Replies

1. 
   captainbil | Mar 02, 2009 01:52am | #1

   Something I did a couple of times is using biscuits and good water proof glue. You just have to use care in measuring, and the large size biscuits, 20's i think. Another slick way is a Miller Dowel system . Uses a stepped drill bit and different size dowels. Woodworkers supply should have them. I used them when i build furniture and they hold real well.

1. 
   blownonfuel | Mar 02, 2009 02:00am | #3

   Thanks CB. I don't have the tools to do the biscuits.

2. 
   Ted W. | Mar 02, 2009 01:54am | #2

   Is this interior or exterior?

   Regular finish nails should do just fine, set and puttied to match the wood. If exterior, use galvanized. Don't use hardened trim nails, they're too skinny for soft woods like pine.

   I like Titebond II for most of my wood gluing. Outside corners you might want to cut and glue 'em up before installing, as oftern done with crown molding.

   ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools - BuildersTools.net
   See my work - TedsCarpentry.com

1. 
   blownonfuel | Mar 02, 2009 02:02am | #4

   Thanks Ted. Exterior. Should I use 6d or 8d galvy finish nails?Never thought about gluing corners before putting the trim up. Good idea. Does the glue work on painted surfaces?

1. 
   Ted W. | Mar 02, 2009 04:14am | #6

   For exterior I would do what redford says. Finish nails for interior, but box (headed) nails for exterior. Try to get the 'Double Dipped' type. If the box doesn't say so, you can tell because the galvanized surface is rough and bumpy. The paint will cover the nail heads.

   Gluing is for outside corners, which I would also nail, but predrill first or it will split for sure.

   "Does the glue work on painted surfaces?"

   With a new cut that shouldn't be an issue. I differ with redford in that I miter cut running joints, It's more work but hides the joint better when it opens. But I agree with him about priming and painting them, no caulk. It's assumed these joints are going to open no matter what, anyway.

   ~ Ted W ~

   Cheap Tools - BuildersTools.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com

   Edited 3/1/2009 8:21 pm by Ted W.

3. 
   RedfordHenry | Mar 02, 2009 03:45am | #5

   If hand nailing, I use an 8P galvy box nail.  I think setting and trying to patch finish nail is an exercise in futility.  Finish nails lack a decent head to keep trim boards from cupping and pulling away.

   Also, I don't miter exterior trim boards, just butt cuts, primed and painted after cutting.  Thus, no need to worry about joints opening up.

1. 
   blownonfuel | Mar 02, 2009 04:47pm | #7

   Thanks guys for all the help.

1. 
   frammer52 | Mar 03, 2009 12:51am | #8

   I thought we covered that already?

1. 
   blownonfuel | Mar 03, 2009 03:53am | #9

   Not for the trim, just the fascia. I forgot to ask about the trim.

1. 
   frammer52 | Mar 03, 2009 03:57am | #10

   Same nails!

2. 
   blownonfuel | Mar 03, 2009 04:53pm | #11

   Full round head for trim? Chair rail trim?

3. 
   frammer52 | Mar 03, 2009 05:59pm | #12

   Thought you were outside still.  Inside I use a 16 guage nailor for everything<G>

4. 
   Sphere | Mar 03, 2009 06:04pm | #13

   I got a sinking feeling he is using pine chair rail for shingle mold.

   As long as its all back primed and either glue/or end primed ( not both) it should last a while. I've taken to Azek for that for permanence.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

   They kill Prophets, for Profits.

    

    

5. 
   frammer52 | Mar 03, 2009 06:09pm | #14

   We has also, but as he lives in Texas, he might get away with the pine.  I have used pine on my shed, but I made sure 6 sides were welll primed first!

6. 
   blownonfuel | Mar 03, 2009 06:15pm | #15

   I am still outside. I am using the chair rail as my trim for the fascia. Solid pine,primed and painted on all sides.

7. 
   frammer52 | Mar 03, 2009 06:34pm | #16

   In that case you could use either the 16 guage if you have a gun or headed galv or stainless nails.  On the outside I have never glued the facia or trim at the corners.  First I am not sure it is a good idea, as the ouside gets considerably more moiture than does the inside.

   Second, trim on the outside is not held to the same standards as inside trim!>G<

8. 
   blownonfuel | Mar 03, 2009 06:44pm | #17

   Are box "headed" nails similar to cut nails?

9. 
   Sphere | Mar 03, 2009 06:52pm | #18

   No, BOX nails have a thinner shank, they prevent splitting better.

   Cut nails are the not round ones, and never galvanized or stainless and totally not what youd want, unless you are nailing into masonry. Even then, they are rather archaic. I use them decoratively or in instances where it is fitting when nailing into my hard as hell logs.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

   They kill Prophets, for Profits.

    

    

10. 
    blownonfuel | Mar 03, 2009 08:07pm | #21

    Thanks Sphere.

11. 
    frammer52 | Mar 03, 2009 07:09pm | #19

    If you are hand nailing, I always use the brand name of Maize nails, they are ring shanked and very thin.  Made for exterior applications.

    Here is a place to buy online.http://www.mcfeelys.com/category.aspx?cat=maze-nails&s_kwcid=maize%20nails|2641568395

     

12. 
    blownonfuel | Mar 03, 2009 08:07pm | #20

    So in reality a full headed nail is just fine for exterior trim. I was thinking I needed a galvy finish nail.

13. 
    frammer52 | Mar 03, 2009 08:49pm | #22

    Yep