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Festool

bgh | Posted in Tools for Home Building on January 24, 2008 04:15am

Ok which saw do you prefer the TS 55 EQ or TS 75 EQ, just wondering what all of you think the trade off between the two would be besides the weight and power, is bigger better in this case?

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  1. onder | Jan 24, 2008 04:34am | #1

    I have the 55. Light and handy but somewhat
    weak. Blades are small and seem to dull
    quickly. Id get the big one if I did it
    again.

    1. bgh | Jan 24, 2008 04:48am | #2

      Thats what I was thinking especially using it on flooring and solid wood doors.

  2. mike_maines | Jan 24, 2008 04:54am | #3

    My company has the 55.  It's great for cutting down plywood or softwood doors.  Used it recently to cut down a 1 3/4" mahogany door, didn't like it much.  Used it last week to cut down solid 1 1/2" beech countertop, it really didn't like that.  Kept tripping breakers. 

    I also did something stupid--tried to plunge cut.  Forgot about the riving knife.  That made the saw ride up, then the teeth caught on the guide and I ruined both the blade and the guide.  $125 mistake.  Oops.  Luckily the wood wasn't ruined beyond repair.

    I might go for the 75 if I did it again, but that saw is a beast to lug around.  The 55 is nice and light.  It really depends on what you'll be cutting with it.

    1. bgh | Jan 24, 2008 05:00am | #4

      Thanks I will mostly use it on flooring, doors, and cabinets (everything), just don't want to buy two.

      1. mike_maines | Jan 24, 2008 05:22am | #5

        The 55 will cut almost 2" thick as long as the material isn't too hard, so if I were you I'd go with the smaller one.

        I've had the EZ guide for a couple of years with an 8 1/4" Skilsaw on it.  When I changed to a 7 1/4" saw it made a huge difference in the ease of use.  One case where bigger isn't necessarily better.

    2. john | Jan 25, 2008 09:34pm | #14

      I also did something stupid--tried to plunge cut.  Forgot about the riving knife.  That made the saw ride up, then the teeth caught on the guide and I ruined both the blade and the guide.  $125 mistake.  Oops.  Luckily the wood wasn't ruined beyond repair.

       

      I don't get that. The riving knife is springloaded and retracts into the machine. The only way you get a kick back with the Festool saw is if you forget that it's going to try to go backwards when you plunge and aren't braced and ready for it (I know, it happened to me). Festool sells a little device that clamps onto the rail to prevent kick back when plunging

      JohnIf my baby don't love me no more, I know her sister will.

      1. mike_maines | Jan 25, 2008 11:02pm | #15

        That must have been what happened then.  They probably explain that in the instructions or something?

      2. Henley | Jan 26, 2008 02:29am | #16

        I find that the kick back only happens when I use my buddies tool-and he's watching.
        Sorry mmoogie!

      3. dbcabs | Jan 26, 2008 03:03am | #17

        John, I wonder if he was using the older saw that you had to remove the riving knife?

        The newer saw in addition to a spring loaded knife, comes with a stop included.

        Its a great saw, especially when hooked up to their vacuum.

        DaveW

        1. onder | Jan 26, 2008 06:11am | #18

          Doesnt the little stop come with the saw?
          You can buy another to stop at if you
          want. Actually I never use them, I
          always start the plunge by putting
          my finger on the front of the saw foot
          and plunge carefully. Seems many people
          have problems with this and it is posted
          all over. Took it all to heart and have
          always been slow and carefull = no
          climp out.I have the CT22 vac. Love it. Couldnt
          imagine using any Festool without it
          inside or out. The 55 will be fine even on hardwood
          and that hateful MDF but those little
          blades get used up like candy. They
          cost a fortune but I have them sharpened
          locally reasonably which helps.

        2. mike_maines | Jan 26, 2008 11:31pm | #19

          I've only had the saw a few months, so I don't believe there's a newer model but there might be.

          I didn't know what that extra piece was for.  Guess it's the stop for plunge-cutting.

          I got a Midi vacuum too, which works great as long as you're not trying to just shave off 1/16".

          1. dbcabs | Jan 27, 2008 06:51pm | #20

            Mike, On the old saw ATF55 which went out of production about 2yrs (?) ago, you had to remove the riving knife to make plunge cuts. I thought thats what happened to you.

            I sold my ATF55 two months ago, and upgraded to the TS55EQ which has the spring loaded riving knife, which makes doing plunge cuts less time consuming.

            If your trimming off less than 3/16" Festool makes a cover plate ( part# 491750 $42.00) that mounts on the side to helps with dust control. If I were trimming down more than a few doors in a finished house,  I would get one so that I would not have to carry thew doors outside. In the meantime I just use a pc. of duct tape on the side of blade housing close to base.

            I have the CT22 vac. but have been thinking of getting the Midi vac. for installs, it has the boom arm on it that needs to be removed for transport. Do you like the Midi?

          2. mike_maines | Jan 27, 2008 06:58pm | #21

            Thanks for the tips.  It's the TS55.  I'll have to look closer to see what's going on with the riving knife.  It certainly seemed like it didn't retract the way it should have.

            I just checked the amp rating on the TS55 and the TS75:  10 amps vs 13.  10 amps is not a powerful saw; I guess that's why it bogged down in thick, dense wood.  Should have checked that more closely before purchasing.

            The Midi seems fine.  I haven't used the others so I don't have anything to compare it to.  I got the hose corral for the top, but didn't spring for the boom arm.  I can see where it would be handy.

  3. mathewson | Jan 24, 2008 06:50am | #6

    I have the 75 and love it. Been on some jobs where guys have the 55, mostly because of price. After using the 75 no one yet said they would get the 55 if they had it to do over again.

    1. bgh | Jan 24, 2008 07:05pm | #7

      Thanks Mathewson I want a saw that will do the job, I will go for the 75 it's not like I will be carrying it around in my pocket all day.

      1. bgh | Jan 25, 2008 05:21am | #8

        Those who have the saw did you buy the vacuum, and do you use it?

        1. User avater
          mmoogie | Jan 25, 2008 05:40am | #9

          No. But another guy I occasionally work with did and does. It gets a lot of the sawdust. Makes working inside a lot neater.Steve

          1. bgh | Jan 25, 2008 06:35am | #10

            Just wondering if the dust system is a must. Had read somewhere that it would prolong the life of the tool.

          2. User avater
            mmoogie | Jan 25, 2008 06:38am | #11

            Never heard that. My friend that uses the vac most of the time has three of the saws and has burned up the bearings on one of them. But he uses then pretty heavily...as do I. I use it on dimensional lumber more than I should, and push it to the point of the thermal protection kicking in every now and then...oops.Steve

          3. bgh | Jan 25, 2008 05:50pm | #12

            Now I'am confused even more so, with Dewalt and Makita coming out with new plunge saws.......

          4. unTreatedwood | Jan 25, 2008 06:18pm | #13

            I can't imagine using my 55 without the vacuum, especially with MDF. It's one of the major benefits of the system."The nearest thing to eternal life we will ever see on this earth is a governmental program"  -Ronald Reagan 

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