Anybody experienced with building ceramic tile countertops?
I found some beautiful polished ceramic tiles this weekend on sale. I would like to use them for a kitchen countertop. The tiles are 12*12 inch quarter inch thick, speckled black/gray and look like fine granite. Unfortunately they don’t come with bullnose or corner tiles.
Having never done a countertop I have some questions. The existing countertop is 1 and a half inches thick. I was thinking of using three quarter ply and half inch concrete tile backer. Do I really need the tile backer or can I simply use plywood substrate? Can water get through the grout and attack the ply?
The edges are a real problem I have. I don’t want to use wood or a metal edge as suggested by the store. How could I polish the ends of the tile that overlap the horizontal tile?
Any other suggetsions for the edges?
What grout spacing must I use? I would like to keep it as small as possible. Is one eighth inch OK?
Thanks.
Replies
Tile edges themselves are prone to chips. An edging material is highly desirable. These are ceramic tiles that look like granite rather than thin granite? Actual granite tiles will hold up better. Ceramic tiles can't be polished on the edges. You'll cut through the glaze. Granite tiles can be polished. Start with 240 or 400 grit wet-or-dry paper. Depends on how rough it is. Use with plenty of slightly soapy water. Go through every grit up to 1200. After that, use auto body rubbing and polishing compound. There are special products that work better on stone, but this stuff is easy to get at an auto parts store. Lots of elbow grease.
I would use the concrete board underneath. Grout thickness is up to you, just use the right stuff for that thickness. Maybe an epoxy grout. Sticks really well and doesn't need sealer.
Use a backerboard. Tile won't stick to plywood.
You can grind your own bullnose, but It would be an all day job. Use some nice oak strips like the store suggested.
12x12 would work best with eighth inch to quarter inch depending on the consistency of the tile. If it is irregular, then go with quarter. If the sizes are consistent, then eighth.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
If you have access to a wet saw that will cut a bevel (45) MK770 is one you could back bevel the countertop tiles and make some 1 1/2 edge pieces and back bevel those. In effect a mitered edge. If you are very careful and bevel the factory edge so that you leave the top 1/16" to 1/32" of the factory edge in place and grout the resulting edge it will look very nice.
Bing
I did a tile countertop this summer on a quickie renovation. It turned out really nice. Use the backerboard for sure. I used 1x4 oak with a rounded edge for for nosing, which really brought the whole thing together. Cutting tile for the nosing won't be worth the effect, in my opinion. Stain and seal the oak before installing it. Cut 'em to fit, stain, seal. Use 2-3 coats of tile sealer as well. Good luck!
My brother used porcelain tiles for a recent major renovation project for a full bath as well as adding another full bath.
Anyhoo....there were tile edges that needed to be smoothed/polished and he paid to have this done at the supplier.
Porcelain tiles costs more but evidently if there has to be any edge polishing, etc. it is a better choice then ceramic.
They do cost more.
Don't use ply, Use 1x6 w/¼" spacing between and a piece of felt over. . . allows drying and prevents expansion cracking.
As to the edge, for you, probably the miter joint technique mentioned above will be best.
SamT