Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 04, 1999 01:59am | #1

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   John,
   We have this type of material for some time here down under. We don't seem to have any problems with it, the reverse in fact as it gives us dead straight timber to work with. as far as glue failing they use some type of resoucinal resin thats waterproof. When you say millwork do you mean finishing mouldings? If so we have never had that type of problem here and I wonder what is being done different?
   Mark

2. 
   John_N. | Mar 04, 1999 03:18am | #2

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   Millwork was probably the wrong chioce, I was refering to trim, such as brickmoulding used by some door and windo manufacturers. I have a few on my current hose where every finger joint in the brickmold has come apart. Since it's an exterior door I would of assumed they used exterior rated glue. You can see how I got curious when I saw studs made this way. I had seen finger jointed studs before, but usually in non-load bearing applications such as some interior wall framing.

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   Guest_ | Mar 04, 1999 03:32am | #3

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   John we too have the problems you mention with the finger jointed trim. We have not seen any of the fingered studs. We have seen and used the finger jointed 1 by's with good results. Wonder about using the studs in load bearing conditions

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   Guest_ | Mar 04, 1999 06:16am | #4

   *My experience... has not been good using finger jointed stud material. We cull out almost as many bad studs as using regular studs, and they dont stay any straighter in the walls than regular studs. so the reason our builder specs them.... must be the price... but in my opinion... saving $250 on a house full of studs... isnt worth it...stay with the proven product...solid wood studs

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   josh | Mar 04, 1999 08:35am | #5

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   I applaud the timber industry for trying to find a use for all the wood cutoffs. I am sure that they will find a good use for them in the home industry. We have seen them in use even in load bearing situations but have also seen problems with them twisting etc. A friend and fellow contractor uses them in interior non load bearing walls, not to save money but for environmental reasons (recycling).I am watching his results. I would rather spend the extra dollar a stud for non-fingerjointed 2x6 when building exterior walls. If a bid comes down to saving $250 to get the job buy using the finger-studs I guess I would go build something else.

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   Guest_ | Mar 04, 1999 12:00pm | #6

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   Bill,
   Don't know how your timber is graded but ours is 90% machine graded at time of milling and dressing. This involves a pressure roller as the timber passes through the thicknesser.We have found that finger jointed studs actually come out rating a lot higher than stick timber of the same species. I guess as long as the joint and glue integrity hold ( and the manufacturers have to provide a 50 year garauntee under law ) what you have effectively done is eliminate the items that cause structural weakness in timber ( shakes, knots etc ).
   Regards
   Mark

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   Guest_ | Mar 08, 1999 08:48am | #8

   *My experience with finger jointed studs and trim is that it's better than solid wood, but just barely.Painters have to use oil primer on the trim cause the joints raise up all funky.None of it is dead nut straight when we get to using it. Seems like it oughta be, though.Straw studs and trim is what I'm waitin' for.

6. 
   John_N. | Mar 08, 1999 08:48am | #7

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   I recently visited a new home under construction. I was amazed, but not suprised, to see the entire frame of the house built with finger jointed lumber (end to end pieces). I am curious on the reliability of these. I know most finger jointed lumber used for millwork will fail if any moisture gets into the joints over time. What do the rest of you think?