Fein Multimaster – specific question
Hello –
A Breaktime and Knots search yielded plenty of glowing comments on the Fein Multimaster.
There is no doubt on the versatality and effectiveness of the tool.
But I am somewhat discouraged by the outrageously overpriced and ‘disposable’ blades and Fein’s unwillingness to lower the prices.
I did come across some user comments at Amazon that mentions using 4.5″ blades such as for the Makita grinder, which costs a fraction of the Fein and can be bought at most local suppliers.
Has anyone here tried this ?
I can’t find any information on the screw size and the method of attachment of the Fein blades.
Are they held in position simply by the pressure from the mounting screw ?
Also….I am interested in the rigid scraper blade that comes with the tool as well as one of the blades for opening up holes in plaster-on-rocklath for electrical and renovation projects.
If someone with similar experience could recommend which one to get I would appreciate it.
The company description given isn’t clear and is not consistant with what folks are mentioning.
Thanks for any wisdom.
Replies
I have one and love it, but it has limitations....it's not a sawzall or a wormdrive replacement for sure.
I, too, am annoyed at the cost of the blades. I've learned that the best life for a segmented sawblade is with the metal-cutting blade. The wood cutting blade wears out very quickly. The metal cutting blade is highly tempered and brittle, however, and will eventually start fracturing and coming apart....piece by piece.
The scraper blade you speak of; I've only used it to remove old caulking, or remove excess caulking that has set up. For that purpose, it is terrific and a real time-saver.
As a detail sander, its original purpose, it has no peer.
The idea of adapting other blades is an interesting idea...the key would be matching the arbor hole with the shaft shoulder on the fein tool....I'll have to check out the possibility.
Notchman - Thank you for the reply.
RE - "I've learned that the best life for a segmented sawblade is with the metal-cutting blade."
This is the type of practical first-hand info I am seeking and I appreciate it.
Fein lists three blades as "High Speed Steel" in all three configurations - round, recessed and segmented (for fiberglass, carbon fiber and 20-gauge steel.)
Would these be a good all-around blades to start out with ?
I'm assuming these would work on wood and plaster as well.
The round blade I will attempt to substitute with a 4.5" after it wears out.
The carbide rasp looks promising but not sure how well it holds up. I've read mostly thumbs-down on the carbide wheel for groute removal - wears out too fast.
Thanks for your help !
For me, the best all-round blade is the segmented, metal cutting flush cut. The flush cut style is recessed where it attaches to the mandrel and makes it easy to get right up next to work.
With the segmented blade, you can position it wherever you want so you can use the corner of the blade to get right into corners when needed.
Probably the niftiest use of the tool I ever had was installing a small octagan window in a house sided with decorative shingles. I was able to trim the existing shingles precisely enough around the RO that I was able to install the window and fit the trim perfectly against the shingles without having to do any replacement shingle work at all....a real time and material saver.
But I've also trimmed 1/4" off the bottom of a steel door, cut a couple inches off the end of a kitchen cabinet to accomodate a larger refrigerator, and a number of other little precise trim jobs that would have been difficult with any other tool.
But the blades are still a little on the spendy side! :-)
re- For me, the best all-round blade is the segmented, metal cutting flush cut.
------
Howdy, Notchman -
Such a blade doesn't show up on the Fein accessories PDF file....only the round HSS one shows up as a flush cutter.
I'll have to check the Coastal Tool web site.
But I do appreciate your reply, which I find very helpful in ordering the extra stuff without over-spending.
What I'm calling the metal cutting blade is identical to the wood cutting blade, but rather than shiny silver in color, is dark from heat treating. The tooth configuration is the same.
Also don't discount the straight, offset blades....they're shaped like the scraper but come with a couple different tooth configurations. They work well, too, but take a little more caution to control if the work is critical.
Have fun....the Fein is a great tool...if it had a tooth brush attachment I'd probably try it for that, too. (the brushes would probably cost more than a root canal, though!).
I think you are talking about this blade ?
It seems to be the same as the one that comes free with the tool package which evidently wears out very quickly when cutting wood.
I was hoping this thing would come in the High Speed Steel version.
31/8" Segmented Recessed Carbon Blades - 2 Pk
PART#: 63502114999 Â COST: $47.00
With this particular blade configuration being very useful I'm guessing Fein has no reason to offer a more durable version.
I will find out for myself with the free one and order the other HSS blades with the tool.
The E-cut blades will be maybe after I get some experience with the tool first.
Thanks again !
For those following this thread....
Some other ideas I came across while reading the feedbacks at Amazon;
3.5" blades for cordless saws such as Makita's.
4" blades from Sears, 50 or 100th.
Still not sure about the screw (arbor?) diameter used on the Fein but folks are able to use other blades on this tool with acceptible results.
I can't see how anything other than an extremely fine toothed blade would work as a replacement. The Fein ossilates(back n forth movement as opposed to circular). I've got a MultiMaster, and the wood sawing blade that comes with it is weak. It's for softwoods. I balked at the prices of the hardwood blade (it's round), but after I got it, found it much better than the softwood one. Still pricey.
Next I got some segmented e blades. One's about 2 1/2" across and pie shaped, the other about an 1" across and straight. Both are black. They vibrate like crazy til they start cutting, but then they shine. I've cut door jambs and casings off, 5/4 corner boards, paneling (where I forgot to cut out a switch box d'oh), base and shoe for cabinet retros, hardwood flooring repairs, rotten & cracked siding boards in place, and roof and sidewall sheathing. It's a moneysaver.
I've also used the grout saw and it worked great, no flying dust. I've used the slicer blade to cut caulk joints. I use the sander least of anything, but when I need it, it's the ticket.
If this one dies, I'll get another before it's smoking motor cools off<G> EliphIno!
Edited 10/26/2003 7:49:52 PM ET by bucksnort billy
Edited 10/26/2003 7:50:42 PM ET by bucksnort billy
Hey All,
Here's my 2 cents worth: The Fein detail sander takes blades with a 10 mm arbor hole, about .392" diameter. Anyone finds blades that will fit and do the job cheaper, I'm all ears.
Bugle
Machinist's slitting saw blades. Made from HSS and cobalt steels. Excellent quality, lots of sizes and thicknesses and pitches. Much cheaper. $5 or so per blade. Arbor hole is generally larger, but a washer or collar should be fairly easy. Only problem is that they only cut in one direction. Teeth on the Fein blades cut both directions. You may be able to resharpen the blades with a dremel cutoff disk, but it probably won't give a really smooth cut.
Sorry to say, even in Germany (Fein is from here) we have those prices...and no generica. Fein lives off this situation - I wonder why no Taiwanese company makes them already.
Do you have two Multi-masters in the US? One is amateur (the weakling), the second heavy-duty?
Mathias
here´s the pro vesion: Product Code: FSN 400 E Supercut - More watts, bigger washers, better deal in the long run: http://fein.database.de/Fein_Elektro/Fein_Elektro/BILD-DB/MVS_ORIGINALE/NP000a_0300/SUPERCUT/Grobbild/SC_02B09.jpg
Edited 10/27/2003 8:16:32 AM ET by Matt
Edited 10/27/2003 8:23:18 AM ET by Matt
As far as I could tell, the Fein model I have is the same as the one you linked to. As others have already said, it does a very good job.
john
Mine is definitley the light duty model...but it is still a tough little sucker. Dropped off a roof onto a brick sidewalk and still works like it did a couple of years ago when I got it. I am a tool abuser, so the next time I may step up to that Binford arbor, arrr arrr arr.
Greg is right about the overheating, especially on the softwood blades when cutting hard! Rotating the round blades occasionally helps, and I've found Dri Coat spray helps a whole bunch.
The funny thing about the Fein is while I had seen it around on jobs I'd never used it 'til I was running a job that had to have some installed door jambs cut a little higher. Somebody pulled out a Fein, bing bang it was done. I've done that job with hand saws and chisels, needless to say next day I ordered the Fein.
The blades are overpriced, but when I look at the time they save based on an hourly wage, I'll pony up any time> EliphIno!
Thanks for posting the arbor spec, which I was going to ask about.
I also appreciate all the othe replies.
My impression is most of the alternative blades may have arbor size larger then Fein's 10mm.
For instance, I see a 4-1/8", 20mm arbor diamond blade with a continuous rim in the Makita catalog.
Since I don't have a Fein in front of me it is kindof difficult to figure out the washer/spacer configuration or whatever else would be used to adapt the larger arbor blade.
The blade tooth count and configuration is somewhat unique to the Fein blades and I am finding it difficult to find alternative blades, mainly in the tooth count.
However, a continuous rim blade such as a diamond dry cutting blade mentioned above may be an excellent choice and very durable for cutting into plaster/drywall and even wide groute lines.
I am also looking at the 4-1/4" Planet Diamond dry cutting diamond masonry blade mounted on my Makita grinder.
Would a continuous rim diamond blade function well in ocillation mode on a Fein ? I'm picturing it working fine after getting past the score mark
The continuous rim diamond blade that Fein sells works very well in the old 636 I use (single speed with side-mounted switch), and I suspect that a generic one would, too. A larger arbor hole with a bushing is possible, but a 20 mm hole is getting close to the flange diameter, so you might have slippage when the tool is activated. Given a bushing, I'd try it myself. It amazes me that no one else has entered the market for these blades. All the torque is transferred from the shaft to the rim by the friction between the blade and the arbor flange. Bushing sources, anyone?
Bugle
I used the carbide blade for grout removal on one kitchen and it worked well. I think that you will only get one blade per kitchen though. If you were to do more of them then you would need to get the diamond blade at a C note. Ouch. Overall it worked ten times better than the Dremel piece of .......................................... .
<...thumbs-down on the carbide wheel for groute removal - wears out too fast.>
Where was this thread last week? I just bought the tile accessories set ... 5 blades for $97. plus tax. I only needed the thin carbide wheel to clean some excess thinset out of a new tile job before grouting. The only way I could get it locally was to buy the whole set.
It worked great for a few square feet and then quit ... all the carbide was gone. I have 350 more sq ft of kitchen floor to do. I sure can't afford any more of those blades.
Ouch, sorry about the fast wearing carbide wheel.
I had read about this complaint in Amazon/Tool Crib reviews on the carbide tile kit before starting this thread.
I sure hope it holds up better slicing into plater/rocklath.
It does seem a single diamond blade for about the same cost as the carbide tile kit is maybe the better option for cutting into grout. However, I have no idea if the diamond blade is substantially more durable.
As far-fetched as it may sound, this alone is enough to steer me away from using tile in the house....
i have the diamond blade. I used it to cut back plaster returns when necessary in a window replacement. Not aggressive, but not a dust storm either. Hold the vac hose up with it and none around the room. w/o the vac, it falls straight down. The lath I don't think will cut it. The plaster yes, but no quick job. Just accurate and not too much of a mess. Cuts good once you score the smooth coat/paint. Used a method -of scoring a foot, then digging in, moving down another foot.....
massive cuts I'll still use a sawzall w/plaster blade. Too bad milwaukee discontinued their shorty plaster blade.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
The grouting I removed was the small 1/8 inch variety and it removed it enough for me to regrout the counter. For the floor that would be the sanded grout and larger joints. Never used it on sanded only unsanded. Same is true for the Dremel tool I used. I believe FEIN shows it on a tile floor and you might be right that it would only last for a little bit. On the unsanded, I still say that as a consumeable, it worked for me. I don't know of any other way to clean out the very small joints in counter tile without damaging the tile. I allowed me to extend the life of the counter in my case so it was an acceptable exchange. I still use the tool for sanding window pane trim, works very well, and those precision cuts. I just wouldn't use it to sand the base in an entire house.
Speaking of FEIN. Does anyone know of bulk PSA paper, to use to cut into shape for FEINs PSA pads. Thanks.
Edited 11/3/2003 12:14:30 AM ET by noneoftheabove
Porter-Cable sells 4.5" wide rolls of PSA paper for their block sander, under the name "Stickit."
Sorry for the late reply. I couldn't remember what was recommended earlier and your response is just what I was looking for. Thanks again.
I was touring a jobsite that my buddy was working on and and noticed the floorlayer using a multimaster because I had just bought one.He went through a lot of blades because he was always cutting through painted over mouldings and door jambs and such. His solution was to make his own blades. what he did was to get the cheapest replacement blades for the japanese type pullsaws and cut them into 2 1/2" lengths and have them spotwelded to the fien offset blade base from trashed blades. They didn't last any longer but he did them in batches of 6 or so at a time and cost about $6 each. So I'm saving my trashed blades now. Hope this helps
cheers ........Rik........
Rik -
Great information.
I don't think any of the past comments at Breaktime/Knots mentions this idea but I had been thinking somone out there must be rigging up less expensive blades.
Time to head to Coastal Tool and Tool Crib web sites....
Thanks for your tips.
For the plaster I used their gold colored blade which came with the master tilers kits. It really allows you to cut into plaster, and I ussume drywall, with minimal dust. You can also tune up the holes when you try and piece your patch back in. Works well and I have found it to be a useful specialty tool.
The Multi-master has a 1mm or 3/8" raised sholder at the arbor that blades and pads must fit over. I only use it for those hard to get to places not as a replacement for more appropriate tools. The key to extending the life of the wood flush blade is not to force it, it cuts better with a feather touch. Don't hit any nails!
. . . and keep it cool ! It's easy to overheat the blade on hardwood. Be patient - just keep a ToolCrib ad nearby so you can look at the price of the blades every time you use the tool ! That'll slow you down.
Greg.
Wanted to report to all who replied with very helpful and informative feedbacks, which resulted in a purchase....
I blame ya'll for that.
Just ordered the variable speed and the tile kit, which I am hoping will hold up ok under careful use for opening up plaster/rocklath walls, mostly for access and new outlet boxes.
Decided to hold off on the diamond blades until after I get a chance to evaluate the other blades.
Most of the reports on the tile kit have been negative - mentioning how fast the cabide wheels wear out when cutting grout. Hopefully it will do better on plaster.
For a shopper's feedback, Coastal Tool's price on the multimaster beat Amazon's even after $7.50 shipping and the tile kit was about the same price. And I was able to speak with a person when ordering, asking one final question about the tile kit blades.
Thanks for all the helpful tips, feedbacks and warnings !!