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I am hanging 6″ reveal lap Hardiplank. I started blind nailing and am a little concerned about the board being a little loose at the reveal edge. Has anyone had this problem? I am not looking forward to face nailing the whole project, but if that is the only solution, so be it!
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Replies
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we've been putting up 6.5 inch fibercement. (5 inch exposure ).. blind nailed.. nice and tight...
*Sean- Just had this problem last fall with Cemplank. The crew had roughly 6-8 courses applied when the brakes screeched. I gave the yard salesman a call to come out and take a look. He did... then called the rep. He showed up a couple days later to look at it and told us that spot nailing the trouble areas was the best solution to keep from seeing the face nails on the entire job. It turned out to be acceptable but not what we were expecting.... looks good from the driveway but I have different opinions about up close. Installation guide says to butt planks lightly or to leave 1/8" for caulk and not to force or "spring" planks together. Butt joints to be on studs and receive face nails. Hope this helps, W.T.
*Sean, we've done some Hardiplank blind nailed w/ 5" reveal and used a trim nailer shooting galvies at a bit of an angle on offensive flappers ( straight on and the nail blows right through). Works pretty well going up gables and on the last course too.
*Sean, I ran into the same problem as you on my first hardieplank installation. I switched to strictly face nailing and have stayed with that ever since, personally I have never seen a blind nailed install that didn't look like crap. I will say however that Bucksnort Billies trim nailer suggestion has me intrigued, and sounds like it might actually work. I may have to try this some time.
*I've done a number of Hardiplank installations and I blind nail. I apply a bead of construction adhesive to each course before applying the next lap. This alleviates the need for face nailing. Little bit of extra cost and effort, but the construction adhesive keeps everything tight and well sealed.
*Sean, I have been almost exclusively hanging Hardi for about a year now. I do about a house a week on average. I blind nail everything except the corners. I hold the nail back from the edge about 3/4" to keep the corner from breaking off. I have even blind nailed 8 1/4 with a 7" reveal(yes,I know it voids the warranty, but this was at the customers request and yes, I did put it in my contract.) Rarely do I have to bottom nail these either. I think the problem may lie with the framing. If the framers aren't crowning studs and throwing out any that have more than 1/4 to 3/8 crown then that will transfer through the sheathing. I have never had a problem with the siding not laying tight on the previous row. Good luck with it. Rich
*There are clips available that hook over the top edge of the previous board, and hook on over the edge of the next higher board. no fasteners required, and they get installed every 4 feet or so. they also help in setting the reveal of the board, which in my case provided about an inch lap, with a 6 inch reveal.
*That clip must be visible....Where are they to see on the net...at Hardie?near the stream blind nailing 6 1/2" with a 5"+ reveal,aj
*We are building a new home. Have in-floor-radiant heating. Will be pouring gyp crete over Pex tubing.We are putting ceramic tile over the gyp crete. Problem: I cannot find any one who will advise me on best way to assure good adhesion of tile. Some kind of sealant on gyp crete first? Just normal procedure to put tile down? H E L P!Thank you very much!!Jerry
*Sean, if you are experiencing loose siding with your blind nailing technique, you probably are making the classic rookie mistake.You are nailing too high up on each course. The tendency for most rookie nailers is to keep the nail high, thus guaranteeing that it won't show. If you read the instructions, they will tell you exactly how low to put the nail. Most readers will not fully understand the significance of that detail. Proper nail location will hold the siding firm to the wall.To understand the details that I am talking about, experiment a little. First nail a piece as high up as you can, maybe 1/2" from the top. Then try to peel it up from the bottom. Notice how loose and floppy it is. Next, nail a piece about 1 3/4" down. Now try to peel it. Notice how much tighter it is.There are two other areas that typically will show a gap: the second course, if you haven't properly tilted the starter course, and the top course if it is ripped and therefore smaller than the typical course. These pieces are out of parallel.There is one additional reason why a course might look sloppy: too much coverage. Some guys adjust courses slightly to meet with sills or other details. This uneven reveal would cause the courses to be out of parallel too. Incidently Hardi plank does not have to be spaced for expansion, nor face nailed at the butt joints.blue
*Had to install Hardiplank down here on the Cape on the beach. Guy I was workinf for thought he was saving money. Even at 41/2" here the siding rattled. Ended up nailing by hand with 5d SS nails. I think the sand absorbed about 25# iof nails. I would use a different product, like clapboard.
*Blue,thanks for the input. Though the job was finished by the time I read your post, what you had to say was pretty much the way my trial & error went. With that 20 degree install behind me, looking forward to a warm spring! Thanks again.
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I am hanging 6" reveal lap Hardiplank. I started blind nailing and am a little concerned about the board being a little loose at the reveal edge. Has anyone had this problem? I am not looking forward to face nailing the whole project, but if that is the only solution, so be it!