Did I see a discussion not long ago about using fake stone for the interior facade of a fireplace? I can’t find it…
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell’em “Certainly, I can!” Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Did I see a discussion not long ago about using fake stone for the interior facade of a fireplace? I can’t find it…
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell’em “Certainly, I can!” Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Could a building code update make your go-to materials obsolete?
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Replies
I hope so, I'm ready to do one soon.
I've done a few. One quick tip. Use a wet saw. They cut like butter.
Those cultured stones are'nt perfect. Some dressing up will make them fit a lot tighter.
mav, when you write "wet saw" you mean tile cutter?
And sorry, what do you mean by "dressing up"? Sawing them to make them fit better? I am using the slate-type which basically has horizontal lines.
Wet saw/tile cutter, same thing almost. some tile cutters dont use a motor and pump. I think you know what I mean.
Most of the cultured stone I've used does'nt come out of the mold very clean. A lot of "flash" is left on the back side. A wet saw cleans them up nicely. Also good for cutting stones to the wall.
You may have, I seem to remember some talk along those lines.
My preference is to build up the frame and sheet it in Durock (or the like), then apply the cultured stone. Start with the corners first, and work from the top down.
A design note: If you frame in niches in the surround (for log storage, tvs, what have you), you want to consider carefully what materials are used to finish those spaces. My current favorite is to 'stucco' the box interiors. This gives the look of parged over masonry (adding a few of the cut-offs can add to this. Alternately, the c.s. face brick makes a nice touch that suggests of a stone facade on a brick framework.
If you do the chimney too, you flash the box to the roof normally, of course. But it pays to go ahead and run appropriate step flashing, too--if only to get the "look" right (this is particularly true with the c.s. face brick).
I'll pretty much go against everything said. I use a angle grinder and a diamond blade to cut...no water. When working with stacked stones(very tight joints, mortarless look) like the slates, sandstones...etc. I work from the bottom up, so I can bear on the stones below...BUT I work neat, so mortar is not flying willy nilly and mucking up my finished work. I do work the corners first, so I guess I am in agreement on that.
Cement board or plywwod with paper and wire then a scratch coat...either or.
Type S..rich ,good lighting, loud music. Keith