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I need to replace some rotting fascia boards on a mid 60’s ranchburger in south Texas. I have heard several opinions on the best wood species to use (yellow pine, white wood, and treated pine). The existing siding is cedar board and batten. If I was replacing all the fascia boards I might use Hardi Trim, but I really don’t like the fact that the nail heads don’t set deep enough, if at all.
Any suggestions or experiences with the above species or others would be appreciated.
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Scott, I don't have any experience using SYP untreated as trim, but up here in New England it seems more expensive homes have red cedar trim, the next step down is eastern white pine pre-primed. Finger jointed pine, not sure of the species (ponderosa?) doesn't hold up as well as the other two. No experience with Hardi, either. Best trim is probably cedar, pre-primed with Alkyd on all surfaces. And make sure you have a drip edge on the roof.
Mike
*Scott, Yellow pine (long-leaf) would work well as would Mike's suggestion of cedar. Also true white pine holds up well, but stay away from whitewood. At least what is sold around here as white wood is S-P-F, spruce, ponderosa or lodgepole pine and grand fir. Does not hold up too well exposed to the weather. Another choice would be redwood. Very stable and paints well. If you are painting, try locating the finger-jointed construction grade. No knots, clean straight runs, all in all a nice wood to work with.walk good
*An outside-the-box idea: I replaced the fascia boards on my gabled ranch that wouldn't hold a screw, then had a sheet metal shop make metal trim out of something called Color-Lok that holds paint amazingly well. I had it made like an "L", long leg 7", short leg 3/4", with a 1/4" flip on the bottom leg to direct rain down. It slipped under the drip edge, then i used truss head screws to attach it to the fascia board through pre-drilled holes. I painted it four years ago with latex (while on the ground) and it looks perfect still w/o a bit of peeling or rust. The wider metal fascia also looks more in scale with the house than 2x6's. Sheet metal comes in 10' x 10' pieces, so i designed the strips to fit in that size w/o waste. As i recall my cost was $256 for the metal work, materials and labor, for a 36' x 52'.For my next house (hip roof), i designed a combination drip edge and fascia. There was only air where i would have nailed a conventional drip edge, so i had a 4" flap bent at the correct roof pitch, which slips under the shingles and attaches at the fascia board, like the first job.
*Scott.. we use GP PrimeTrim... SS. nails... loves paint... more rot resistant than redwood..we don't set the nails...b but hey ,whadda i no ?
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I need to replace some rotting fascia boards on a mid 60's ranchburger in south Texas. I have heard several opinions on the best wood species to use (yellow pine, white wood, and treated pine). The existing siding is cedar board and batten. If I was replacing all the fascia boards I might use Hardi Trim, but I really don't like the fact that the nail heads don't set deep enough, if at all.
Any suggestions or experiences with the above species or others would be appreciated.