fastening wood block to ceramic tile
Megunticook
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
What’s the best way to do that? My first attempt was 5-minute epoxy, which held fine until one night it didn’t. Bond with ceramic tile surface failed (although epoxy label claimed it bonds with glass and ceramic).
These are end holders for a shower curtain rod, by the way, so there’s very little stress on them.
My next thought is to fasten them with stainless screws, but I haven’t tried drilling through tile and am also wondering about how well the fasteners will hold into the tile and cement board behind.
Any tips would be welcome–thanks.
Replies
for only a shower curtiain rod?
hollow wall anchors and a masonry bit to drill the tile.
How particular are you? Are you joined at the hip with the curtain rod you now have?
Change to an adjustable or spring loaded rod with the rubber tips. They come in various finishes and colors and when jammed between the tile walls don't fall down. No holes, no mess, no fuss.
Drilling ceramic wall tile is surprisingly easy, and if you go easy it doesn't break the tile. Since the curtain rod usually goes at the corner of the tub surround, there's usually a stud there for the corner, so a long enough screw will hold very well.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
For drilling holes in ceramic, try a ceramic tile bit rather than a masonry bit. Either one will work, but the ceramic tile bit does the job easier. They sell them at the big box, but here's what I'm talking about: http://www.mcfeelys.com/subcat.asp?subcat=2.13.6
-Don
Thanks for the advice. Having trimmed out the home extensively with wood, I wanted to try a wooden curtain rod. I know the adjustable metal ones are easy, but I thought I'd give this a go.I'll see if I can pick up a ceramic tile bit at one of the local yards (I steer pretty clear of the big boxes--for all kinds of reasons, but that's a topic for another thread).So I take it that epoxy just doesn't bond with ceramic tile. . .period.
I have sort of a love-hate relationship with epoxy myself--on some things it is just fine, but on others I vcan't get it to bond either. Maybe the tile had been sealed though, and that (silicone product) would be the reason the epoxy ley go. I don't know how you'd clean thew tile to make it stick, so I agree with the posts telling you to drill holes. Guy I work with had trouble with the bit "skating" so he actually chipped the glaze with a nailset (gotta be careful not to crack the tile though--I guess I'd see what the drill bit does first; his were all kind of dull).
You're close. Don't use a nailset, use a center punch with the pointed end. Or maybe a scratch awl or sharp nail. All you want to do is put a ding in the glaze so the drill bit doesn't wander.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Too many tools.
Place the tile bit in the drill, place the tip of the bit on the pencil mark and strike the back end of the drill motor sharply with the heel of your hand. Instant ding for non wandering.
I wouldn't drill the tile because you can never go back. Epoxy is too inflexible for your application.
I would recommend silicone adhesive. It is similar to silicone caulk, but formulated for better adhesion. It is usually sold with the other adhesives, not with caulking. It has the flexibility to accomodate the differences in movement between your two dissimilar materials.
It will have to be clamped while setting. An expanding shower rod would make a good clamp.