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barbarn,
We’ve built alot of log homes and they almost all have atleast one room with a vaulted ceiling covered with car siding{pine} or some other t&g finish(rustic hickory/ash) and installed it almost exclusively with Senco guns(finish). I agree with Ed…a 2″ nail driven diagonally in the flat of the v-groove just above the tongue. The nail hole becomes all but invisable from below so you don’t have to putty the holes. Shooting through the tongue results in splitting, loose boards, frustration, and cursing when the occassional uncounter sunk nail prevents the next board from seating home against the previous piece. Watch your air pressure so you don’t over drive the nails. Try experimenting with some scrap pieces or on an inconspicuous spot to get the feel for the work. Once you get the hang of it…i.e….angle, air pressure, ect. you’ll be amazed at how fast you can apply it. The only other advice I have is to make sure you install it pre-finished. Keep some stain handy to re-stain your cuts before installation. Around here we do the joints on the framing, last piece gets a 45 degree cut, the next piece a double 45 to lap and create a false end match joint that’s chamfered. That way, when the stuff shrinks…and it will…it doesn’t open up an ugly gap.
Good luck! Have fun with it.
Wayne
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I'm remodelling an old house in central Texas. Want to use 1x6 yellow pine mid-match tongue and groove on the ceiling. Any advice on what type of fastener to use? I have a Senco finish nailer but suspect that finish nails may not be strong enough. Also have a Senco coil framing gun. Joists that I'm nailing to are on 24" centers.
*Two inch finish nails. If you're extra worried, or plan on hanging stuff from the T&G, gun-on some construction adhesive as well.
*Driven diagonally into the groove with a trim gun? Or hand-driven?
*I agree with barbarn. I have used my 16 gauge Hitachi finish gun with 2 inch nails. It worked fine. Your Senco I assume is a 15 gauge even better.
*Two inch finish nails shot or hand driven diagonally just behind the tongue should work fine. Face nail around the perimeter which I assume will be covered with a crown molding of some sort. No nail holes to fill, except for the crown molding. I'd install any any necessary blocking between the joists to support ceiling fans, light fixtures, and hanging plants beforehand. I assume that being in Central Texas, the room is air conditioned. I'd let the 1x6 material set (properly stickered of course) in the room to acclimate to the room climate before installing.
*jcallahan has some good points. But nailing behind the tongue? Not sure what that means. The Senco will do you fine. 2" or 2 1/2" , either will hold 1x6 beaded ceiling (or T&G). I don't think you need adhesive. We never use it in these situations.We always nail above the tongue in the "V" groove. Don't shoot through the tongue or the next piece won't suck up. Be sure to check you measurments to the opposing wall to make adjustments for ending up square.Have fun,Ed. Williams
*barbarn,We've built alot of log homes and they almost all have atleast one room with a vaulted ceiling covered with car siding{pine} or some other t&g finish(rustic hickory/ash) and installed it almost exclusively with Senco guns(finish). I agree with Ed...a 2" nail driven diagonally in the flat of the v-groove just above the tongue. The nail hole becomes all but invisable from below so you don't have to putty the holes. Shooting through the tongue results in splitting, loose boards, frustration, and cursing when the occassional uncounter sunk nail prevents the next board from seating home against the previous piece. Watch your air pressure so you don't over drive the nails. Try experimenting with some scrap pieces or on an inconspicuous spot to get the feel for the work. Once you get the hang of it...i.e....angle, air pressure, ect. you'll be amazed at how fast you can apply it. The only other advice I have is to make sure you install it pre-finished. Keep some stain handy to re-stain your cuts before installation. Around here we do the joints on the framing, last piece gets a 45 degree cut, the next piece a double 45 to lap and create a false end match joint that's chamfered. That way, when the stuff shrinks...and it will...it doesn't open up an ugly gap. Good luck! Have fun with it.Wayne
*An old FHB article described an installation like this an strongly suggests that you anticipate dust working down through the seams from above. They din not and wound up with constant dust on the floor and furniture below. Answer seems to be construction paper but don't recall if they installed it above or below the joists.
*wayne,Thanks for the advice. One question. I'm going to paint this ceiling white. Do I still need to prefinish? One side or two?barbarn
*Thanks for the advice. Could you please explain what you mean by "properly stickered"?barbarn
*.....about nailing, Wayne and Ed said what I was trying to say (clear as mud I am sometimes). I would prefinish bfore installing. I recall a job years ago where it wasn't done, the wood shrunk and we were left with ugly bare wood streaks at every joint.