I”m replacing rotted 1x fascia on eaves. Considering 3/4″ exterior plywood ripped down, primed and painted, then covered with aluminum. Width is roughly 9″, doubting that I can find 1×10 stock that’s straight and will stay straight. Will it work?
I should add, that I plan to biscuit join a strip of 1×2 to the bottom edge of the plywood with Titebond III, to hold the fasteners at the bottom edge of the fascia.
Tips for picking the right paintbrush based on paint type, surface, and personal comfort.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
Use 18" pieces of PVC. Straight, inexpensive and fast to install. Takes paint well. We lay a piece of self-sealing flashing under each joint and around each corner. Use poly caulk on the seams.
18" ???
I take it, you mean PVC alone, instead of a subfascia with aluminum over it?
And yes, aluminum would be preformed on a brake.
I'll attach some photos of what I'm working with - this is in conjunction with getting a new shingle roof. You can see the rafter ends are pretty beat up, twisted, cupped, etc.. There was a gutter there, but the existing aluminum didn't cover completely, and left over two inches of exposed wood and there's no drip edge. Existing soffits are aluminum, original plywood soffit under that is delaminating.
One concern, no matter what I go with, is whether I'll be able to get the fascia/subfascia installed without being wavy, given the condition of the rafter ends.
And, no intention of putting gutters back up.
Use 18' pieces of 1 X 10' fascia. I would prefer a sub fascia first though to even out the tails.
If you don't bend the aluminum on a brake this will look like hell.
That's a lot of work with the chance that you may still be left with a wavy finished product. We use Boral trim now instead of pvc or wood products. Spend the time assuring the rafter tail ends are in line. Sister in new tails or rip existing tails to achieve straight fascia framing. Then install boral 1x or 5x4 fascia directly to tails. Nail it off with stainless siding nails, paint and walk away maintenance free.
Agreed - those rafter tails, the way they look, are never going to give me a straight line - use a string line?
Not looking forward to any of this, though - fell off a ladder last fall, feet were only 5' off the ground, landed face first. Just a few scrapes, but really shook me up. I don't have the same ladder confidence anymore.
Appreciate the advice, but paint and maintenance free in the same sentence?
Just had a guy who does aluminum fascia out here for an estimate, didn't get a good feeling. The fascia is going to be almost 10" wide and he wants to face nail it, no nails up through the bottom edge. I can understand face nailing up high, where it'll be hidden by the drip edge, but I'd be worried about waviness and water intrusion. I asked what he would do about a subfascia on the eve end, he said he'd buy 1x boards from home depot and prime them. I was at HD a few days ago and looked at 1x10s - the 1st one I looked at was bowed and twisted, 2nd one was no better. So, they get nailed up, and either the nails pull out of the rafter ends at some point, or the boards split.
Is face nailing the fascia a must on something this wide?
1X 19" huh? Run, run, run. Don't let this guy anywhere near your house. If you want a nice job you're going to have to string line each side, cut off rot and scab on new framing where needed so you can install 2X sub-fascia and get it straight. Wrap the corners with self sealing flashing and install Pvc fascia. Nail it up with stainless steel nail, fill the holes, paint and move on to something else. Use scaffold instead of ladders.
I finally tackled this, got the last board up as the shingle roofers were doing their tearoff. I ended up buying common pine 1x10's at Home Depot. Shuffled through about 60 boards to get six that weren't twisted or excessively bowed. One coat of primer, one coat of exterior latex.
Still need to put the soffits back on, then the plan is to wrap the fascia in either aluminum or steel; any recommendations either way? I'm guessing steel has the advantage when it comes to kinking and oil canning.