Replies

1. 
   DonCanDo | Dec 11, 2006 04:34am | #1

   I've never installed FRP, but that does sound like a pretty big notched trowel.  Does the glue specifically say to use that size trowel for FRP?  Make sure you use the right glue.  I would be concerned about the glue showing through the panel.  Especially if the glue is dark.  You may want to test it first.  Also, find out the brand of panel that you have and check the manufacturers website for installation instructions.

2. 
   user-158769 | Dec 11, 2006 07:15am | #2

   Hi Chris,

   FRPs are fairly easy to work with but it takes a little time. You can use either a solvent base or a water base adhesive...the last few jobs I did, I used the water base and it held just fine....a lot easier on the fumes too. The adhesive you use must say on the can that it is for FRPs...Regular construction adhesives don't always work.

   I  tend to stay away from Henrys brand after having bad luck with their carpet adhesives. Instead , I use TIGHT BOND brand... ( Specifcally...TIGHT BOND- SOLVENT FREE, fast grab/ water base FRP adhesive)they recommend that you use a "V" notched trowel with the teeth being 3/8 wide X 1/4 inch deep. 

    I always use a "V" notched trowel, but it can be smaller than 3/8. Use the same "V" notch that you would usually use for spreading glue for lineoleum flooring.

   Cut and prefit each panel before glueing. Trim pieces (inside corner, middle dividers, etc) must be specifically FRP trim. Regular plastic trim (the kind you use for regular marlight type paneling) will not work with FRP because FRP is thinner and requires tighter fitting trim .....so make sure you have the proper trim if needed.

   After cutting your panel to size, spread the glue on the wall, not to  the panel. After spreading the glue, install panel to  the wall.

   I use a "J" roller to roll the panel tight and  to help alleviate air pockets. I also have a 2x4 wrapped in carpet and use this to firmly press the FRP in place. I put most of my weight against this board and push the board around....much in the same manner as ironing a garment. The carpet padding keeps me from scratching the panel.

   When installing, place panel against the wall, push it firmly in place, then smack the panel with the heel of your hand.  After smacking panel in key places, use the carpet pad and press panel in place. Start from center of panel and work outwards. For more pressure, go over panel with "J" hand roller. After rolling, move on to next panel and leave this one alone.  Have mineral spirits on hand ( if solvent based) to wipe up any excess glue seepage.

   Note, that entire wall MUST be covered with glue, bare spots will result in air pockets.

   FRP is a bit brittle, you should use fine toothed saw blades in both your circular and jig saws. A table saw works OK for ripping long pieces, but be careful that the FRP does not slip under or get caught underneath your tablesaw's fence. Aviation snips will also work for cutting small radius's and stuff

   I hope I'm not scaring you...just take your time, and prefit every piece before glueing.

   Although I occaisonally use a sharp block plane to true up edges that fit in tight corners, a better tool to use is simply a piece of 1x fitted with an 80 grit belt sander's belt. This hand held sanding block will do the trick nicely of fine tuning any tapers etc.

   When installing trim mouldings such as corners or dividers, the trim is intalled on one panel, and the adjoining panel  butts and locks into it....so decide which panel you want to first affix the trim moulding to...cut the trim to size and slip on to the  panel. Hold this trim in place  to the panel with  several pieces of masking tape . The tape should be placed on the "good" face side.

    Failure to tape the trim mouldings  in place prior to installing can cause the trim to "move" when  being glued to the wall. Once FRP is pressed into the glue, it is very hard to move around. Much easier to hold mouldings in place with tape, and then remove tape after glueing.  DO NOT attempt to simply install a panel and then lift panel edge away from wall and slide the trim on in place...that method will cause you a lot of grief.

    

   Best of luck.

   Davo

3. 
   RobertLee | Dec 12, 2006 08:15am | #3

   I have installed a fair amount of FRP and the best way to glue it is to apply the glue to the back of the panel and let it sit for a bit. Lay the panel on some 2 x 4 between saw horses to keep the panle flat and stiff. Read the instructions on the glue and it will suggest that you wait a minutes before putting it on the wall. Cutting the panels can be done with, large bulldog snips, tin snips, electric nibbler, skill saw, table saw, jig saw, hole saws, and drywall cut out tool. I use a had held floor roller to make sure it is stuck to the wall. I install the dividers on the sheet once it is on the wall and has been rolled. I do this to get some of the glue to the edge of the sheet and then the divider will also get into the glue.  

4. 
   jrnbj | Dec 12, 2006 08:37am | #4

   There you have it....two replies with completely opposite suggestions...ain't Breaktime swell

   Good luck....from what I know, the biggest deal is to have it acclimatized..and even then, be careful not to but it too tight

1. 
   user-236374 | Dec 13, 2006 01:32am | #5

   Well, they may be two different ways, but then again I don't always do things the same way. I guess I'll try glue on the wall, and if it doesn't work well, I'll try the other way. There are only three panels, and if the first two ways don't work, I'll devise my own way. So there!

   Thanks for all the suggestions. Of course if the suggestions are not to my liking, I will have to come after someone. (probably with glue all over me).

   Chris M