Exterior window trims with Pocket Screws

I asked a carpenter buddy who came to work with me on a job if he’d ever thought of using pocket hole joinery to build exterior window and door trims on the ground, then nailing ’em in place as a unit. (I think I might have asked here if anybody’d done it and some do maybe.)
He said SURE!
We were careful when we installed multiple windows in a unit to get a uniform distance btw them and level and plumb–all in plane.
Then we measured outside dimensions of all of ’em, added a 1/16 each way for a caulk gap (I would have liked to go a little bigger for caulk and fudge factor but it worked great with a 1/16th) built all the casing units on the ground and put every one up without one mistake or problem.
Even the 6 windows in this front wall went without a hitch.
These casings are 2x spf and we used 3″ Fastap Deck screws and glued with Titebond III.
The other thing we were able to do is put a vertical channel on the inside of the unit for drainage next to the window frame (these have a hollow behind the frame) and we routed a 1/4″ drip edge on the bottom of the unit, then primed the whole thing in and out b4 putting them up.
When we put them in place, I had a handful of laminate samples as shims to center it or get a nice reveal for the caulk line around the window frame.
Replies
Mike Slogatt that travels and conducts seminars with the Katz Roadshow gave a recent presentation on exactly the same subject using some intricate trims of wood and pvc. His primary point being the time and effort saving.
I've done it b/4 and am doing it now on an interior. Admittedly you need to warrant the set up time v. how many units assembled. Similar to any jig made up for time saving. One unit probably not-several..........sure thing.
Assembled to themselves is certainly stronger.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Aha!
I'd forgotten. I described the method to the Pella salesman and he showed me a PCV trim assembled with pocket screws, at their factory, for the window you ordered, in about 5 different styles.
IIRC it added 175$ to the cost of the window-like say a 3'0 x 4'0.
I have done it, too. Great timesaver, esp. on 2nd story windows. Makes it obviously SILLY to case ext. windows piece-by-piece.
Most of my windows are ordered from the factory with the exterior casing I'm after, and with extended and thickened sills because I'm usually matching 19th century windows, So I've only done it on exterior casings a few times...usually site-made pre-hung doors, but nearly if not all of my interior casings are done that way.
Most recent examples from this summer's project:
Steve
Back when I was working in a small production circumstance (40-50 homes per year), we had a fab shop in three of the garages, under the offices.
We were working with Azek, and assembling on site, and all the pieces were formed, and dedicated by #. (Unit 54, Window #12....)
We switched to assembling the exterior window trim using a Kreg pocket screw machine. It worked fine...but transporting the large pieces, already assembled, proved to be challenging due to the wahoo-whaoo-bendy of the Azek. The smaller pieces transported easier.
Main thing is tho, your flashing must be done correctly.
Matt Garcia 1986-2008 22 yo Fairfield City Council Member, shot 09/01/08 RIP