Replies

1. 
   ripmeister | Dec 10, 2004 09:10pm | #1

   It depends on the size.  If its more than an inch or two I would put in a drywall patch and then tape and mud.  If you are going to fill a fairly large hole with compound get some of the 30" and just slap it in and then tape and mud a second and third coat to feather it out.  The biggest concern with large gaps or holes is that the mud needs something to back it up.  The foam backer sounds like it would do the job.

2. 
   timkline | Dec 10, 2004 10:05pm | #2

   don't use foam backer. you don't want a soft base under a thin layer of joint compound.

   fill it in with a quick setting compound and tape it if you want.

    

   carpenter in transition

3. 
   RW | Dec 10, 2004 10:41pm | #3

   Durabond. If you can get a piece of rock in, more gooder. Leave it just below flush. Then mud over it.

   I'm a pretty good finisher, on account of not being a great hanger. I am forever overcutting a box or knocking out a HVAC hole in the ceiling an inch off where I ought to be. Durabond saves my sanity.

   "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain

1. 
   bdprops | Dec 13, 2004 05:53pm | #49

   What Durabond product? I looked up their website, and they have many products, none of which looked obvious for filling holes.

   And Durabond is better than Easy Sand quick setting compound?

   Thanks, Brian

1. 
   Shoeman | Dec 13, 2004 06:36pm | #50

   The numbers on the Dura Bond and Easy Sand refer to the working time in minutes.

   Easy Sand 5 will go off in the pan very quickly where as Easy Sand 90 will give you about an hour and a half.

   As to Dura Bond being better than Easy Sand - depends on your parameters for "better"  Dura Bond sets up much harder / stronger but is more difficult to sand.  Easy Sand is not as structural, but as the name suggests is much easier to sand.

   I like to use Dura Bond on first coat putting in corners and seams - making sure not to leave anything too high.   Then use Easy Sand or a premixed compound like Plus 3 for second and third coats.

1. 
   bdprops | Dec 14, 2004 12:41am | #51

   So which DuraBond product do you use?

   Thanks, Brian

1. 
   Shoeman | Dec 14, 2004 07:36am | #53

   Mostly I use Dura Bond 90 for putting in corners and first coat on seams.  I ocasionally also use a 20 to run around the room and fill gaps and broken corners before mixing up the 90 for fist coat.

   Edited 12/13/2004 11:45 pm ET by Shoeman

2. 
   Pierre1 | Dec 14, 2004 10:07am | #54

   Thanks guys - I've noted all of this down. It will really help in the future.

2. 
   RW | Dec 14, 2004 02:06am | #52

   You are correct in that they make more than one thing. Generally, the brown paper bag stuff is what most people simply call Durabond. That's at least what I'm referring to. One advantage to the stuff is you can mix it to some extent to the consistancy that you want, so a little thicker for filling voids so it doesn't slump out, or use the short cure time and wait until its almost set and go back over it with a knife to flatten it out.

   The Easy sand stuff also works, but it's not quite as hard cured. Though, the advantage of being able to sand off something that does slump out is worth thinking about. In general, hot water can speed the cure time a little, cold can slow it a little, but mixing the stuff with a paddle full of cured mud, now that will get it going. I'm talking you mixed some 90 minute two hours ago, now you're mixing more. The next batch isn't going to go 90 minutes. It doesn't seem to do that if the tools have residue thats fully cured on them - i.e. days old. "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain

2. 
   woodway | Nov 20, 2006 07:47pm | #60

   I think I fall into your catagory too. I wouldn't make it hanging rock but could do the finish work and patching. More Gooder?

1. 
   RW | Nov 20, 2006 08:16pm | #61

   Yeah. Mo gooder. Like Mo Better. Or . . . ahh. I can't say most of them. They'll get ###-ed.Real trucks dont have sparkplugs

4. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 11, 2004 12:52am | #4

   Plaster of Paris. fiberglass tape over the plaster of Paris and reg.joint compound over. If you have no backing behind fill the hole with news paper.

   Now, how to mix the plaster of Paris is a whole new question.

   CTF

1. 
   JerBear | Dec 11, 2004 02:56am | #5

   You mix plaster of paris by starting with the cold water first poured into the mixing container, maybe an inch or so depending on how much you're going to use.  Start to sprinkle in the plaster lightly so it evenly disperses itself and dissolves.  Keep sprinkling in the plaster till you have about 1/2" of white dry plaster on top then let the water soak into it for a few minutes.  You will start to see it fissure as it is absorbed into the water.  Throw in a little more plaster on top if it shows wetness, let it soak another minute or so.  DO NOT MIX IT until you are ready to use it. When you're ready you can then mix and apply.  Mix it slow like a folding process. If it's still a bit loose keep sprinkling in the plaster till you reach the right consistancy. If you mix plaster of paris this way, you can usually get a 10 to 15 minute work time from it. The trick is not to mix plaster of paris too fast or too soon, and always use cold potable water.  The faster you mix it, or if you use warm water, the quicker the set up time.  Like anything else this just takes plain old practice till you get the feel of it.

1. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 11, 2004 03:15am | #6

   That was my first construction job. Mixing plaster of paris for 2-3 plasterers.

   We made the crown moldings in the shop and install them at high rise buildings in GR. 

   one trick you may add to your 'instructions" Is the use of basket balls or soccer balls. Cut them in half and use them instead of a mixing container.

   This way when the plaster is dry you just turn the half ball inside out and you have a self cleaning mixing ball.

   You can do a lot with plaster of paris if you learn how to use it.

   Good instructions.

   YCF

    

    

    

1. 
   JerBear | Dec 11, 2004 06:54am | #7

   I worked in a casting shop in NYC for about a year and we did everything from sculpting to running and casting huge cornices, fretwork, and relief work for cathedrals, statehouses etc all over the world.  There are so many different types of plaster for different uses, and now they are coming up with different casting synthetics and compounds that make the castings lighter and stronger.  I know what you're thinking...yeah, foam.  But it's not.  It's still plaster base like stuff.

1. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 11, 2004 07:02am | #8

   I knew it. This instruction's can only come from someone who made living from plaster of paris. I may need your help one day on a crazy idea.

   YCF

2. 
   JerBear | Dec 11, 2004 07:07am | #9

   I'm not going anywhere...

3. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 11, 2004 07:12am | #10

   Thanks. now try to thing how we can dublicate the bluestone look on a 2x4  1/2" thick plaster base materials. And it haves to withstand transpotation and cracks.

   Welcome to the EZone.

   Thanks

   YCF Dino

4. 
   JerBear | Dec 11, 2004 03:45pm | #12

   On the wall I take it?

   It sounds like a 'stamping' process much in the same way that they do with concrete.  We used to also do a finish called encaustica or marmorino which is actually an ancient troweled on finish using fine marble dust and slaked lime.  It's beautiful and it looks rough with several layers that you seem to look into but it in fact is quite smooth.

   If you are going for a textured surface and want it to resemble something like blue stone, you have to research it and also play around with plaster on your own.  Look up Evergreene Paint Studios on Google and follow it to the plaster section.  I used to work for them, in fact I think my ugly face is in one of the pictures of their projects.

2. 
   EricPaulson | Dec 11, 2004 05:39pm | #14

   Maybe you know the answer to this.

   Someone showed me to mix d-bond with HOT (I mean HOT) water. I mixes easier and smoother.

   I do it all the time with fine results. Does not seem to affect set time.

   What gives?

   EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,

   With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.

1. 
   mitch | Dec 11, 2004 06:37pm | #15

   i'd like to offer a general thank you to whomever posted one of the slickest drywall patch tricks i've ever heard of a few months back- 

   to patch a hole in an unsupported place, first cut the hole out so it is roughly rectangular then cut a piece of drywall about 2" too big in both dimensions.  flip it over, score and cut away the rock- LEAVING AN INCH WIDE 'FLANGE' IN THE FRONT PAPER FACE around the rest of the rock that fits the hole.  smear a little (too much puckers the paper excessively) mud in and around the hole, slap the patch in, feather it out.  voila! the self-taping, self-supporting patch.  i used this trick three times a few weeks ago and it worked like a dream.

   m

1. 
   JerBear | Dec 11, 2004 06:53pm | #16

   That's called a "Califorinia patch".  I don't know why the name but I live in the NE and have been doing that for years. It works well.

2. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Dec 12, 2004 04:56pm | #35

   Jer, the guy that showed me that tip called it a "hot" patch. I've used it many times without problems.

   blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!

2. 
   JerBear | Dec 11, 2004 06:55pm | #17

   Can't really say, but it works with plaster of paris.  I'll have to try the hot water mixing next time I use the D90.  It makes sense that it would mix smoother.

1. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 11, 2004 07:22pm | #18

   And the best mix of all for small holes and large openings, as well as veneer plaster application and one coat over fiberglass finish..

   The D-plaster mix.

   Regular joint compound mix with latex primer and plaster of Paris. What you have here is all in one mix. We use it for many years to prep before taping and to restore entire buildings the EZ way.

   One guy was applying the mix with a roller and one guy behind was making the walls smooth or texture by just going over with trowel. When the plaster was getting hard to work we just spray water and making the mix soft again,

   Similar to veneer plaster but more forgiving and EZier to apply by anyone with a roller. This thing work like magic plaster,

   OK guys. I' just told you the secret to make EZ money. 2-3 guys can restore the walls in a small house in 1-2 days. No demo  $200-$300 materials and you have a job that is worth $6000.00

   But you have to put your rrass down and learn the mix.

   YPF D. 

   And this is for Doug.   Use your right hand with LBtrowel.

   Edited 12/11/2004 11:25 am ET by YCFriend

2. 
   JerBear | Dec 11, 2004 09:09pm | #22

   Been doing the plaster of paris mix with jc forever but never tried it with the latex primer.  Makes sense, it would seal it off better.  Learn to use a long plasterer's trowel, practice with it and you go like the wind.

3. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 11, 2004 09:24pm | #23

   You don't even have to use the long trowels with the D-mix. You can use one 6'' and one 9'' taping knife to. The good thing is that you can work with the same materials that you already apply on the wall for a longer time.

   with joint compound you can't  re-work or re-coat the same materials.

   With durabond you need a top coat.

   With Veneer plaster you have to be an expert and is a messy job.

   With the D-mix you combine all the benefits of all above methods.

   Easy to apply and recoat and rework the same materials the same day or hour and when you done you don't have to sand. You can say the EZier to apply veneer plaster?

   YCF. 

4. 
   Shoeman | Dec 12, 2004 12:16am | #25

   Dino, I'm interested in this D-mix your refer to.  I don't do a lot of drywall and have never done plaster, so the more detailed info you can provide the better.

   When you mention regular joint compound - you talking a premix like plus 3 or a dry powder like easy sand or something entirely different?

   Latex primer - just primer paint like you buy by the gallon off the shelf, or latex primer like you use on concrete that you want to bond more concrete to - or something entirely different?

   Plaster of Paris - I assume this is a powder - is that all I ask for when I go looking - Plaster of Paris?

   Like I said, all new to me, but willing to learn if you have the patience.  Any brand specific info and approximate ratios to mix would be very helpful.

   Thanks in advance,

   Shoe

5. 
   mikerooney | Dec 12, 2004 12:30am | #26

   P of P is gypsum.

   So is guaging plaster, which is what I use with JC.

   Are we talking about the same thing here?Our quarrel with the world is an echo of the endless quarrel within us.  - Eric Hoffer

6. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 12, 2004 12:48am | #27

   A. The best joint compound to use with the D-mx is the premix stuff. (5 gallon buckets) the green or the plus 3.(the plus-3 is even better)

   B. Cheap PVA latex primer. (Regular wall primer.)

   C. Plaster of Paris. (Regular powder.) 

   Like I said, all new to me, but willing to learn if you have the patience.

   Me? Is you who need to have the patience.

   Start with  a small mix. (10) part joint compound-(2-3) primer and (1) plaster of paris.

   First you mix good the joint compound with the primer and when you ready you mix the plaster of paris with the rest. 

   You can make small repairs or you can do an entire wall 8x20 with one mix.

   After few buckets - bags and can's  and one day in your basement you will be able to make the right mix for the right job.

   good luck.

   YCF

    

   Now,who need's to have the patience?

7. 
   Shoeman | Dec 12, 2004 12:54am | #28

   any thoughts on using this same mix to put in plastic backed, paper faced corner bead - No Coat Ultra Flex Lite ?

   I like the idea of rolling it on, rather than tying to slop soupy mud in the corner

   I like using the No Coat rather than regular paper tape on inside corners - just easier for me to get a nice crisp corner with

8. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 12, 2004 01:31am | #32

   I never use the (No Coat Ultra Flex Lite) stuff. You can try it and let me know.

   But I will not use the D-mix for that.The primer may make the compound to lose the adhesion. I always use fiberglass tape. just in case.  

   And you can roll the reg.compound to. Mix with water. and use heavy lamb skin roller. I use 3/4" thick and cut it with a hack saw to 3-3" small rollers.

   very soon I have to plaster for you.

   Good luck.

   YCf dino

9. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Dec 12, 2004 05:06pm | #36

   YC, I'm no plasterer...so forgive my uninformed question.

   Why do you cut the nine inch roller into 3" rollers? Is that just for small repairs?

   What size roller do you use on a 8' x 20' wall? How thick are you applying the material?

   I'm just confused..but intrigued...

   blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!

10. 
    dinothecarpenter | Dec 12, 2004 06:16pm | #37

    Blue, I'm not a plasterer too.If I was, it will be no need to come up with this stuff.  so  forgive my uninformed question. You're forgived

    The 3" roller is good for taping the corners. Is just EZier to apply the glue (compound) to the walls in order to stick the paper. When you do regular taping and not the D-mix.

    For the D-mix I always use fiberglass tape. Because I can tape and finish the same day. The thickness of the D-mix is about 1/32-1/16. But you can go up to 1/2"-3/4  if needed.

    You apply it with 9'' roller with heavy nap. 3/4 lamp skin is the best. Same way you apply texture paint. (Sand finish) One dip should give you a 4'x4' area. Some times you use the stucco rollers to.

    Whatever works for you. The trick is  not to apply all the materials in one spot. you have to spread the mix out to the largest possible area. Then is EZier to go over and make it smooth with a clean tape knife. 

    But like anything else you need to have patience and learn the technique. But the D-mix is very forgiving and you don't need to be a plasterer.

    good luck.

    YCF Dino

11. 
    konopam | Nov 20, 2006 04:23pm | #55

    Hi everyone,

    I have a problem with truss uplift in my house which makes some pretty nasty nail pops in my hallway. In the past i have paid someone twice to comeout and repair this and guess what, I have loose nasty nail pops for a third time.  I can post a picture later tonight but I just wanted to see if there were any recommendations from the group that deals w/ this probably more than I will -- appreciate any help, i would love to have a nice nail pop free hallway once again.

    sorry for my next question but i was looking thru the thread and am wondering if anyone can tell me what D-mix is?  I have some wall repair from wallpaper and nailpops to take care of and this seems to be used by quite a few.

    Thanks again for all the help provided on this forum,

12. 
    PaulBinCT | Nov 20, 2006 04:44pm | #56

    If you do a search under DMix you'll find several threads devoted to it.  It's basically a mix of standard drywall mud, plaster of paris and PVA primer mixed to a porridge consistancy and applied as a skim coat.  You'll see differing opinions, but I had Dino give me a hands on tutorial and there's no question that with some patience it does what he claims...

    PaulB

13. 
    konopam | Nov 20, 2006 05:31pm | #57

    Hello,

    Can I ask how does this dmix work guys?  If i have a small section that i am going to do by applying this mix of joint compound, some cheap primer and plaster of paris how will the rest of the wall look in comparison?  Also how will this type of stuff work around areas when I have nail pops from truss uplift? I mean does this get really hard or what? 

    Sorry for the questions but I am still searching the site for Dino thread on this

    Thanks

14. 
    PeteDraganic | Nov 20, 2006 05:33pm | #58

    have you repaired the truss uplift situation first?

    http://www.petedraganic.com/

15. 
    mrfixitusa | Nov 20, 2006 06:38pm | #59

    Have you ever used a brush to texture the wet plaster?Here is the texturing brush I bought and have used to make a mild texture which looks kind of like brush marks after everything has dried.^^^^^^

     

    S N A F U (Situation Normal: All Fouled Up)

16. 
    PaineB | Dec 12, 2004 07:09pm | #38

    Hey YC,

    I tried your mix, (you gave me the recipe several months ago), using USG Level 5 compound. Like butter, baby. 

    I haven't had the chance to try the rolling a whole wall trick yet, though. I was tempted in one situation but didn't feel like experimenting with other people's money. 

     

17. 
    blue_eyed_devil | Dec 12, 2004 07:18pm | #39

    I'm going to experiment with that wacky idea a bit too PaineB!

    I don't know why...I don't do repairs...but I just need to know now!

    blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!

18. 
    dinothecarpenter | Dec 12, 2004 07:54pm | #40

    Hey PaineB.

    Don't worry.It works. I use the D-mix on my lawyer's office building. $50.000.00 job and it was done in a month with 3 guys.

    And he was happy. The alternative for him was a total rebuild with $200.000.00 price tag.  And at the end he screw me for the last $1.000.00 He thought I was making to much money from this job.  ...the crook.

    Now, what he don't know was that we spend 3 weeks building custom cabinet's for other jobs at the basement. He ask me one day what is all this plywood at the basement and I' told him I was building few bookcases for him.......if I have the time....the crook.

    And we use the same D-mix on other jobs to. Apartment, buildings churches,houses. It works. We even make special tools to make the job EZier but .....no time for even the bookcases for my ....crook lawyer.

    YCF Dino 

19. 
    Zano | Dec 12, 2004 09:42pm | #41

    Just one question:  Plaster..any type of plaster does not adhere to drywall. It does adhere to blueboard but not to regular drywall.  Mixing one part of plaster and the primer and joint compound..so I gather that the plaster does not affect the bonding of this mix to the drywall..that right?

20. 
    dinothecarpenter | Dec 12, 2004 10:02pm | #42

    Hey Zano.

    With 10 part of joint compound 1-2 primer and only 1 part of plaster paris I don't see any problemos.

     I' start using the D-mix on old houses first to resurface the old plaster  and over the paint.. I use it to tape new drywall for the one day jobs. No problem so far.  

    The only problem is that you have to use what you mix for the day.

    YpF Dino

21. 
    blue_eyed_devil | Dec 13, 2004 12:00am | #43

    Okay Dino...you got me confused again...

    Could I use this slurry ( is that the right word) to cover my garage, which is firetaped?

    blueWarning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!

22. 
    dinothecarpenter | Dec 13, 2004 02:38am | #44

    Yes, you can. And is a good place to learn.

    Send some pictures and good luck.

    YCF Dino

23. 
    JerBear | Dec 13, 2004 03:28am | #45

    Plaster when mixed with jc will stick just fine.  If you're doing a complete skimcoat and you don't have blue board just turn the sheetrock around and let the backside show to skim on.  It has more 'tooth' than the finished side and will take skim coat just fine, even with plain veneer plaster like the diamond mix. Always tape your seams as usual with fiberglass.  I first learned to do flat work from mixing up lime putty with the gaging plaster, which is the same as plaster of paris, it's just a bit coarser.  A lime mix 3:1 is the smoothest finish.  Just for the heck of it one time I kept troweling over the wet set up finish with water and I got it so I could actually see my reflection in it, like finished granite or marble.

24. 
    dinothecarpenter | Dec 13, 2004 05:46am | #46

    J. This is funny.

    I was ready to ask you guys ...Who is this ... . JC guy. Everybody here works with him.  

    Men,I need a brake.

    YCF dino

25. 
    JerBear | Dec 13, 2004 06:12am | #47

    I been singing in the sanctuary all day about this guy JC...sang a solo today about his Ma.  I wonder if in his carpentry days ol' JC used anything like jc.

26. 
    dinothecarpenter | Dec 13, 2004 06:33am | #48

    Thanks for your help.

    Any way,at list I figure it out all by my self. Imagine if I have ask before and someone told me he's a big gc.General contractor.

    YCF. 

3. 
   EricPaulson | Dec 11, 2004 07:45pm | #19

   YC,

   Take a stab at this please?

   Maybe you know the answer to this.

   Someone showed me to mix d-bond with HOT (I mean HOT) water. I mixes easier and smoother.

   I do it all the time with fine results. Does not seem to affect set time.

   What gives?

   EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,

   With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.

1. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 11, 2004 08:48pm | #20

   The hot water may dissolve the particles better. If it works better keep using hot water. Durabond was never my choice due to shrinkage and you can't have a finish coat with one time deal.

   Try the D- plaster mix few times and save your self time and money.

   Two weeks ago I have to help some friends. Add a level and total rebuild.

   100 holes(electricians-plumbers and HVAC)  and they just move in with a newborn baby. Imagine the mess and the dust sanding all the repairs.

   One day with the D-mix ,plaster of Paris and a sponge. No dust ,no mess and no sign of any repairs. The old days my electrician-plumper and HVAC guys loved to work for me. It was the only time that they can actually feel free to do what they really know best.

    Destroy the house.

   YCF

2. 
   EricPaulson | Dec 11, 2004 09:05pm | #21

   Thanks Y. Good lessons.

   BTW, I NEVER sand anymore. I'd rather take a little extra time to skim and feather edge. Sanding is a horrible mess no matter how it's done.

   I hired a taper to do a new house I built. I called him back to do some touch ups. He shows up with a helper and sanding poles with 80 grit paper..........yeah right!

   EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,

   With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.

3. 
   Piffin | Dec 12, 2004 01:15am | #30

   The 80 grit was for the callouses on his knuckles, right? 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   IMERC | Dec 11, 2004 09:26pm | #24

   hot speeds it up..

   really cold water slows the fire off noticebly...

   that can give you added time.... when it fires off it's a now done deal...

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 12, 2004 01:17am | #31

   Have you got a siamese twin named piffin? I just posted same thing! 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   IMERC | Dec 12, 2004 04:23am | #34

   I could deal with that....

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

5. 
   Piffin | Dec 12, 2004 01:13am | #29

   I don't know about yours, but I get faster setting time with hot water. It's a trick to be careful of, but a good one sometimes. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   EricPaulson | Dec 12, 2004 01:40am | #33

   I use mostly d-90.

   I'll often use it to second coat a drywall job, and to coat the cornerbeads.

   I don't time it, but I have never had it set off on me before I was done. Need to have a good plan of attack before you go at it.

   Plus I usually mix no more than 1/2 bag when it's just me troweling. Can't get in to much trouble there.

   Hot water make a nice smooth mix.

   Oh, and about the 80grit, I think the callouses were on his brain. I'd love to tell you the name of his company.........such a contradiction to the finished product. at least in my opinion.

   EricI Love A Hand That Meets My Own,

   With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.

5. 
   hasbeen | Dec 11, 2004 07:59am | #11

   Here's an alternative method:

   Use construction adhesive to glue nearly anything into the hole.  I've even used cans out of the trash...   Then use Durabond.

   OR  cut a scrap of rock that can be slid behind the back of the broken piece.  Slide it into the general area, then use construction adhesive to stick it to the back of the broken piece.  Add a few screws through the face of the broken piece and into the "backer scrap" to secure until glue sets.  Cut a scrap to fill the (presumably) 1/2" deep space of the original broken out piece.  Glue that scrap onto the first piece you put in.  Add a few screws to hold until glue sets.

   Mud over with all purpose.

   I've fixed a few trashed rentals with some big holes that had been kicked or punched into the rock by using this technique.

   Obviously, it's not worth going this route if the hole is small.

   I'm thankful for the loyal opposition!  It's hard to learn much from those who simply agree with you.

6. 
   EricPaulson | Dec 11, 2004 05:35pm | #13

   fill the whole gap or chunk with quick setting compund then tape over it.

   I Love A Hand That Meets My Own,

   With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.