I have a slight problem. I have a slab foundation and I have all my interior walls laid out. Where I was going to put a door I have changed my mind. So now where I want to put the door. I need another bolt. (in the slab) But I have radaint heat in the floor. How can I find where to drill. Somebody suggested a stud finder. I tried it but I can’t tell if it is rebar or tubing. And I really don’t know if it is really working. Any suggestion. Thanks Hat
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Well this is a little too late....... but for those out there who are reading..... this is where I like the fact that DW insists I take pictures of walls and under floors before closing.
If you are just moving the door down along the same wall, Do you know the pitch of the tubing? Measure down and hope for the best.
BEFORE you do this, lets see if someone has a better idea.
One of the disadvantages of radiant floors. If the tubing is the type that has aluminum foil in it you might rent a tone tracer used by plumbers and telephone repairman, connect the generator to the tubing and you should be able to locate is pretty well. If the system is operational another possiblility is an ultrasonic leak detector, you can hear the water flowing with them. A third possibility is to use an IR camera, let the slab cool then start it up and you should get a quick picture of the piping.
It ain't aluminum FOIL pal.
Whatever you do, avoid putting a hole in the tubing. Much work! Edmund Scientific sells heat/color sensitive plastic film (the kind used in desk thermometers). This might work from a cold start up in the slab. The IR camera may also work. On bare concrete you may try pouring some rubbing alcohol on the floor to see if evaporation rates show between the tubing runs. I offer the above as an owner with the same situation.
There was a great thread on just this very problem back before the downfall.
I had an insurance customer that had a hot water line (not radiant
heat) burst in a slab. We had no idea where the leak was, just the general area. The plumber was ready to start busting up the kitchen floor. My customer works in the service department for our local Caterpillar dealer. He brought home a heat detecting gun that they use to identify hot spots in radiators on big equipment. He was able to pin point the leak and make the repair much, much easier.
Someone here was able to tell us the name of this tool, but ask around. It might be an easy solution.
Good luck. Greg.
This may be a case for adhesives. Unless the fastener you are dealing with is structural then epoxy may suffice. How deep is the tubing? Even a shallow hole with epoxy may suffice.
Has anyone suggested barium in the tubing and checking with a geiger counter and x-rays?
Has anyone suggested barium in the tubing and checking with a geiger counter and x-rays?
I really, really hope this was a joke.
Has anyone suggested barium in the tubing and checking with a geiger counter and x-rays?
I really, really hope this was a joke
I’ve been away for a fortnight. Yes it is a joke, unless of course, ones doctor suggests checking ones lower G.I. with a barium enema. Then it is no laughing matter.No problems, only opportunities.
I can't recall where I read it, some JLC article I think, but I've read that you can find the tube locations by wetting the slab then turning on the boiler and circulating pump. Supposedly, the areas just above the tubing will dry first.
Having never tried this, I can neither confirm nor deny that it works. However, if your system is functional, it's an easy thing to try.
I'll try to find the article.
Jon
It works. I tried it more than once.
Which ever way works, do yourself a favour and make a sketch or take pictures for future referance.
Some plumbers and many pool repair contractors use very sensitive microphones to detect flowing water to find leaks. While it would probably cost an arm and a leg to get them to do the job professionally you might get a sympathy vote and get them to do it on the side. Just a thought.
I know of one pool contractor that uses the highly technical method of pressurizing the lines and using a screwdriver to the deck and putting their ear on the end to find the leaks. Works within a couple of feet.
Somehow get warm water running through it. Then read the surface temps with an infrared thermometer. If you have to buy one they are only a hundred bucks or so.
All this conjecture is well and good but you can simply glue the new plate down with a polyurethane based construction adhesive and be done with it.
Piffin isn't the only one who can take the fun out of a thread!!
Mr T
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
But will this make for a good job? Just trying to learn here...
How good will it be? As good? Better? Almost as good? Why?
I tend to be sceptical about gluing stuff so please tell me more.
Thanks!
Youare simply filling in a door opening that has been cut out of a bottom plate that is already fastened to the concrete, Yes
Poly urethane glues are stronger than the concrete and the lumber.
You can also double up a section of the bottom plate, 2' past on either side and just shorten any studs that will fall on it.
If this is not a bearing wall there will be very little stess on it, if it is bearing, all the better cause the pressur will be straight down.
I dont know may be he plans on adding a turnbuckle for an indoor wrestling ring, he will be straightening frames of wrecked cars.
Maybe he has a lot of time on his hands?
Just trying to make life simpler for him!
TDo not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Youare simply filling in a door opening that has been cut out of a bottom plate that is already fastened to the concrete
I missed that obvious detail. Thanks for responding.