent good mud.
That is a catch 22 in that you'll have to figure that out
as you try and master the rest at the same time.
Or as Hudson says- hire a teacher.
I made good consistant mud for my dad. So good that I had to mix it all while my two brothers got to help lay brick.
No shame in that! I spent my childhood as a Hod carrier also.
Me too - hod carrier from age 6 to 26...
As stated above, mix good mud and lay the block / brick to a line. Use a bit of extra mud and use a 6 foot 2x4 for a straight-edge and tap the course to the line.
It does take experience to lay a straight and even line. In this economy, I think you could find a mason to do it pretty easy.
Good luck.
haven't seen anyone mention a storybook board for establishing joint widths.
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter WFR
"But when you're a kibbutzer and have no responsibility to decide the facts and apply the law, you can reach any conclusion you want because it doesn't matter." SHG
No, My dad didn't give compliments so I knew I was good at it.
Read up on it, and work with an experienced brickie, that'll be your start.
What will do it for you to lay consistent lines is practice, practice and practice.
After you get done practicing and get it down to a system and a rhythm, then practice some more. Then start to speed it up. After you've sped it up to make it so you can actually make a profit, then you'll want to practice some more.
Wet trades are about getting the muscle memory and feel of the material and the timing of the set as much as anything.
I can do a mix by the book down to the teaspoon but can tell you by the look and feel if it's right or not. I can't really teach anyone that.
"Just do it" Nike
We built a small commercial building last year that had to have very even joints in the brick, so after the brick was set and it was time to tool the joints, a strauight 1x4 was held up to the wall and the tool was pulled along like a fence on a table saw. Nice straight tool lines, and it helps to hide small variations in the joint thickness.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Here ya go -- just watch this vid. Then do as he does. Simple. (It's tough to see, but his line is on the outside edge of the wall.
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/yt-8VGjA66RSm0/brick_laying_and_masonry/
FWIW, IME, the thing that gives most beginners problems is mixing their mortar to stiff to allow for tapping the block level.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
Wow,
A guy like that almost makes you think anyone can do what he's doing.When you know that he's got the perfect mix and he gets exactly the right amount on his trowel every time and his wrist action forehand and backhand is effortless.
A pleasure to watch, thanks. Vince Carbone
Riverside Builders
Franklin,NY
"A guy like that almost makes you think anyone can do what he's doing."
You mean they can't? ;-)
Tho' if you look at the comments, a lot of folks dis him for using the back of his trowel. Me, if I could do half that well, I'd even use the handle! LOL! The guy definately has rhythm.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
Maybe once every ten years I get to lay some block for one reason or another, talk about funniest home videos.
And every time I start out thinking, hey, I've done this before, no problem, yea,think again. Vince Carbone
Riverside Builders
Franklin,NY
one of the problem with masonry inspection, if you have a mason that has a bad habit, like cutting the corner with the mortar, you cannot break him of that habit. It hard wired in, so might as well run him off. One of the biggest problem is a completely filled head joint. If the trowel comes off the block at a angle, it will never be filled.
A guy like that almost makes you think anyone can do what he's doing.
Very true, until you try it and realize how much skill and muscle are actually involved. This guy's laying 10s with one hand, very gently and accurately, as if they were nothing. Those are typically about sixty pounds each.
On union work, the carpenters erect pipe scaffold for the masons so I worked with them from time to time, when I was in the union. It was always entertaining to watch them go at it like that. They certainly have my respect.
I tried laying up one foundation with 12s, all to be below grade. I was young and pretty fit but that job taught me to leave block work to the masons, particularly 12s.
I think it's hard for someone who hasn't tried to set 12's
all day to appreciate the skill and strength that guy has. There is an old mason's joke
(don't know if it's just around here or not). When the young tough guy's start mouthing off an old guy will
shuffle over. He'll pick up a 10# sledge by the very end of the handle
and very slowly lower it down and touch his nose. "Twenty bucks says you can't do it." Funny how a broken nose quiets em up.
I think it's hard for someone who hasn't tried to set 12's all day to appreciate the skill and strength that guy has.
Henley, I have laid 12's all day and I definitely appreciated that guy's strength and skill. Twelve blocks in five minutes! That was awesome.
That is disgustingly beautiful to watch.A few years ago I was over my bro-in-law's house, he was having an addition put on. Stone work. I ended up pulling up a lawn chair and downed a few brews while watching them work. I enjoy watch masons and plasterers work. An odd fascination.Are those spacers in the course below the one he's working on? Look down by his shins. I've never done block work, so are those put in after he sets the course he's working on so he can go higher while the mortar below is still wet?
"That is disgustingly beautiful to watch."
I agree -- I watch it every now & again just because it's relaxing to watch HIM work! ;-) Kinda like watching a concrete ballet. And nice music to boot!
"Are those spacers in the course below the one he's working on?"
Dunno, but I don't think so. I've never seen a mason use spacers like that except to use a pebble every now & then if there's a need to support one block due to something going on up top, like a cantelever. I think it may be some sort of attachment system for whatever is going to cover the side he's working from. Mebbe a brickie can set us straight?
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
wall tie's probably.
Thanks to all three for replying. Yeah, I went back and viewed it again and saw the wall ties repeated in the lower courses. The first time I viewed it I only caught the row of ties by his shins.
Are those spacers in the course below the one he's working on? Look down by his shins. I've never done block work, so are those put in after he sets the course he's working on so he can go higher while the mortar below is still wet?
Mongo, I think those are the eyes of two-part ties used in commercial construction:
http://www.daytonsuperior.com/a02_tiesanchors12_DA518.html?pcid=144
Look down by his shins.
Are you talking about the welded wire ties that are hanging on the scaffold? Those are laid in every three courses of block, 24", as ties for the brick veneer. They're often called railroad tracks. They're made in various widths, so that 24" foam insulation can be placed between them, when called for, while leaving another 3" to tie in the brick veneer.
Definately got smooth moves. Do you think this is going to be poured/grouted or is it normal to not mud the webs? The brothers (no, not gentlemen of color, bio-brothers) that did my basement were awesome to watch. I was in awe of the non-bio brothers that did the old part of the house back in the 50's. They were a family that did just about all the masonry around here and did super work.For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Don't know what the requirements are for grouting the cores. I've never done block, everything around here is poured.
Have not looked lately but it used to be a backfill height over certain amount required it (grouting) in addition to rebar and other good practices, but I am used to seeing the block mudded on the webs if not being grouted. Mostly from a demo, what I see when tearing something down or cutting it out.
BobFor those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Holy Cow!!! That there is poetry in motion...I'd have to say he's been doing it more then just a month or two. Couldn't really see it but how does he get mud on the back side of his trowel? Went too fast and they didn't show it well enough on the camera angle.
Same as loading the front.
scoop and set. Proper mud will stick to your trowel (mostly). That backhand move is unusual...
If you look at the comments, I think I recall reading that the guy was experienced, but not real long.
As for getting the mud on the back of the trowel, I'm one of those who prefers that for operations where the handle will get in the way. You just flip it over, scoop it up, and do the drop/bump to compact it to the tool.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
A small crew of experienced brick types were building a sound wall along the freeway outside my office back during the quake of 89 here, was that ever a sight! Walls were up to about 16 feet, some wet and not complete, those portions which were wet and still unfilled and no reinforcement, fell over by the hundreds of yards. Several football field lengths were nothing but piles of block and twisted scaffold. Scary!! They had quit for the day by the time the quake hit a little after 5 PM...Lucky I guess.