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FASTENING CEDAR POSTS TO CONCRETE

JRT7 | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 6, 2007 05:11am

MY INQUIRY WOULD BE THE BEST WAY TO FASTEN A 6X6 TO A NATURAL SLATE LIKE MATERIAL ON A MORTAR BED ON A CONCRETE SLAB.THE 6X6 IS CEDAR.I WOULD USUALLY FASTEN LIKE A NEWEL POST ON THE INT. EXCEPT EPOXY A 3/4 ALL THREAD INTO THE CONCRETE,DRILL THE BOTTOM OF THE POST OUT AND ANCHOR THE NUT A FEW INCHES ABOVE. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON A QUICKER ANY STURDIER ROUTE?

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  1. Piffin | Apr 06, 2007 07:47am | #1

    First thing - Please be aware that using all caps in a forum is considered SHOUTING and somewhat rude behaviour.

    I use simialr method for post mounts sometimes. Is this interior or exterior that you are speaking of?

     

     

    Welcome to the
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    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
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    1. JRT7 | Apr 12, 2007 04:24am | #2

      i apologize for the CAPITAL LETTERS!didn't mean to mess you up with the work all the time don't set around on the PC ALL THE TIME LINGO! THANKS FOR NO HELP.

      1. Piffin | Apr 12, 2007 04:42am | #3

        No help?I guess you didn't have enough attention span to read the second line.Lose the atitude if you want to find conversation here. Do you drop into a neighborhood bar and demnd that they all drop their doings to help you inn your way right away? Do you stop in at church and demand they all quit singing and listen to you speaak?I was just trying to help you learn how to get along. give you a leg up on things. 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. JRT7 | Apr 12, 2007 05:30am | #4

          well then thanks, i don't type well and i also do not have the time to be sittin around on this computer. but i love fine homebuilding and i make a little time after work and after the 2 kids bedtime to piddle.THANK YOU P.  just learnt how to do that.so any suggestions?

           

          1. Piffin | Apr 12, 2007 06:00am | #5

            Sure thingYou had referencced a newel post whih is normally interior, but also a 6x6 cedar, which for me is normally exterior. So I had asked if this was interior or exterior.It would also be helpful to know more, like is this a half post height like a newel or is it a support post for a porh or a struture above.For a newel, you need to be resisting a lot more lateral pressure so knowing what kind of post is important to the amnswer. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          2. JRT7 | Apr 12, 2007 06:51am | #7

            this is a picket post if you will. i do have one at the top  and bottom of 5 steps. they all would be anchored in the same fashion.4 of my posts will be coming off of the bottom corner  of the steps into approx.20'straight line. thought about maybe a11/2 core bit with  11/4 galv pipe into the bottom of the posts along with epoxy in each. though a cradle for 6x6 would keep it from moisture,i would like to do away with the base it would take to cover the cradle and scribe to the slate.any suggestions?

          3. karp | Apr 12, 2007 05:09pm | #8

            If I'm reading this right, you've got 6x6 newel posts to be fastened to slate on concrete. Your idea of the pipe and epoxy, I think would give you enough strength, eliminating the need for a saddle. The next issue is whether or not this is interior or exterior. I'm going to assume its outside, because if its inside, your done.

            Outside, and I guess your concern would be the post wicking water. Perhaps a piece of synthetic decking ,cut slightly larger than the diameter of the post, placed first with the post on top, would lift the post enough to keep it out of any standing water. Scribing the post to fit would require some method of sealing the end grain, that detail I'm unsure of. Hopefully, someone else can fill in the blanks.

            p.s. if you click on the name of the person responding, it pulls up their profile. Gives # of posts, how long they've been around etc. There are few here with more savvy than Piffen, which is to say, none.

          4. Piffin | Apr 13, 2007 01:55am | #10

            number of posts can just mean that I'm a loud mouth, not that I'm savy.But I'll take a compliment wherever I can find it. Thanks.After asking twice if this is interior or exterior, I gave up on that issue and just replied that "if moisture is an issue"... 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          5. karp | Apr 13, 2007 07:18pm | #11

            No problameo.

            Anyway, if you could help me finish my thoughts on this subject. I'd considered the epoxy coating on the bottom of the posts, but never having done it, I was hesitent to suggest it. You have and it works well? Just regular old epoxy? The reason I ask is, I think I'd like to try it when I scribe a partical core, veneered panel to a kitchen floor. In the past, I've used the iron-on tape, but I'm thinkin' this might work better.

            p.s. even if your blatherin' away,, say,,, half the time, its still a pretty significant # of posts, so, good on ya!

          6. Piffin | Apr 13, 2007 07:30pm | #12

            I don't know if there is such a thing as regular old epoxy. ;)Sometimes you have to add filler and you need to select hardener according to useage location and temperature and working time. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          7. Piffin | Apr 13, 2007 01:45am | #9

            I think theat if moisture is aconcern, after scribing to the slate, you could seal the end grain with the epoxy, let it cure, rough it baack up a bit with sandpaper, and then go for it.
            I have one post in like that on a concrete deck with a 3/4" allthread epoxied into the crete and the post. Getting things clean for a good bond is the key.Slate has oil in the stone., so a lot of tyupical adhesives do not grip it well so there may be other things you can do to make this stronger.
            The core deep enopugh to be bonding to the substrate is one.Another might be to lightly dimple the slate under the post. This would create a type of suction cup with the addition of the epoxy. Maybe not, but it would increase the surface area for adhesion and expose some rougher texture to give tooth to the epoxy. 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          8. Geoffrey | Apr 12, 2007 06:08am | #6

            try bein' a little more respectfull, none of us has untold time to sit here and answer questions for you, BUT, we are here to help each other in the best way we can, everyone contributes and everyone learns something.

                                                                                      

                                                                         

                                                                                   

  2. Batmobile | Aug 18, 2024 01:27pm | #13

    Exterior cedar posts installed onto 12x12 cinder block patio. It will ultimately be a 10x 12 hardtop gazebo.

  3. Batmobile | Aug 18, 2024 01:30pm | #14

    I’m gonna hit the depot and get some anchors. I might end up staking it in the ground. The instructions said it could be done either way. I’ve never built a gazebo before.

  4. Hugos101 | Aug 21, 2024 11:50am | #15

    For fastening a 6x6 cedar post to a natural slate-like material on a mortar bed over a concrete slab, your current approach with the all-thread and epoxy is solid and provides a strong anchor. However, if you're looking for a quicker yet still sturdy alternative, here are a couple of suggestions:

    Post Base Anchors: You could use heavy-duty post base anchors designed for 6x6 posts, like Simpson Strong-Tie or similar products. These are mounted directly into the concrete slab using concrete anchor bolts. They offer strong lateral stability and are quicker to install compared to drilling the post itself. The post is simply set into the anchor and secured with screws or bolts.

    Wedge Anchors or Sleeve Anchors: For a quicker and durable solution, you can drill through the slate and into the concrete slab, then use wedge or sleeve anchors. These can be placed directly through a steel post base that holds the 6x6 cedar post, providing solid stability and preventing movement.

    https://hugosconcrete.com/loveland-concrete-contractor/

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