I’m remodeling our family room and would like to install new Craftsman trim (WindsorOne) in the room. In addition, I plan to extend the window header all the way around the room creating a band around the room. There will be a cap on top of the header. My problem is that there are two exisiting built-in bookcases in the room on both sides of the fireplace. The built-in bookcases include fluted faceframes and my new trim will run into fluted faceframes. I want to keep the built-in bookcases, but I’d like to replace the faceframes with flat stock. Can you think of any other option (i.e. somehow filling in the flutes)? I’m concerned that the faceframes may be “glued” to the built-in bookcases.
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Replies
Bondo; shave with a Sureform plane as soon as it "B-stages", then block-sand it flat with 80 & 120. Can be really quick and easy if you catch the Bondo at the right times.
Might get shadowing later with wood movement, but it will be symetrical and "pretty".
Have you thought of wide strips of the iron-on veneer over the whole width of the molding? That might be even easier and better.
Forrest
IMHO, filling in the flutes will be a huge PIA and will almost inevitably crack and or telegraph the lines at some point. I'd rip thin strips the right width and cover them entirely.
PaulB
I like Forrest's idea with the bondo, another though would be to rip 1/8" mdf to fit over the face frame, either after the bondo or not using bondo at all. Depending on the width of the flute I doubt that you could push a dimple into the mdf. Paints well and wont shrink although I've never had any problems with using bondo.
Doug
I had been playing with Bondo literally moments before I typed that. These scoops were never symmetrical across the back; didn't matter because they were only for rear-engined dragsters - no hood.
View Image
finished pic at http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=80763.1
I flat LOVE to shape and fill and smooth and block-sand - would have loved to learn to be a custom bodyman.
Forrest
I flat LOVE to shape and fill and smooth and block-sand - would have loved to learn to be a custom bodyman
Me too. I like working with bondo, timing it just right and shaping it to the desired look. I can remember back when I couldnt stand to sand anything. But once I saw some really cool things that I could do I was hooked and never complained about it again.
BTW, I cant see the final results, they must be in the Tav and I'm on a self imposed exile from that place.
Doug
Bondo would work well and finish out flawlessly, but to get a super-smooth finish it needs to be flattened out carefully. I like to apply two coats of bondo scraped flush and allowed to shrink, followed by a couple coats of spot putty or painters glaze. Sand as needed to flatten inbetween coats.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
get the diameter of the flute, buy corresponding dowel rod, split on the table saw and install, fill small gaps with filler
I am in favor of the strip to cover, based on my limited preception with what I can see from here. It will make it bolder in the vertical vs the horizontal and it will help avoid shadow lines.
If you do go with the bondo, there are some things to do in prep fiurst.
sand the flutes enought to remove any glaze or polish. Then dril a 3/16" hole about every inch or two. wipe it down with a tack clothe or rag with acetoine.
This will make for a good bond with the bondo and the old
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