Replies

1. 
   ScottMatson | Feb 11, 2005 10:02pm | #1

   1. I don't know of any rule of thumb, but I'm not an architect. Will you be butting up corner boards of the same dimension or ripping one side down the thickness of itself to make them square?

   I use 3/4" square stock for inside corners. Outside corners may depend on the style of house.

   2. No good way to make an off centered door seem more symmetrical. I guess if it mattered enough you could fudge the door trim in width and reveal, and fudge the corner boards in width and reveal, and see if it fools the eye. Maybe.

   3. I believe this to vary regionally due to supplier's preference and shipping distances.

   4. Use a diamond blade on a circular saw. $29.95. Some of the guys here like the fibercement shears, which I haven't used personally. I also have cut a few pallets worth on a Sawbuck with just plain carbide tipped blades before it renders them useless.

1. 
   doneitall | Feb 11, 2005 11:55pm | #2

   Will you be butting up corner boards of the same dimension or ripping one side down the thickness of itself to make them square?

   -----------

   Ideally, I will get two boards of the correct (different) dimension, though I would rip one down if necessary.

   I'm planning to use miratec for the trim, based on all the positive comments here.

   The house style is brick colonial - this will be essentially the only siding on the house, other than a few courses on the gable ends of the covered porch.

   I was assuming the outside corner boards should be 4" to 6".  Is that too big?  What about for the fascia/gutter boards?

   Thanks.

    

1. 
   ScottMatson | Feb 12, 2005 12:25am | #3

   I doubt if you'd want them any larger than that if that answers your question?I'm not a fan of siding with that large an exposure, so I'm used to using smaller trim with the smaller exposures. Maybe your sizing makes sense but if you don't want to draw attention to the corners, consider downsizing them I've never used that kind of trim either; don't know how it would be to work with.

2. 
   dIrishInMe | Feb 16, 2005 03:12pm | #19

   Don't rip your outside corner boards to the width you want.  If you are using Miratec, there is a double reason not to rip, as the cut edges are very porous and obviously don't have the factory primer on them.  Miratec trim comes in 3.5" and 4.5" (actual size) which can be mated up to form a uniform corner and is the standard size.  4.5" & 5.5" can also be used for a more upscale look.  If you decide to use cement board trim you may find that the readily available widths limit your choices unless you want to go special order.  If you decide to rip cement board trim, you will experience the nasty dust described above times 10.   Use 1" thick material for both inside and outside corners and the inside corners will need to be ripped regardless of what material you use.

   Re someone's comment above about Miratec being the same old crap, I am somewhat suspicious too, however Miratec is treated against moisture intrusion and insects and carries a 25 year warranty, so I feel it is the best option available for hardboard type trims.  I think it is fine as long as you get a real good coat of paint on it, especially on the cut edges.

   Re saw cutting fiber cement, less dust is produced if the material is damp.  Shears don't work well on damp siding though, and obviously not at all on the trim.  Fiber cement circ saw blades have fewer teeth than regular wood blades, and abrasive type blades are a complete no. Matt

1. 
   edwardh1 | Feb 16, 2005 03:19pm | #20

   If you are replacing wood (3/4 thick) with hardie (3/8 thick) as horiz palnks on a wall, do you just lay it on or do you need to add a 3/8 piece on each stud to try to build it back out to same place?

2. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 12, 2005 05:43pm | #4

   >> 1. Is there a 'rule of thumb' or suggestion about what size corner boards to use with 7.25"
   >> reveal siding?

   Here's a chance to use the Golden ratio. :o)

   7.25 / 1.618 = 4.48 =~ 4.5"

1. 
   jimblodgett | Feb 12, 2005 06:59pm | #5

   I think the size of building is really important to consider when decideing what size corner boards, and other trim, to use. Siding exposure is certainly part of the equation, but I don't think it's the most important relationship to consider.

   I wonder if in our mind's eye, corner boards represent the columns that the roof sits on?  Did anyone read Mike Maines' article (Drawing Board) about cornice returns in the last FHB?  That was about this same type of thing.  Might even have talked a bit about corner boards, but certainly made clear to me why some returns look alright, and some look right. I gotta go back and reread that. 

3. 
   FrankB89 | Feb 12, 2005 07:27pm | #6

   Normally, the reveal for the 8 1/4" siding is 7".  That 1/4" may not sound like much, but it does reduce your blind nailing edge and some risk of fracture by the nail if you get to close to the edge.

   As far as the sawblades, there are diamond "plank cutters", about $10, a range of diamond masonry blades about $30 and up.  The best I've found is the Hitachi F/C blade....about $70 (7 1/4"....more for a 10" or 12"), but produces less dust and makes a clean cut.

   As far as the price, I've found F/C to be almost a commodity.  I personally prefer Certainteed and usually get it at prices equal to or less than Hardy...my supplier carries both....and most of the other yards do, too.

    

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/12/2005 11:37 am ET by Notchman

4. 
   5brown1 | Feb 13, 2005 06:15pm | #7

   Right now you can pick up a Hitachi 7 1/4 blade made to cut Hardie Board siding on Ebay. I paid $33.88 + shipping (about $14 less than local price for comparable blade. It is supposed to be good for at least 1000 cuts.

1. 
   jimblodgett | Feb 15, 2005 05:13am | #8

   I can't believe all you guys use circular saws to cut that stuff.  That dust is a serious carcinogen, man. 

1. 
   ScottMatson | Feb 15, 2005 05:25am | #9

   That's why I'm always sawing it downwind@!

2. 
   JerryHill | Feb 15, 2005 06:28am | #10

   Dust IS a serious issue.......the last 'Hardy'  job I did was with carbide blades.When the neighbor kids got off the bus in the afternoon we shut down the saw and got out the touchup paint and caulking guns out.

3. 
   JerBear | Feb 16, 2005 06:19am | #16

   There's an old song called The Silicosis Blues.  Applicable here I would say.

1. 
   jimblodgett | Feb 16, 2005 07:36am | #17

   Well, I have asthma, so I've been dust sensitive for many years.  Long ago I stopped worrying about how I looked wearing a dust mask.  But that cement dust, man, that stuff is BAD.  Even if you don't breath it you're still releasing it into our air.  What about when you walk through it on the ground?  Doesn't it kind of billow up imperceptibly?

   First couple fiber cement jobs I did I rented shears.  The next time I broke down and bought a set.  That is excellent siding.  I encourage customers to use it whenever it fits the job and used it on our own new house.  Those shears are less than 200 skins, if I remember right.  Well worth it.  

1. 
   JerBear | Feb 16, 2005 02:54pm | #18

   I've done two cement board siding jobs and both times used a diamond blade and wore a serious rubber mask resperator.  That helps but you're right, the dust is still everywhere.  Next one, I will buy a pair of the snippers.

2. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 16, 2005 08:08pm | #21

   >> Even if you don't breathe it you're still releasing it into our air.Is there sand in the soil where you live? Does it get on the streets where people drive on it, or on the sidewalks where people walk on it? Are there sand and gravel pits? Do streams wash sand down from the high country in the spring and after rainstorms and deposit it on the banks?The silica dust in fiber cement is not uniquely injurious. It's just sand. The amount of dust that cutting FC adds to the environment is less than the legendary f*rt in a whirlwind.

3. 
   ScottMatson | Feb 19, 2005 07:58pm | #22

   Not quite. Silica dust in the air is really bad. It gets in your lungs, and you can get cancer. Much worse than regular dust.

4. 
   UncleDunc | Feb 19, 2005 08:11pm | #23

   >> Much worse than regular dust.

   If there's sand in the local environment, some portion of the regular dust is silica dust. The more sand there is in the local environment, the more silica dust there is in the regular dust.

5. 
   ScottMatson | Feb 19, 2005 08:30pm | #24

   True enough, to a much smaller degree. The silica dust in a general environment would tend to be a bit heavy, and not float around all that much. It's generally in a manufacturing or in our case, usage situation that the silica is a proportionally huge dose of what is in the immediate breathing vicinity. When I've cut the thick trim, especially ripping it, depending on the wind I can send a nice cloud into the neighborhood, and was really surprised that no neighbors complained about it. I believe it is a very short term problem, that the heaviness will let it sort it's way out of the air and filter into the soil, grass, etc. and rain takes it away later.It sure is heavy in the dust bag of the saw. I carefully empty the thing all the time.

6. 
   Isamemon | Feb 19, 2005 08:56pm | #25

   Ill have to agree with Blodgett about the dust.

   It is nasty. The first fibercement job I did was helping a person. We used a saw, it was a hot summer day. The dust was everywhere, sticking to your sweat, in your eyes.

   That was the last job I did with a circ saw. I bought a snapper brand shears.

   I will admit/say  that the cleanest cuts are with a circ saw

   we now only do the siding on small jobs, and big ones sub it out . It is sad though, we will drive by the job site, and the sub is out there doing a great job, but a old skill 77 with a diamond blade, and no repirator

   wonder if he is one of those types, that years later he or his survivors  will try to sue Hardi because of his damaged lungs.

5. 
   GrahamPianos | Feb 15, 2005 08:18am | #11

   I used a mason's fiber blade to cut some of the 1" trim stock.  Huge clouds of dust, lots of feed pressure, burn marks, etc., but the cut was smooth (using a radial arm saw).  Don't try it without a paint respirator mask, goggles, and every inch of your body covered.  You will still taste it for a few hours. 

   I started cutting the siding with a carbide circular saw blade, which was quickly ruined.  I purchased an electric shear (Porter Cable), and love it.  It is quiet, cuts cleanly to the line, is easy to handle on scaffolding, and I can even coax it to cut gentle curves.  No dust, no fuss.  Worth every penny, just for one house.  Resale should be good with low mileage. 

   Greg Graham

1. 
   ScottMatson | Feb 16, 2005 05:09am | #12

   Greg,Can you cut trim with the shears?

1. 
   GrahamPianos | Feb 16, 2005 05:45am | #13

   No.  The shears will only cut the siding "planks".  The thick trim boards need some sort of saw.  The circular saw blades with only four or five teeth made for the purpose are the best, I have read.  No personal experience there.  I used the fiber mason disks on a radial arm saw (pushing through instead of pulling on crosscuts) and eventually cut through.  Smooth, straight cuts, but lots and lots of dust.  Huge, billowing clouds of it.  I didn't try a wet saw, like you would use for bricks or stone.  I try to keep the cement board as dry as possible because I want to prime paint the edges before installation. 

1. 
   mikevb | Feb 16, 2005 06:03am | #14

   How do you guys deal with getting good tight miters on the HardiTrim?

   Also, does anyone use the HardiSoffit - I've used it, but I have to install it with my 15 ga finish nailer.  My roofer (flat roofing nails are what Hardi says to use) busts it all to hell and back - and that's not even setting the head down flush.

   MikeVB

   P.S.  I had a local supplier here warn me off of MyraTec (Miratec?) cause he said it's the same old crap like LP put out about 10 yrs ago that just sucks up water like a sponge and falls apart.  He said he kept a piece on his desk for a long time that was all blown up from water.  Have others not had this problem?

2. 
   GrahamPianos | Feb 16, 2005 06:04am | #15

   I should add:

   You can also use the shears on the 4 by 8 foot sheets of cement fiber panels, which are the same thickness as the siding planks.  Just not the inch thick trim boards.

   I have used a saber saw with the grit-embeded blades to cut tight curves, as well as finishing inside corners where the circular saw can't reach. 

   I also use the grit-edge hole saws for small circles.  Regular bi-metal hole saws last about one hole in cement siding. 

   The attached photos show a couple unusual applications of the 4 by 8 fiber cement panels.  Smooth panels were used as imitation stucco and wood grain panels were ripped to appropriate widths to look like timbers for a weather resistant Tudor half-timbered look.  Sorry for the low resolution, but these were clipped from larger snapshots I took of the finished dormer and box window.  The rest of the house has stucco on the front, fiber cement lap siding on the back.

   Greg Graham