Replies

1. 
   Dinosaur | May 11, 2009 07:56am | #1

   The traditional finish on this type of table is a penetrating stain + bees wax. (And periodic applications of elbow grease, to renew the wax finish.)

   ;-)

   It holds up surprisingly well, even in the face of the worst children and toddlers can do to it. Mine has had everything from wine to finger paint to Windex to hot coffee and soup spilled/smeared on it and it all comes off with a wipe and some warm soapy water. I buff it about once a week or so in the course of normal housecleaning; it needs a fresh coat of wax three times a year.

   Minwax makes everything but the elbow grease; you gotta supply that yourself or get your DW to do so....

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....
   

   

1. 
   dug | May 11, 2009 05:13pm | #2

   Thanks for the reply, this is all a little confusing to me. There is more b.s. in the marketing of wood finishes than you can shake a stick at.

     Really at this point I just want this thing done, but it turned out so well I don't want screw it up now.

     dug

1. 
   Dinosaur | May 11, 2009 09:23pm | #3

   Finishing can be a very technical process, but it doesn't have to be. Basically, if you've got the table stained the colour you want, go get yourself a can of beeswax furniture polish (in paste-wax form) and a handful of soft rags. Put three or four coats of wax on the table, and start using it.

   Clean and re-wax as needed, dictated by your use of the table. The finish will continue to get deeper and richer over time. It's just old-fashioned housekeeping from the pre-Pledge era is all it is....

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

2. 
   Sphere | May 11, 2009 11:24pm | #5

   You can't go wrong with BRI-WAX, I get mine mail order. Last one was from Jamestown Distributers ( boat building supplies) just because I was low and making an order anyway.

   GOOD stuff.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   "If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt

   View Image

2. 
   JMadson | May 11, 2009 09:50pm | #4

   What did the guys over at knots have to say?

   If you want to cut through the cr#p, get a book by Bob Flexner, Understanding Wood Finishes. I took a class of his and he took all of the mystery out of wood finishes and their b.s. advertising. Dino has a good solution for you with the bees wax. This would be the most authentic looking finish for a farm table - it just requires a little higher than normal maintenance.

   IMO, there isn't a finish in the varnish category that would be "wrong". Some will look better than others though. I would avoid shellac on a kitchen table. I would also avoid pure oil finishes, ie. 100% pure tung oil. I have an arts and craft coffee table that I built years ago in my family room. I just used a few coats of tung oil finish (actually a varnish) and then a few coats of finishing wax. Only have to reapply the wax once a year when it's dull. It doesn't look like a built-up finish this way, I can still feel and see the grain of the wood.

    

    

1. 
   dug | May 12, 2009 01:57am | #6

   What did the guys over at knots have to say?

       After more poking around on the net and taking advice from you Dino and some others over at Knots I think I'm gonna go with a wiping varnish and then the wax.

      Now, any suggestions on a specific product.

     Thanks for your time,   dug

1. 
   Sphere | May 12, 2009 02:02am | #7

   I like a mix of Poly, varnish and linseed oil ( boiled)  about a 1/3rd of each..then thin THAT 50/50 with turp or Mineral Spirits. Nice thin coats. Steel wool the wax on and buff off.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   "If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt

   View Image

1. 
   dug | May 12, 2009 03:35am | #9

   ya think I can get a satin finish with this potion?

     dug

1. 
   Sphere | May 12, 2009 03:41am | #10

   Thats what the steel wool does. When ya buff the wax, you'll still have some texture and less gloss than un wooled.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   "If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt

   View Image

2. 
   JMadson | May 12, 2009 02:19am | #8

   I had good luck with Liberon from Rockler.

   http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10856&filter=wax

   It has a good stink though. Takes about a week to dissipate.

   I think Sphere has the right idea on the mix to use. A little lighter on the oil though. Seems to leech out for a couple of days (IMO).