Exterior and Interior Roof insulation detail- input requested
Looking for some input here on insulating the roof deck (in and out).
Climate zone 3A Hot Humid
Sealed/conditioned attic
Planning to build the roof assembly like this (out to in):
– Metal shingle roof
– ZIP sheathing
– 2″ XPS foam board
– ZIP sheathing on roof rafters
– 2-3″ Closed cell spray foam
– Mineral wool or fiberglass batts (optional)
Questions:
1) Does the assembly make sense? I’ve seen a lot of roof retails (here, Building Science Corp, and elsewhere) but none directly address the combination of Closed Cell foam + exterior insulation.
2) Code call for R36 batt insulation or R30 if using continuous insulation. The spray foam installers with whom I’ve spoken all have quoted only doing ~2-1/2″ closed cell foam (which is at most R18 or so). When I’ve asked how they meet the code they just shrug. Is adding batt insulation the best way to beef up the R-value?
Thanks
Ben
Replies
No this does not make sense. Two layers of zip and xps and closed cell foam is too many layers of things that do not diffuse vapor.
Personally probably put zip panels on my roof rafters, xps foam on top of the zip, then I’d screw 2x4 purlins to attach the metal roof to.
if you go with foam go with open cell and fill the rest of the cavity with batt insulation
Thanks Primitive. I understand the vapor concern; that's what I've been trying to wrap my head around. The ZIP documentation says it is not a vapor barrier- just air/water. So this seems to indicate the XPS foam and the Closed Cell foam are the true vapor barriers.
Thinking through this for my climate zone (3A-Hot/Humind) the greatest vapor concern will be in the warm-humid months with warm-moist air trying to push its way into the unvented attic. The risk then would seem to be water/moisture/vapor penetrating the first layer of zip, the XPS, the second layer of zip, and then condensing against the back side of the CC foam. Is that how you see it?
We've all seen Matt Risinger's house with the assembly I mentioned only with mineral wool instead of foam. I've also done a bit more reading on the Building Science website and found one article by Lstuberik that seemed to indicate this assembly would work (https://buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi083-mea-culpa-roofs) but he does mention that should water get into the space it would be bad and this was the only information I found directly addressing my planned assembly.
Regarding the vented roof deck, I have gone around and around about that. As I'm planning metal shingles I think I would need a second nail base regardless which would go on top of the furring strips/purlins and then I'll have to deal with the venting somehow our the fascia...more thinking on this one.
Thanks for the input and the additional homework.
I found this in some saved browser tabs (forgot I had it). It is the energy.gov guide on insulting roofs. This guide specifies Open Cell foam under the roof.
https://basc.pnnl.gov/resource-guides/above-deck-rigid-foam-insulation-existing-roofs#edit-group-scope
if you go with the metal roof, be sure all the components are rated for the higher temperatures the metal roof will have from the sun (not saying that as well as I'd like)
bottom line, the metal roof will probably be hotter than conventional asphalt shingles and anything under it will need to be able to take the "heat"
good luck
Thanks. Understand. The Zip OSB will be fine underneath.
And I did find this informative article about XPS foam that includes a discussion on dealing with heat on the roof: https://www.roofingcontractor.com/articles/86305-xps-design-considerations-for-extruded-polystyrene-roof-insulation
Your proposed roof assembly for a hot and humid climate (Climate Zone 3A) with a sealed attic is well-considered. The metal shingle roof, ZIP sheathing, XPS foam board, ZIP sheathing on roof rafters, and closed-cell spray foam collectively create a robust thermal and moisture barrier. The optional addition of mineral wool or fiberglass batts enhances insulation. Ensure meticulous installation, paying attention to sealing, moisture control, and ventilation. Consulting with a local building professional is advisable to tailor the design to specific climate nuances and ensure compliance with local building codes.