Replies

1. 
   Shep | May 29, 2007 01:22am | #1

   I like to install the stool flush with the jamb. Actually, I usually skip the extension jamb on the bottom, and fit a larger stool so it's all one piece. You could easily make one out of a 5/4x6" or 8". My regular yard carries a 5/4x6 ogee stool, which I like to use.

   Don't  the side and head jambs fit into rabbets in the side of the windows? Or is that just on the casements? Anyway, it's much easier to leave a reveal than to make everything perfectly flush. And it's unlikely for everything to stay flush.

   If you're unsure, your best bet is to tack a few pieces of trim up, trying out your reveals. Pick the one that works, and looks good.

1. 
   calvin | May 29, 2007 01:44am | #2

   Like shep mentions, the Andersen jamb extensions with the rabbit pretty much fit as is-with a reveal.  Haven't used them in a couple years but there was an offset on the backside that you could drive a screw through, on a bit of an angle, to fasten it to the window jamb.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   Sunburst | May 29, 2007 02:24am | #3

   A few of the windows are casements and they do have rabbets, but most of them are double hungs without. I like the idea of leaving a reveal, but do you screw all the way through and into the window jamb? After the trim reveal there isn't much room left for a screw. Shimming all of this and nailing from the side just seems like a bitch.

1. 
   Shep | May 29, 2007 02:28am | #4

   The DH windows should work just fine in a standard thickness wall- 4-1/2"

   If you have thicker walls, I find it easier ( and cheaper) to make my own extension jambs. I let the jambs lap over the jamb liner a bit, and either nail or screw everything together.

2. 
   calvin | May 29, 2007 03:09am | #5

   If there's an offset on the backside of the ext. jambs, the screw goes through there and into the window jamb.Who knows, might be another good idea abandoned.  Then again, I could be having a dumb attack and it's on another brand.

   You could put all the pcs of the ext together, slip into the rabbit and run those screws.  Nothing shows,  locked firmly into the unit.

   If the jamb ext. are plain, you could still screw them with trim screws-if the 2-1/4 trim screw would be long enough.  The rabbit's register the ext. and stop any potential draft.  Still, nice to lock those pcs together.

   I wish I could be of more help, haven't had the pleasure of installing and triming andersens in a while.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   IdahoDon | May 29, 2007 04:04am | #6

   One piece jamb extensions always look much better to my eye than one with an extra reveal where it's obviously not a design idea.  Same goes for stool.  It's not hard to glue on a jamb extension with no reveal, but almost always requires a trip through the planer and sanding to even things up, then there's the issue of matching new wood with what the factory used.

   Best of luck

    

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

3. 
   Geoffrey | May 29, 2007 07:24am | #7

   Sunburst,

   You don't say what the wall thickness is or the extension depth, so  I'm guessing you're adding to the standard D/H (4 1/2" jamb depth) to accomodate a 6 9/16" wall.

   I usually just run a couple of galv. finish nails of the appropriate length (2 1/2"- 3"), throught the extension into the jamb, pre-drilling of course, or you can try using your trim gun...... your choice as to whether you flush or step-back(I prefer to step back),  whichever looks best to the customer, but I usually do as Shep said on the stool, use a single piece of stool set to the jamb, looks much cleaner. Make sure to run your stool past the trim by 3/4" on each side and about an 1" - 1 1/4" bold of the trim(in front of the trim).

   FYI, that style of trim you refer to is called "butt and pass"

                                                                                           Geoff

    

    

4. 
   hammer1 | May 29, 2007 01:50pm | #8

   You have to be careful screwing into the window. If your screws are too long or driven too deep, they may screw the window shut or effect it's operation. I do a lot of Andersons. We typically build 6" walls which makes for an extension jamb that is 2 1/4" - 2 3/8". A 2 1/2" screw, countersunk, is just about right. For wider extensions, I shim behind and face nail.

   I install my extension jambs as a unit, not individual pieces. This gives the frame strength on it's own and doesn't require too many fasteners. I seldom use their extensions, preferring to make my own to match job conditions. I can choose the species, control the straightness of the stock and it's often less expensive. I don't cut a tongue on the jamb, which allows more leeway in the installation. Since it's attached to the window jamb, you don't get shrinkage where they join. If you shim and nail, you may want a tongue or a gap may develop.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match