Back to this Hardiboard stuff. Have any of you used an electric fiber cement shear to cut this material. It looks like an awkward tool but allows you to work without the dust. Which makes have you used? Are you satisfied with the finish of the cut and the power /durability of the tool? Thanks for any tips you might have.
Tejon
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Replies
Snapper. Way over priced for some scissors on the end of a drill, but for straight cuts with no dust, can't beat them...shears I mean, not the brand.
Don't worry, we can fix that later!
I have used the Porter Cable shear and it was great! No dust, very fast and easy. I never used the saw I bought for the the job because the shear worked so well! After I was finished I sold it to a contractor friend who has also had great experience with it.
Bill
Kett shears, I think I paid about $150 for it. It works great, especially if you cut with the siding back side up. Definitely worth the cost. Kett also makes another head for cutting sheetmetal which can easily be swapped for the shear head.
I've used the PC shears they were a good tool and worked well. Personaly I like using a saw because it allows for gang cutting. The shears are dust free which is a huge bonus. They do however, make a big mess.
Set up a set of horses with 2x4's running across them and put a trash can under the center area, make your cuts there, it leaves little to no mess to pick up at the end of the day.
I've used snapper and kett, both work great, kett has the advantage of having reversible jaws so you can get twice the lifespan out of them.
I would never use a saw to cut the stuff unless it was absolutely necessary. And then I will use a mask. Right now my father is dying of pulmonary fibrosis and it has really opened my eyes to the hazards of daily exposure to dust 'n stuff
Carpenter
First of all, I am sorry to hear about your father. We all need to be wiser about the products we work with.
Secondly, it was my undrstanding that the snapper model also had reversable knives. I could be wrong, but I thought that is what the on-line manual alluded to. In any case thanks for your input and take care of your father.
Tejon
Thanks for the words. Like I said, it's sobered me up about a lot of stuff that we take for granted.
Regarding the snapper shears. I'm sure the new ones probably have reversible jaws too. I think the ones I worked with were the first fiber cement shears ever invented. (this was quite a while ago) We thought they were the 8th wonder of the world at the time.
I have a PC shear, works great and does make a mess of curls on the ground.
Speed square & utility knife to mark, it cuts to a scribed line perfectly.
I use a Makita 9.6V 4" saw with a diamond blade for odd little fits. Dusty mess, but accurate. Malco has a nibbler that works well for odd cuts too.
Joe H
I've only sided a few buildings with fiber cement siding but shears are the best way I've seen to cut that stuff. Looks like a dangerous tool but they are very easy to control and don't seem unsafe in your hand at all.
First couple jobs I rented a shear to give it a try, then bought a PC when I had a whole house to side. I don't see much difference among the two or three brands I've used.
Fiber Cement is here to stay. Great siding.
Will the PC shears cut 1/2", as I have read here and on a tiling board, or are they really limited to 5/16 as rated?
I recently cut some 1/2" tile backer board with mine. Hope it didn't damage them, but they sure cut that stuff with no problems.
Jim,
Thanks for the info!
i bought a set of the pc's and i love them. i bought them because a freind bought the kett and the screws holding the head on kept shearing off and also because they were a little less expensive and when the head or knives finally wear out you can replace them with kett head which is less expensive for some reason.pc says they will only cut 5/16" cement products but ive cut 1/2" backer board no problem had them about 2 years no sign of wear yet.
i have a suspicion the reason my friends shears were sheering the screws was because he was working the tool and not leting the tool do the work.
tyke
Just another day in paradise
Can you switch the head out on the PC to one for sheet metal?
That would be good because I have some places I want to try Hardie and the back of my shop bldg I want to replacethe plywood with metal.
You can with the Kett
No, the PC heads for metal and FC ar not interchangeable...I've had the metal shears a couple years longer than the FC shears and was understandably annoyed that I couldn't combine use in one identical-appearing power unit.
I always considered getting the Kett shears because they claim you can cut up to 1/2" with them, but the only source for me was mail-order.
Now I learn from Blodgett that the PC shears will cut 1/2" and I feel a little stupid that I never even tried it.
BTW, someone mentioned that cutting with the shears is most efficient when you let the shears do the work: Well, that's absolutely true...try to force the things through and they cut slower, tend to give a ragged cut and tire your arm.
The last siding job I did, I used one of the 4-tooth FC blades (Hitachi, I think) that I won at a lumberyard customer dinner.....the blade stayed sharp through the entire job (2400 sq. ft. house with lots of windows, elect. outlets and such), and dust was much more minimal than with a diamond masonry blade.
Someday, I'll probably spring for the setup Mike Smith uses with the Makita FC saw and vacuum.
Hey Notcher. Are you sayin' they got a lumber yard down there that feeds you AND gives you tools?
That's what I'm sayin'!
In addition to their annual "Customer Appreciation Dinner" they actually do a BBQ at the yard about noontime every couple of months.
Although, with what I spend there month to month, I don't feel bad about inviting my crew along (I've got one guy who can eat his weight every day!)
In fact, at the dinner that got me a FC sawblade, the honorable Larry Haun, who lives down here, won a 54" flat-screen TV and Home Sound System!
Notchman,
My yard hosted a golf tournament, lunch, and giveaway this summer. There was about 200 people there and they covered green fees, carts, lunch, and gave away a ton of stuff. Sure is nice to be recognized as a needed part of their business, plus they know my name. Beats the hell out of Big Orange.
ColeCole Dean
Dean Contracting
Well, I got a nice fleece lined, nylon shell jacket from my yard last year (with their name on the back). And they all know my name when I go in there, but I'm not sure it's for the right reasons.
What I find incredible is that there Notcher is, living in paradise, and gets all these freebies and food to boot. I'm thinkin' of migrating now, but I think I'll look about 100 miles farther down the coast.
Jim; You still eyeing the Brookings area?
Rumor has it there's a 1,000 plus residential development about to get underway down there....and you're well below retirement age, right?
It might be a good time to make your move!
i dont know TX i dont work eith metal so i never invetigated it.tyke
Just another day in paradise
one thing...snapper shears rule... dont even bother with out them.just finshed a 1 mill in fiber cape cod and coulden get the shears for a month in to the job. used carbide,masonary,cut and snap.all sucked compared to the shears.but they take a 1/4 kerf so take your line and it helps to angle the shears and back cut the peice for a perfict fit.
I have sided many homes with Hardi siding and have used both Snapper and PC shears, as well as circular saws with various blades. First, I am told that Snapper holds the patent on the shear head and PC buys the heads from them. I believe this as they are virtually identical. They also both have reversible jaws (have reversed and changed quite a few in the Snapper). Second, the Snapper uses a Milwaukee drill motor (Hole Shooter I think) to power its shear while PC uses its own. Both shears work great and for me its a matter of which I can purchase cheaper. Just got the PC for about $210--Snapper was $225.
I use the shears when I am on scaffold and when I am doing angle or rip cuts. For cross cuts on the ground I have designed and built a cut table utilizing a PC circular saw on a crosscut sled. It works similar to a chop saw only it has an 18' table and fence that has a stick-on ruler and stop. The cut-man (or woman) doesn't need to use a tape measure--just slide the stop along the fence and lock it down. I works really well, especially as we can cut 3-4 pieces at a time.
We have experimented with many different types of blades and found that 4-6 tooth diamond blades last longer and cut fastest with less dust than any others. The blades without teeth create more dust and are too slow, especially when stack-cutting. 24t carbide framing blades also work well, but they don't last long--typically requiring 2-4 blades per house.
That's my two cents worth.
"We have experimented with many different types of blades and found that 4-6 tooth diamond blades last longer and cut fastest with less dust than any others".
Can you give a brand name of this blade? Thanks.
B.D.
Hitachi makes one, I think dewalt makes one and there are a few others. I've heard others say the hitachi cuts well but no experience with it myself.
Even if you use the fiber cement blades, they will produce a lot of dust. The best method is the shears and if you need to make rips for windows, etc. then just get a cheap masonary blade, the hilti's are $2 at home depot, find others for about the same. They'll last about 1 house so if your not a contractor its the best bet.
http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/hitachi/hardiplank_blades.htm?E+coastest
Go to this link and search for fiber cement, shears, etc. and you'll find all the different tools that are made for fiber cement.
http://www.abccatalog.com/store/index.asp
Forgot to address the cut quality. The shears tend to tear and leave a rough cut where the saw leaves a much smoother cut, yet it does tear out some on the top surface. It helps to cut the plank face-down with either method. Also, I always try to use factory ends for the butts and cut ends against the trim.
As for power/durability of the shears, they are great. Plenty of power and as durable as your 1/2" drill motor. The only thing is, the jaws need to be reversed and replaced on occasion. If you are using shears to do the whole house (no saw) they will probably last for 4-8 houses depending on the size of the house. They cost about 75 bucks to replace.
If I could use only one tool to cut siding, it would be the shears as they are quieter and less dusty. As for the mess it makes, we roll out visqueen under the cut area.
Bonehead,
Thanks for the info.
Brad