Replies

1. 
   DanH | Jan 17, 2013 07:14am | #1

   "Popcorn" would probably

   "Popcorn" would probably cover it better.

2. 
   calvin | Jan 17, 2013 07:18am | #2

   John
   No, the marks will probably show through.

   Water may loosen the tape, sanding may be your only alternatve. Have you scraped most of it off?

1. 
   johndrew | Jan 17, 2013 11:23am | #3

   What is a good texture machine? I see Wagner 520000 which has good ratings. I have a large air compressor and could use the hopper system. The desired look is as fine an orange peel as possible.  Can I texture over the side walls that have been painted?

1. 
   calvin | Jan 17, 2013 01:11pm | #4

   John

   I'm not a painter nor a texture applicator-I call a good painter and magic Dave the drywaller-he can match up most any texture that has been done in the last70 yrs. 

   However, your fine orange peel can almost be done with a thicker nap roller.  If you'd rather have the splatter type look, then thinned down compound is the way it's usually done.   Not knowing the proper mix, test sprays on scrap drywall is a good way to do it-however, you'll need to get the consistancy to what you like, then replicate the amount of mud and liquid in enough of a batch that will cover of what you want.  Otherwise it'll look like you ran out and had to mix more......................and generally look crappy.

   I would call someone that is good at this.

   As to texture over painted walls/ceilings?   Sure, but the surface must be clean.  In some cases we'll prime b/4 texture.  The primer bonds well, the texture bonds to the fresh primer well.

   I didn't help much, but that's what I know.  I don't by any means specialize in one area of remodeling, but I do know when it's time, money and talent prudent to call a QUALITY sub.

   Best of luck.

1. 
   johndrew | Jan 17, 2013 04:52pm | #5

   Thanks for the information. When I removed the popcorn, I have some light trowel marks. I got a box of mud from a large box store and tried to apply to cover them. The mud seems to want to dry and crumble when I apply. Should I clean the celing of dust before applying the mud? If so, what do I clean it with. Should I thin the mud down some. Being direct from the store, I thought it would be a ready to apply mud. 

1. 
   calvin | Jan 17, 2013 06:28pm | #6

   John

   Not seeing it, can only offer advice that may apply.

   Wipe down the area-damp sponge-damp rag.  NOT WET.

   That should leave you clean enough.

   If if continues, you may have to spot prime with a Zinzer product-Bins-any stain blocking-primer.

   The bucket or box mud should be wet enough-if it's REAL stiff, sure-you can thin it a little.  But once put in the bag and then the box, it really can't dry out until it's opened.

   The downside to using box mud, once you open it, you really should use it all and at least get it all in a bucket.  The thin slime on the plastic bag will dry quickly and soon crumble down into the good stuff.  This will produce "hitchhikers", those things in mud that leave slight lines as you trowel it on.

   Use at least a 6" knife.  Using a small putty knife, you're going back and forth which could lift what you got, leave ridges etc.

   If you just scraped off the nubs of the popcorn, the slop might still be on the ceiling-that's the almost smooth stuff that went up with the shot popcorn.  If it was never painted nor primed b/4 of after the popcorn was shot, you may want to get it primed (all) b/4 you continue.

   How old is this place, was the popcorn pretty "decent" b/4 you scraped it down.  Did you use a pump sprayer and wet it down with water  prior to scraping?

2. 
   johndrew | Jan 17, 2013 08:27pm | #7

   Thanks for the advise. The house is 25 years old. I had a fire and it had smoke damage. I used a pump sprayer and wet it down and waited about 5 min. Much of it came off in big sheets lke a 8x11 piece of paper and it had beed painted.  I am using a 8" knife. it goes on pretty good but when I try to smooth out the mud on 2or3 time , I get a drag effect of removing the mud.

   Also when removing it the tape on the ceiling side came loose when the knife went under it. Can I just add mud behind the tape and push it up to ceiling or do I have to redo the tape?

   I don't need a orange peel it I can get a smooth finish.  I saw one which was a very small orange peel and when looking at it on the ceiling,it looked great like a smooth texture

   
3. 
   calvin | Jan 17, 2013 08:27pm | #8

   John

   Thanks for the pictures.

   First-that drag is because in the time it takes to do the later passes with the knife, the new wet mud has softened the skim left on the ceiling. 

   Assuming it's not near a taped joint (seams or corners) then that would be my guess.  Wipe it down real good and try again. 

   or

   wipe it down and then prime with a quickdrying stain killing primer.

   Use a spray Bins if it's not much of an area.  Roller might peel it off too.

   Loose tape-yes, if you can get it under it.  Otherwise use white glue or even wood glue and then mud over.

4. 
   johndrew | Jan 17, 2013 11:00pm | #9

   I stand and applaud your expertiese. I put Zinzer oil primer on the places where I "guaged" the ceiling with the knife. Then let it dry and tried the mud again and it flowed over and into mydefects to make a smooth texture. Thanks again for your ususal support of old people like me.

5. 
   calvin | Jan 18, 2013 06:26am | #10

   john

   I'm only a few yrs behind you.............

   And nothing's free buddy-it's Friday and this aftn, you're buying.