Experience with 3/8 engineered flooring?

As part of the basement remodel I’m currently working on, the homeowner wants engineered flooring. no problem. but wait, I then find out it’s 3/8-in. thick engineered flooring – and I’ve never dealt with the stuff before… 94473.57
I was hoping to have the added rigidity of full thickness flooring for this project, especially because the subfloor is fastened to PVC sleepers at 24 in. oc. Do I need to worry about this stuff being less rigid (more flex underfoot) than full-thickness T&G flooring?
I’ve read on ifloor.com that you can’t use nails for this stuff, and I don’t really want to do glue down…so I guess staples are the way to go? If I get a floor stapler, is that pretty much limited to being used with engineered flooring, or can it be re-used with solid.
any real life feedback would be great. Thanks everybody.
Justin Fink – FHB Editorial
“Everybody wants to know what I’m on…
What I’m on? I’m on my bike, busting my
# 6 hours a day…
…What are you on?”
– Lance Armstrong
Replies
we just finished a 3/8 Mannington Glue-down,
.... very nice feel
I'd stick with whatever the mfr. is going to recommend
JFink,
I'm used to the other stuff, the solid T & G stuff, But this spring put down the 3/8" engineered flooring in my own K & DR. I don't like wood as a kitchen floor but thought heck, this is something I can do myself and it should see me through my time. Our local "box" is Menards here and their advertised price was $1.50 a foot with rebate. Truly the bottom of the barrel in price. Made in China but the maple looked like ours [in this country] and I do know they buy ours.
I was impressed to say the least. I didn't have to reject one inch. Also the machining was, what can I say, perfect. My criticism would only be the thinness of the top ply. It could not stand one sanding I'm sure and I wouldn't try it. However I would expect to screenback it sometime and refinish if neccessary. The second ply is thicker and is as hard. I must say also that in the four months we've had it and messed it up here and there it always cleans up nice so far and is unbelievably tuff.
I snapped a chalk line to start and glued down the first two strips. Then bought the recommended stapler and one inch staples. Pulled the trigger every 8" to 10" and then glued down the last two strips. My nephew gave me enough help that I gave him the stapler so he's happy and I know where he lives. His profession is laying, sanding and finishing floors.
But now, as to ridjidity, it's hard to say. It sounds like you have the subfloor down so it's too late to add sleepers. If you have all the material there you could get an idea of the flexing by laying some out and some jumping up and down. If much flexing occurs maybe the easiest fix is an added layer of subfloor.
Mesic
I did an engineered glue down floor in the house we lived in just prior to moving to CT. It went in fast and easy. No problem.
Andy
"Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein (or maybe Mark Twain)
"Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom
"Everything not forbidden is compulsory." T.H. White, The Book of Merlin
Thanks for the thoughts guys. Turns out the Homeowner is leaning towards using a thicker engineered product anyway. He doesn't want to do the glue down method because of the mess, and I don't want to take the chance of the glue being a vapor barrier.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
"Everybody wants to know what I’m on...
What I'm on? I’m on my bike, busting my ### 6 hours a day…
...What are you on?"
- Lance Armstrong
Slightly more upmarket engineered planks such as Mirage or Kahr's will have a much thicker wear layer. I think it's about 1/8 inch.
Kahrs is a great looking floor.... BUT... it's a floating floor..
how are you going to refinish a floating floor ?
so the thicker surface allcomes to naught
to my knowledge, you can't put a floor machine on a floating floor Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I think they market the interlocking stuff as either floating or glued down. Floating is for DIYs and those crazy Swedes who take their floors with them when they move house, and glue-down is for the pro installers only.
My DW bought Pergo 3/8" engineered hardwood floor (basically the top layer is real wood and it looks somewhate natural).
I emailed the rep at Pergo and got permission to use staples to put the floor down even though the directions stricly forbid it repeatedly. I didn't want to use glue either. Turned out great.
Are you sure the stuff you used is real wood? I thought Pergo only made laminate flooring (picture of a wood on the top layer).Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
"Everybody wants to know what I’m on...
What I'm on? I’m on my bike, busting my ### 6 hours a day…
...What are you on?"
- Lance Armstrong
I did also.
But I looked on Pergo's website and they do have a line of engineered hardwood..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
http://www.pergo.com/shop/category.aspx?categoryID=48
Yep, the top layer is real wood. I like the look and it was easy to install.