Replies

1. 
   RJCarney | Oct 07, 2006 06:51pm | #1

   Make sure you let your customer know that no matter what you do, exterior full width treads will cup.  I have tried everything, but what works the best to minimize cupping is to kerf the backside using a round nose bit ( I think I got that tip from miterclamp Jim), because the rounded bottom formed by the bit puts less stress on the wood, as far as eventually cracking through.

   Also, dry material, and prepaint with Ben Moore Urethanized Alkyd porch & deck paint, install with counter bored screws, plug screw holes, paint one or two more coats, add sand additive to top coat.

   Ideally, I would try to talk him into 2  2x6's with a space between and at riser, if there is a place to drain under stair.

    

   Good Luck,

    

   RJC

1. 
   theslateman | Oct 07, 2006 06:56pm | #2

   I wanted to use 1" Ipe 6" wide for just the reasons you gave. She was adamant she wanted one piece treads.

   Thanks for the tip about the round tip bit-I wouldn't have thought of that.  How about spacing and depth?

   Thanks again.

1. 
   RJCarney | Oct 07, 2006 07:05pm | #3

   Also, I forgot to mention that on my next attempt, I am going to try redwood.  Redwood is supposed to be the most dimensionally stable.

   I used a 3/8" roundnose, 3/8" deep, making 4 grooves equally spaced.

   Also, watch out for the size of the radius on the edge roundover, I think there is a code for that - too big and it can really be too slippery.

    

   RJC

2. 
   davidmeiland | Oct 07, 2006 09:36pm | #4

   Walter, I have done many exterior stairs using 5/4 x 12" VG doug fir treads. They work really well when oil-primed all sides and installed with stainless screws and plugs. I know, I know, it's not cheap... I probably pay close to $10/LF for the material (very nice tight stuff) but they do not cup and the nosing is already there. Be sure to cut your stringers so that the treads have a slight pitch and will shed water.

1. 
   theslateman | Oct 07, 2006 10:17pm | #5

   David,

   We were able to buy 2 by stock which wasn't milled as treads-we're in Maine so product isn't as easy to come by.

   We're locked in to making these into treads that hopefully won't warp or cup too much.

   Thanks for your response.

   Walter

1. 
   IdahoDon | Oct 08, 2006 06:33am | #6

   A good source of doug fir for projects such as yours, other than going the vg route,  is structrual-select grade framing lumber.  It often has very good grain.  We pick out the better boards for use later as finish material once the moisture content has dropped.

   Cheers 

   Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.

2. 
   Piffin | Oct 08, 2006 02:20pm | #7

   Viking in Belfast has a good stock supply of DF to choose from. I was looking it ove yesterday decidingwhether to use DF or red cedar for some outdoor seats. Paint or seal it real well with oil first and you have half a chance. The weather is just as adamant as she is about what it wants, and you are caught in the middle 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   theslateman | Oct 08, 2006 03:07pm | #8

   Thats where I bought this stock on Thursday. I buy all my wooden gutter from them,as well as a lot of other products.

   They are only a half hour from me going the back way. They have a place on Vinalhaven when I work out there and need something.

   I have the stock,but more concerned with ways to keep it from cupping.

1. 
   Piffin | Oct 08, 2006 03:51pm | #9

   Paint and prayer 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   davidmeiland | Oct 08, 2006 04:04pm | #10

   The best way to keep it from cupping is to glue it up from narrower pieces, maybe (3) 4" pieces to get your 12". You can "rip reverse" pieces of the same board to improve the situation.... rip the board in thirds, turn the middle piece upside down, and glue it all back together. By the time they pay you to do that you could have bought VG.

3. 
   Piffin | Oct 08, 2006 04:59pm | #11

   I just had a brain flash!he ould coat all ssix sides with epoxy before installing.
   Wondering if this is to be a lear coat finish or painted 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   theslateman | Oct 08, 2006 05:08pm | #13

   Oil base paint,both primer and top coats

5. 
   junkhound | Oct 08, 2006 05:41pm | #14

   Inspect DF very closely by color for any hint of sapwood vs. heatwood.

   15 years max for sapwood outdoors, no matter how painted.  Hae some edges rotted even soaked in penta 20 years ago.

6. 
   theslateman | Oct 08, 2006 05:07pm | #12

   David,

   Yes I thought about your technique,but it seemed labor intensive.

   The stock we were able to obtain is flat sawn,not quarter-so I thought kerfing might help.

   These will be well painted on all sides,but still concerned about cupping. Whats your take on bottom kerfing,knowing what the stock is that I've got?

   Thanks   Walter

7. 
   BillHartmann | Oct 09, 2006 12:19am | #15

   If you are going to rip and reglue then make it QS.Cut it into 1 1/2" strips and rotate 90 before gluing.Might loose too much in the saw dust (not to mention time).But you will end up with fairly good QS.