Figuring circuit breaker compatibility?
Hi all:
Obviously, at the end of the day it’s up to the inspector, but before that I’m trying to figure out circuit breaker brand compatibility on my mid-70s Arrow-Hart Murray panel.
First off, was Arrow-Hart a division of Murray? In other words, is this a Murray panel or an Arrow-Hart panel?
Here’s my interpretation of the attached picture… I can use Murray breakers type MP, MM and EP and Bryant types BRD, BRO, BAR, BR and GFCB.
Does the underlined “W” refer to Westinghouse? If so, then I can use QP and QPGF and the ITE/EQP and ITE/QF
More importantly, Crouse Hinds is pretty easy to find, and I see a lot of references to “Murray/Crouse Hinds”. Does that mean Murray bought Crouse Hinds, and an inspector would consider the brands compatible?
This is probably as much a history question as anything, but I’m curious.
Thanks for any help!
-t
Replies
Call your inspector.
New work around here has to have breakers to be the same as the panel. Old work can be approved if orignal breakers are not readily availabe anymore, but the inspector makes that call.
Well the label says that Murray is a division of AH at the time that it was made. Although, just from that, there is no way that who bought who.
Yes, the W in a circle is the Westinghouse trademark. Bryant became Westinghouse (or vice versa) and then became the BR series at Cutler Hammer.
And Murry is now owned by Seimens. I understand that it varies by market where the stuff is called Murry or Seimen.
So the most common parts would be Murry/Seimen or Cutler Hammer BR.
IIRC SQ D Homeline has also be certified to fit with a number of other brand panels. So that is a potential source, but you need to track down their listing.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I think Siemens bought ITE Gould, (which is not Westinghouse) and then bought Murray,
I have seen new Murray Panels full of Siemens breakers that are the same style of the Gould breakers but with Siemens printed on the them..
I would add that you also need to make sure whatever breaker you end up with, that they have the 10,000 amp interrupting capacity as the label specifies........ just FYI
which isn't a problem in residential since that AIC is typical for homes !
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