Replies

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Sep 05, 2004 12:04am | #1

   Powder actuated fasteners should work fine as long as you are shooting the nails into the mortar joints - not the brick itself, and you need to keep at least about 2 or 3" away from the edge.  I just finished a deck with brick column supports, and lattice fastened to 2x4s nailed to the columns - Powder actuated tool (.22 Remington) worked fine.
    

   Matt
2. 
   butch | Sep 05, 2004 12:11am | #2

   I don't know why the tapcons aren't working,

   What size tapcon are you using,

   I've found for  a 2x use a 2-3/4" X 1/4" hex head

   Then make sure you drill the hole at least an 1" deeper than what the

   tapcon will penetrate.  And if attaching to the brick doesn't work try the mortar

   like the other poster said

   edited to add if the 2-3/4" don't work try the next size shorter, I believe either

    2-1/4" or 2-1/2", but when you get the right size screw you can really crank down

   on them, also put some construction adhesive underneath, (the polyurethane)

   I've also found that if your bit (3/16") is wore out,  that  can cause problems

   
   

   ---

   Edited 9/4/2004 5:24 pm ET by butch

3. 
   Piffin | Sep 05, 2004 02:21am | #3

   Surely this wall is more than 4" thick! You should have a 2x10 ripped to wall size to start with for this window buck. I am havinga hard time imagining Tapcons not working but maybe you need some heavier artillery like 3/8" or 1/2" wedge bolts

    

    

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1. 
   jonblakemore | Sep 05, 2004 02:26am | #4

   I've had poor luck with wedge anchors but that is probably dependent on age/quality of the brick. Sleeve anchors do a great job in most cases. 

   Jon Blakemore

4. 
   seeyou | Sep 05, 2004 05:19am | #5

   You probably have checked this already, but make sure you're using the right size drill bit for the tapcons. 1/16" over sized and they won't grab.

5. 
   RW | Sep 05, 2004 06:09am | #6

   I vote for sleeves as well. If you really want to keep them in, pump it full of epoxy before you cinch them down tight. Ten minutes later you'll never get them out. But since you're doing this on window bucks, probably not a necessity. Though I'd bore the face deep enough that your bolts don't interfere with the window.

   "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain

6. 
   Dinosaur | Sep 05, 2004 06:22am | #7

   If your Tapcons aren't working, possibly the brick is too old and friable, so try old-fashioned lead anchors or Mollies. Also use PL Premium adhesive behind the 2x. It won't come off.

   Dinosaur

   'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?

7. 
   4Lorn1 | Sep 05, 2004 07:53am | #8

   n my experience, primarily mounting panels, boxes and conduits, it is best to avoid fastening into the brick faces for a number of reasons. First is that bricks can often contain inclusions that can defy carbide. Getting three holes drilled deep enough for Tapcons and hitting one of these hard spots a half inch short of the depth needed is a recipe for frustration.

   While many have had good luck shooting pins with powder actuated guns I have also seen these pins crack the brick. I have also been told that any cracks can greatly increase damage caused by freeze/thaw cycles. Not a major consideration here in Florida but it does freeze sometimes.

   Bricks are a diverse lot. Modern hard fired bricks can be quite durable but are more likely to have ceramic-like inclusions. Older soft-fired bricks can be problematic. Screw up large enough and I have seen the entire face of a brick fall off. None of the bricks stand up to anchors expanding aggressively. Sometimes it is better to use many smaller and weaker anchors spread out than to use a few stronger anchors that can overstress the brick.

   Less true if you use anchors in the mortar joints this is still a consideration. I worked on a remodel job where the deck had been hung off a few lags run into the mortar joints. This, in time, cracked the surrounding bricks destroying the holding ability of the anchors and a god part of the wall. The carpenter that was called in, an old hand that I have great respect for, used an small angle grinder to remove the mortar around the damaged bricks and also one entire mortar joint the length of the deck.

   This long groove was used to provide room for a length of angle iron that was used to support the desk edge. This was drilled every second mortar vertical mortar joint to allow setting of small lead shields and lags. The joist hangers were welded onto the angle iron. In this configuration the lags were only holding the iron in its slot while the iron transferred the load to the brick wall.

   A few point on Tapcons or similar: Be doubly sure you have the right bit for the anchors used. It pays to buy a new bit. You can save a bit of money by buying an identically sized masonry bit. No need to pay Tapcon's premium price but be absolutely sure to get the right size.

   All of this type of anchor need to have the hole drilled extra deep. It also pays to use a small bit of hose, rubber vacuum line works well, to blow out the hole. This is especially true in harder materials. The hose keeps you from blowing directly into the hole and getting a face full of dust. This also helps with expansion anchors. Failing to get the dust out of the way can weaken expansion anchor installations. Keep the hose in your box with the hammer drill

   IF you have problems getting the Tapcons to seat check your bit. The small masonry bits drill progressively thinner holes as they wear. Look closely at the sides of the carbide insert. On well worn bits you can see a lot of scuffing and a dial caliper will read shy of the diameter needed. You may not notice if you are drilling softer materials where the anchors threads can bull their way in but on harder materials it is important. Don't be shy about tossing out old bits and buying new ones. The extra cost is paid back in time savings and avoiding frustration.

   To get the maximum withdrawal resistance don't overdrive the Tapcons. Once they snug up stop. Any more driving is just stripping the threads cut by the anchor. An extra half turn in softer materials can weaken the anchor by about half according to an engineer who would check our work.

   On soft brick, in this case we were drilling into the face of the bricks per his instructions, he wanted us to keep the heads about an eighth proud when using a drill to drive them and crank them in the remainder with a socket wrench. I must say that it did seem to make for a stronger connection in these tender materials.

   We drilled and tapped a short length of steel tubing and mounted this proud of the nut driver face, about 3/8" proud, with set screws to make sure we stopped in time.

8. 
   calvin | Sep 05, 2004 04:33pm | #9

   You might want to try Drive In anchors if the brick is soft and the mortar joint won't hold a tapcon.  PL Premium with 1/4" drive in anchors long enough to go well into the brick (5" or so).  These drive ins hold well, don't blow out soft brick.  Drive is metal, shaft if plastic.  Hilti has a nice selection.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

1. 
   Richie921 | Sep 05, 2004 06:35pm | #10

   Thanks all, I'm gonna try Tapcons again...new bit...and snog them by hand.  I'll also use the PL adhesive.   I appreciate all the responses.

1. 
   moondance | Sep 05, 2004 08:47pm | #11

   Tapcons are the way to go on these days. I gave away both of my ramsets a few years ago. I have a Milwaukee 3/4" rotary hammer to drill the holes, and I use Tapcons on just about everything fastened to masonry except what has to be bolted for the load.