I am building a fence and what to know which fence posts will last longer, Cedar or treated? The treated is a little cheaper and I think it will last longer. Also what else can you do to make the post last as long as possible? However treated post won’t match the cedar fence but it will be close enough. I will stick frame the panel with rough cut 2 x 4 and 1 x 6. It is full dimension. It is cheaper than those pre made fence panels with lattice tops. I’ve never understood why would bother to put a fence up to have lattice at the top. Around here everyone is using the panels. If you going to bother it might as well be 6′ solid to give some privacy.
Thank-you, Ace
Replies
It is called a 5 in 1 fence. I consider it a "gentlemans" fence because it does give you the privacy you desire but also gives that lack of barrier to converse with your neighbor. Sometimes a full 6 foot fence appears too stockade like and not pleasing to look at. Some historic district commissions typically approve these types of fences.
Good Luck,
Kyle
Cedar Posts?...I assume Western Red Cedar.............it will readily rot when buried.
If you have access to Eastern Aromatic Cedar (juniper Pine) post (all heart), it will last a long time as post.
Your best choice with easy availability is the treated. If you cut the post to length, be sure to put the uncut end in the posthole.
Add a little pigmented stain to alter the color.....................Iron Helix
Unless specified by the homeowner, I'll always opt to use PT over cedar for posts and rails. If you want to add some umph to the longevity factor, it's a pain in the ass but you can paint the end going in the hole with roofing tar. And make sure you get concrete beneath the post so it's not sitting directly on the ground inside the hole.
Concrete in the bottom of the hole is fine as long as you are setting the post on the hardened concrete, tamp in a little gravel at the bottom of the post, then concrete the rest if you choose. The reason is for drainage. If the post is sitting in a "well" of concrete, it will also be sitting in a pool of stagnant moisture. Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with a piece of chalk and cut it with an axe.
Use treated for the posts, wrap them in 1x if you want. Remember galvinized fasteners leave stain streaks on cedar. Maize nails are better stainless best.
In two years it will all be the same silver grey. (So will all my hair)
The PT will outlast the Cedar by twice as long.
If you are compelled to use the cedar, plant it in gravel or good draining soils.
Around here the cedar rots off at 6-10" below the soil 'cause it stays wet there and there is oxygen to feed the critters and bacteria. Three feet down, it just gets wet but doesn't rot. Treating it yourself below ground with Osmose or Copper will help but not like PT chemicals right in the wood.Excellence is its own reward!
piffin -
I am knee deep in a fence installation of my own and I am using PT 4x4's and 6' cedar stockade. I have been getting the holes down about 46-48", gravel for about 4-5" under the post, then cement for about 30" topped off and backfilled with sand/soil. I am happy with the sturdiness of this so far...do you see any issues with what I have done?
SJ
Know a little about alot and alot about little.
That's not too bad - the cement stabilizer down under, the gravel base for drainage, and good drainage near the top where rot usually sets in, and PT to boot. I think I like it, especially since it's not me digging and mixing.Excellence is its own reward!
If your holes are 48" you must be a tall man to be knee deep in the project. Too bad you're almost done. I've got a few extra post holes sitting around behind the shop someplace I could've made you a good deal on.
;>)
Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks piffin.
Who said I was almost done !!! I got six sections up this weekend and I have about 20-24 total. I was only planning to do one side this summer (the side that fell over in the winter) then I lost two more rotted sections in the back......so maybe I'll have to do them all.
The digging isn't that bad. I can get a 48" done in about 15 minutes. I am about 10-15 miles inland from the coast and about 2' down I hit sand. So shovel to 2' then clam shell to 46-48". 10' 4x4 PT Posts (wet of course :-( ). I was using the normal round PT posts with the three holes........put in two sections and said screw it and changed to square 4x4's and the metal brackets....so much cleaner and sturdier....not to mention easier.
They wanted $12/post for a 9.5" 4x4" PT posts with a carved finial on the top. I said screw it (again) and got regular old 10' 4x4" for $7.50 each.......throw a little copper top on it and bam.....looks decent.
SJ
Know a little about alot and alot about little.