Replies

1. 
   e2canoe | Aug 16, 2004 02:21am | #1

   I'm no expert but isn't MDF manufactured by pressing many, many layers of fiber and, as such, is very much subject to delamination when edge nailed/screwed/biscuited/etc?

2. 
   Norse | Aug 16, 2004 02:25am | #2

   OK, I'll bite..... why in the world are you using MDF for face frames? Are you then going to screw cabinet doors to thin MDF?

   Usually face frames are hard wood......

   Norse

1. 
   MikeRyan | Aug 16, 2004 02:41am | #3

   Good Point.   I'm using 3/4" MDF.  Mostly it is to give the bookshelf a bolder appearance.  Haven't tried doors yet.  I would use hardwood, but it's for a painted built in and I was trying to economize.

1. 
   IMERC | Aug 16, 2004 02:49am | #4

   for a painted built in and I was trying to economize...

   Even if you have to do them several times over... Use poplar.. Looks good... Last a long time...

   look what you already haven'y got done and the splits are only a hint of what's to come....

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....                                                                   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

2. 
   DougU | Aug 16, 2004 02:54am | #5

   Mike

   Sometimes trying to economize does not work.

   Poplar is cheap enough, use the mdf for the carcasses, and shelves but use wood for the edge and for face frame. Hell on a whole kitchen you wouldn't have $100 in poplar!

   If your just putting it on the shelves for a thicker look you cant be talking about a few bucks worth of poplar.

   Doug

1. 
   MikeRyan | Aug 16, 2004 02:59am | #6

   See, ask people who know what he hell they are doing and it will pay off in the end.  Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.  Now if I could only figure out how to work this table saw!

1. 
   e2canoe | Aug 16, 2004 04:31am | #7

   >> Now if I could only figure out how to work this table saw!

   Push wood towards shiny, sharp spinning thing.  Do not push fingers or hand through though.

   P.S. I cut a bunch of MDF outside today and my previously green car is now orangey brown.  Gawd that dust goes EVRYWHERE.

2. 
   DougU | Aug 16, 2004 04:59am | #8

    Gawd that dust goes EVRYWHERE.

   especially down your lungs!

3. 
   davidmeiland | Aug 16, 2004 05:01am | #9

   You could make frames out of MDF using dowel joints, but as everyone else is saying, it's the wrong material. Poplar, alder, fir.... perfect for faceframes with pocket screws.

4. 
   CapnMac | Aug 16, 2004 07:12pm | #10

   The "end grain" keeps splitting

   Like everyone else, I think mdf is bad for PG faceframes.

   The "cure" for the splitting is to use a screw specifically for mdf, and to predrill pilot holes to the correct size for the screw.  The best mdf (read really espensive & hard to find) look like a mutant SR screw--but aren't.  Lower rpm driving the screws seems to work better.

   Come to think of it, I can't remember seeing an mdf pocket screw . . .

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
5. 
   PhillGiles | Aug 16, 2004 07:38pm | #11

   1) MDF doesn't seem to like mechanical fasteners, that's why everything is morticed/dadoed. If you must, use glue, like Weldbond or a good 2-part adhesive.

   2) good face-frame material for MDF carcasses is maple.

   .

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

1. 
   jackplane | Aug 16, 2004 08:13pm | #12

   On the whole, I agree with everyone here. But since I work with way more mdf than I'd like to, there is an el cheapo solution:

      Mill a V groove or cove profile into the edge of the mdf, glue in matching hardwood and attach your hinges to that. It works.

   Edited 8/16/2004 3:34 pm ET by JACKPLANE