Replies

1. 
   DougU | May 05, 2007 03:59am | #1

   Are you going to be covering it right away? If so then staples are fine. If its going to be exposed for awile there are some nails that have a big plastic washer looking thing around them that will give you a better, long lasting hold.You could also use some cleets or lath to nail over the tar paper until you install the cedar - remove as you go.

   I've never used anything other then staples for tar paper on roofs and never had it blow off.

   Doug

2. 
   Matt | May 05, 2007 04:22am | #2

   Use a staple hammer line one of these:
   http://www.doityourself.com/icat/staplegunshammer

   Or, as Doug says, use button cap nails.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/4/2007 9:24 pm ET by Matt

3. 
   Ragnar17 | May 05, 2007 09:16am | #3

   You might consider using Tyvek as opposed to tar paper.  In my opinion, it's a LOT easier to install, especially for someone without a lot of experience.

   It's more money, of course, but I thought I'd throw that out there for you to consider.

   If anyone has a technical reason as to why Tyvek wouldn't be appropriate in IL, then hopefully they'll chime in.

1. 
   Stilletto | May 05, 2007 01:50pm | #4

   Tyvek isn't good under Cedar shingles.

   "If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball."  Patches O'Hoolihan

1. 
   Ragnar17 | May 08, 2007 12:32am | #13

   I've seen Tyvek used quite a bit under cedar shingles; of course, that doesn't mean it's a good idea.  ;)

   What's the theory behind saying this is a bad mix?

1. 
   Stilletto | May 08, 2007 12:39am | #14

   Tannins or something else in the cedar bleeds out and eats the Tyvek. 

   "If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball."  Patches O'Hoolihan

1. 
   Ragnar17 | May 08, 2007 01:16am | #15

   For what it's worth:

   http://www2.dupont.com/Tyvek_Construction/en_US/assets/downloads/Tyvek_Cedar%20FAQ.pdf

   Will cedar break down Tyvek¯ products?

   Tyvek¯ is made from 100% High Density Polyethylene (HDPE) and is highly inert. Cedar does not contain anything that would physically breakdown or degrade Tyvek¯.

2. 
   Ragnar17 | May 08, 2007 01:24am | #16

   The Tyvek webpage does recommend to backprime cedar, but that is a recommendation from the cedar manufacturers for installation over any building paper -- not just Tyvek.

   Sometimes, it's hard for me to differentiate between good building practices, and legal CYA on the part of the manufacturer.  That's why I'm interested in feedback from builders; real world experience counts more in my book than what the lawyers have to say.

3. 
   Stilletto | May 08, 2007 01:43am | #17

   I have seen it first hand,  so I am not going to do it.  I am not sure of the cedar was painted front to back either.  So my results might be skewed.   Can you use the two together?  Sure.  Will it work?  Maybe,  maybe not.  

    THey have churched up their product pretty good in that article.  Almost sounds reasonable.  Too bad it's overpriced.    

   "If you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball."  Patches O'Hoolihan

4. 
   Ragnar17 | May 08, 2007 05:29am | #19

   Stiletto and Geoff,

   Thanks for the real world experience.  I'll definitely keep that in mind when using cedar in the future.

5. 
   Geoffrey | May 08, 2007 02:35am | #18

   The Tyvek webpage does recommend to backprime cedar, but that is a recommendation from the cedar manufacturers for installation over any building paper -- not just Tyvek.

   The back-priming is to prevent moiture from migrating through the siding and pushing the finish (typically paint) off. 

    I too, have seen the degradation of Tyvek from tannin bleed, I don't like the stuff, never have, never will.

                                       Geoff

4. 
   reinvent | May 05, 2007 03:18pm | #5

   What stiletto said is true IF the cedar is not back primed/dipped. This should be done anyway IMO for increased longevity of the siding. I would also recommend either skip sheathing or this:
   http://www.benjaminobdyke.com/html/products/slicker.html
   so the siding can breath and allow moisture to drain away.

   If you are a tool junky then you have an excuse to buy this:
   http://www.toolbarn.com/product/hitachi/NV50AP3/

5. 
   Sphere | May 05, 2007 03:56pm | #6

   I like to use superglue. Lots and lots of itty bitty tubes. Coat the whole wall with some, and throw the felt paper with the wind at your back..and stand back and enjoy!

   Parolee # 40835

6. 
   segundo | May 05, 2007 04:30pm | #7

   slaphammer! the website that matt provided shows a yellow stanley model that is available at walmart.

   they also make plastic washers with small nails already started in the washer that you can then hold up to the paper and nail with a manual type standard hammer, or whatever other beating device is handy. they are called button clips around here, and they have them at lowes and home depot etc.

   the button clips are better if you are not going to cover the paper right away, but i would still start with the slaphammer, two people one to hold and roll out paper the other to slaphammer away. avoid stapling too close to where you are holding paper flat, the staples are little but they hurt.

1. 
   MikeK | May 06, 2007 08:12am | #8

   Thanks guys. I have a staple hammer that I was planning to use. Just wanted to make sure. Cedar shingles are #1 blue label R&R preprimed both sides. They should do fine directly over the tar paper.

1. 
   segundo | May 06, 2007 03:27pm | #9

   i am curious to know why you didn't mention that in your first post?

   it makes it a lot easier for subsequent posters to say, "yes that is the preferred method" instead of actually conducting searches for you to show you what the tool looks like to go along with the typed description and instructions for use.

   most of the people in here don't mind helping (although a few will dog you) but it is bad form to ask questions you already knew the answer to and then after reading all the posts thanks guys just wanted to make sure.

   it is a goal of mine to keep this forum amateur friendly because i think they bring something to the party, however i for one am anti obnoxious idiot, so try not to be one please.

1. 
   segundo | May 06, 2007 04:08pm | #10

   ok just went back and checked, OP said he was gonna use staples, i am the obnoxious idiot yet once again.

   dang it i keep trying to get those obnoxious idiots out of here too.

1. 
   RichBeckman | May 06, 2007 04:58pm | #11

   "dang it i keep trying to get those obnoxious idiots out of here too."LOL! Yeah, you've got a ways to go! I'm still here (among others).

   Rich BeckmanThis signature line intentionally left blank.

7. 
   Nails | May 06, 2007 05:32pm | #12

   Mike......Another way to fasten Tyvek or felt is to staple Masons Twine (nylon string ) on the over laps and butts with one run down the center about 16 in apart..

   I had a client that said it was going to be a while before he could afford to let me finish the job ,which turned out to be 20 months on returning nothing was disturbed from the orginal application. Here in Central Illinois anythi8ng can and usually does happen weather wise.