exterior door non-standard jamb depth
Hello. I want to put in an exterior door. I have 3/4″ tongue and groove sheathing, 2×4 framing, and I am planning to put 1/2″ sheetrock in the room that the door leads into, so if I’m right I’d need a 3/4″ + 3 1/2″ + 1/2″ + 1/16″ = 4 13/16″ jamb, not a standard 4 9/16″ jamb.
How would you go about putting in the door?
use 1/4 sheetrock in the room (don’t know if that is ok to do or not)? maybe I could taper it out into 1/2″
cut the sheathing out in the door area and replace with 1/2″ plywood?
order a door with a 4 13/16 jamb depth? I like this idea the most but does anybody know where I could find one?
or something else
thanks a lot for the help
Jeff
Replies
Seems to me that all you need to do is to add a 1/4" layer on the inside, behind the trim, presumably finished the same as the jamb proper. You can either make it flush with the jamb or have a slight "reveal", depending on your preferece for appearance.
Any decent lumberyard has a good door supplier who could order a jamb with an odd depth.
If you look you can probably find deeper hinges.
Jeff
Simplify.
Extend the jamb. Cut the extension the thickness necessary and apply to either side of the jamb . I'd set the Jamb first, figure and cut the extension after it's set. No wall or covering is perfect.
You always keep a reveal on a jamb extension, so the hinges won't be a problem. With that dinky an extension, the door should fully open if you extend to the interior. If the casing is real thick, it won't lay flat against the wall anyway.
If you extend the exterior, use Azek or at least seal up the extension all sides/ends so it don't rot. I order the ext. casings loose for this and other reasons.
This is probably a case where the big box off the shelf components fail the consumer/DIYer. As Mongo pointed out... the best route is to visit a building supplier and order a door to fit your wall. It's that simple. By the way, you will most likely get a better product. And another hint: order ball bearing hinges for your new door. They usually cost just about 5 bucks more per hinge and work so much better.
Nope, not me...
sapwood wrote:
As Mongo pointed out... the best route is to visit a building supplier and order a door to fit your wall.
I think you might have been referring to BossHog.
What Big Cal wrote...
I do what Calvin recommended.
Here's a photo of the interior trim of my front door.
The door, jamb, and jamb extension are mahogany. The door casing is painted poplar. Had I tried to attach the jamb extension flush with the jamb, I'd have run in to the same problem as you: the hinge barrels get in the way.
So I slid my jamb extension outwards to create a 1/2" reveal of the existing jamb. That allowed the 3/4" thick mahogany jamb extension to clear the hinge barrels. The painted door casing is set with a reveal as well, it's set about 3/16" back from the edge of the mahogany jamb extension.
Reveals and shadowlines are your friend. They create visual interest and can prevent flush butt joints from telegraphing through a finish.
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I wouldn't hesitate for a moment. Just add the strip.