Replies

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 23, 2003 05:18am | #1

   if you  use matched pine ( 1x6 t&g  with a bead )  and 5/8 ply sheathing, you will have  11/8" (1 3/8")  then you can use a standard  1 1/4" roofing nail... that is our standard detail for exposed rafters..

    i've also done the same using 5/8 T-1-11 witha 4" pattern... but the pine looks better..

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   
1. 
   kostello | Nov 25, 2003 01:23am | #2

   what are those little metal clips in the middle of the space between the rafters on the osb?

   oh and what are they for?

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 25, 2003 01:46am | #3

   they're "little metal clips"...

   seriously.. called plywood clips.. come in 1/2" &  5/8" for 1/2" ply & 5/8" ply.... they act as stiffeners  on unblocked plywood  edges between the rafters.. also helps to keep the two sheets from warping out of plane..

    we use them anytime our spans are 16" or greater...

   and.... that's not OSB, it's 5/8 plyMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Lateapex911 | Nov 25, 2003 06:21am | #4

   Hey Mike-  nice stuff (as usual!). quick question. Are those pics from the same job? If so, I've answered my own question, which was, on the third pic, your T & G material stops at the first rafter.  When I've done mine, I've run it to the second rafter to get better overhang support. (When my overhangs, overhang, if you know what I mean!)

   But I see from the underside shot that it looks like you've got support lower, so it wasn't needed. Am I right?Jake Gulick

   [email protected]

   CarriageHouse Design

   Black Rock, CT

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 25, 2003 07:06am | #5

   yes... the fly rafter was hung from the 5/8 ply... the ridge.... and the beam at the bottom.

   here's another view..

   and a link to the thread in QuittinTime  that shows that job from start to finish

   http://quittintime.infopop.cc/ubbthreads/showthreaded.php?Cat=&Board=Gallery&Number=5991&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   Edited 11/24/2003 11:08:43 PM ET by Mike Smith

2. 
   Lateapex911 | Nov 25, 2003 09:42am | #7

   Wow!

   So I opened the thread, took a few minutes to figure out the sequence, then..........2 hours later, I had looked at every pic and word.

   Phew! What a difference! Lot's of great details there.  What was your favorite part of the job? (Not including the final check!!)Jake Gulick

   [email protected]

   CarriageHouse Design

   Black Rock, CT

3. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 25, 2003 01:44pm | #10

   The privacy screen was just a nip ahead of Scott's sliding doorMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   kostello | Nov 25, 2003 10:43am | #8

   sorry about insultiung you on the osb / ply mix up !!!!!LOL

   so the clips are instead of blocking then? and just stop the 2 edges from moving independently?

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 25, 2003 01:45pm | #11

   exactly..... those little clips really work wellMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   MikeCallahan | Nov 25, 2003 09:27am | #6

   I like exposed tails too. Here is the detail on my own home. I am indebted to my brother Gene. It is neither simple or cost effective but mighty fine looking though. My roof called for 2x12 DF rafters at 16"OC. For the overhang I wanted 2' centers so with the OK from the engineer I cut the 2x12s at the building line. I think the 2' spacing looks better with exposed tails. I went with 3x8s and every third one lapped on a 2x12 rafter. The others were nailed to a block between the rafters. They had to be 80" long for a 20" overhang. I dropped the birdsmouth an inch to accommadate some old redwood barnwood and the CDX skined over the top of the whole thing.

   Each rough sawn tail had a plumb cut and a plancher with a 1/2" champher on the edge. The frieze block was let in to the tails about 1/8". I used a jig to set up the mortise for the block so I could use a router to hog it out. Some day I will post some photos.

   Mike Callahan

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 25, 2003 01:43pm | #9

   those would be nice to see.. sounds like nice detailingMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   ckearns | Nov 25, 2003 04:16pm | #12

   Mike,

   Thanks for the reply. Your right. It does sound like it would look nice. However, it would be too labor intensive for my application. I am attempting to create a more authentic look to an english cottage style house without changing my building costs. Most houses here in North Carolina are built with a conventional boxing detail utilizing a fascia board, flat soffit and a freeze board, with crown between the freeze and the soffit.

   Chris 

1. 
   CombatRescue | Nov 25, 2003 04:34pm | #13

   For my detached garage, I'm using 3/8 in beadboard plywood with two sheets of 1/2 sheathing on top on my overhangs.  I don't think it adds any more labor that doing soffits.  All you have to do is cut a "notch" in each rafter tail, cut some plywood, and lay it all in.  It's very quick and easy and looks great.  IMO, it's a lot more labor intensive to add the beadboard after and fit it between the rafters.

   Good luck,

   Andy

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Nov 25, 2003 08:54pm | #14

   andy we don't add the beadboard after.. we notch the rafters just as you're doing for your 3/8 ply..

    the matched pine ( beadboard) is preprimed and nailed off before teh sheathing goes on topMike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   CombatRescue | Nov 26, 2003 02:45am | #16

   Yeah, that's the way I've done it.  It's easy, works well, and looks great!

2. 
   ckearns | Nov 26, 2003 05:09am | #17

   The doubling up of OSB is a good idea. I am having the house framed right now so I had to decide quickly. I opted for the 5/8" T-111 with 4" centers under a single course of OSB. However, I fear the painters will have trouble with the rough texture on the T-111 and I will hear about it. Your method would probably have been better in the long run.

   My next obstacle is the method of soffit venting. My plan was to install 2 x 6 blocks between each rafter tail. Each block would have two 3" holes for pop in aluminum circular vents. However, my framer said it would take forever to drill that many holes and his hole saw was getting hung up on the first one. The wood was probably a bit wet and the drill motor was hot, etc...

   I decided to order 5/4 x 6 yellow pine and hope he has better luck with that material. We will find out tomorrow. I told him to drill a row of holes 8" o.c. and then cut each block as needed. Any other suggestions out there?

1. 
   CombatRescue | Nov 26, 2003 06:21am | #18

   Chris,

   I'm looking at the same venting issue now as well.  I've decided to use a cor-a-vent product.  Check it out here:

   http://www.cor-a-vent.com/s400.htm

   If you click on this link on that page: http://www.cor-a-vent.com/ZIPS/S400guide.pdf and go to page 3, they have a detail for an open rafter vent.  It's easier than cutting holes, but I don't know how quickly you could get the stuff.

   Good luck,

   Andy

   Edited 11/25/2003 10:24:40 PM ET by Andy

2. 
   ckearns | Nov 26, 2003 05:11pm | #22

   Andy,

   This would have been perfect if I had thought ot order the stuff in time. I'll know next timje. I like the product but have not used it recently and, therefore, did not think of it in this application.

   Chris

3. 
   Timuhler | Nov 26, 2003 05:32pm | #23

   Where we frame, nearly all eaves are open.  On the job I'm currently framing, I decided to try http://www.cor-a-vent.com/RS-400.htm We ususally use 2x6 birdblocks with 4 2" holes in them and alternate a solid block in one rafter bay, vented next.  In cathedral ceilings, we vent every rafter bay.

   So far these Raft-a-vent strips from Cor-a-Vent are working out really well.  They are hardly noticeable up in the eaves.  If I get a chance, I'll take a picture today.

4. 
   Lateapex911 | Nov 26, 2003 06:30am | #19

   Well, here's how I did it recently. I sketched it quickly, and apologise for the roughness. Hope you can make sense out of it.

   I know there are other methods, but I like this because:

   it has about 12 square inces of vent space.

   it has a vent that really disappears in the shadow lines.

   it's easy...no 2x blocking, no drilling, easier painting of the 1x material.

   it doesn't soak up too much in the way of 'extra' materials.

   Jake Gulick

   [email protected]

   CarriageHouse Design

   Black Rock, CT

   Edited 11/25/2003 10:39:31 PM ET by LATEAPEX911

   
5. 
   Lateapex911 | Nov 26, 2003 06:42am | #20

   Let's try that again in a sane size...Jake Gulick

   [email protected]

   CarriageHouse Design

   Black Rock, CT

   
6. 
   ckearns | Nov 26, 2003 05:09pm | #21

   Jake,

   Thanks for the drawing. I like the CobraVent product too. I don't think I could get it fast enough. It's been awhile since I used it and did not think of it in this application.

   chris

3. 
   EricPaulson | Nov 26, 2003 01:42am | #15

   Dog, that sounds real nice..........gotta post some pics though, I'd love to see the work.

   Eric