? finish edges on turret with Hardiplank
Hope someone can help me with this. We are planning on replacing 4,000 FBM of cedar siding and replacing with HardiPlank. Before this site changed I read quite a few good comments about it (can’t seem to find them now). Question is: we have a turret and bay with angles of 22 1/2 and I am looking for a better way to finish at the joint. Currently the cedar is just bevel cut and butted to each other with caulking. This has separated and warped. It was suggested to run a 1×4 on either side of the edge but the distance from the edge to the window trim (also 1×4 and painted contrasting color) is about 4 inches so I don’t thing 1×4 next to 1×4 will look right.
We were planning on using 1×4 cedar on the outside corners and butting the siding to it, is there a better way?
And I read that there should be a gap at the butt joint which is caulked but the supplier here says it should be butted tight. We live on the West Coast. Any thoughts on this?
Also, ‘approximately’ how long would such a job take with two people? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Krystyna
Replies
Hardiplank is good stuff. But, you really don't want
the ends exposed. It should be butted up against a 1-by.
It's maybe possible to bevel cut it, but you'll run through
saw blades like crazy. The best way to cut it is with electric
shears. They will only do a 90 degree cut. Around $350 for
the shears. Would not do a job without them.
About the gap - Done it both ways. Seems to work much better
with the gap. Looks lumpy if you don't gap it. Maybe not
important with short pieces. Also, it can be blind-nailed.
You'll find unless your walls are perfectly flat the siding will
not lay perfectly on the previous course. You will have to
put in a few face nails here and there. Does not seem to be
a big issue. Make sure you have your nail gun adjusted so
the heads don't get driven into the siding. It can shatter.
No idea how long it will take for your job. Did a house with
2 people and 12000 SF hardiplank in about 2 weeks. A lot of
time is spent caulking. A lot of time to fit gables and such.
Straight runs are quick.
I recently resided a house with cement plank and trimmed the corners with a cedar cove moulding that was special ordered through one of my suppliers. I can't recall the specific name of it, but it's clear wood and we backprimed and painted it. Though my application was 90 degree corners, a little effort could modify it for the 45 degree corner in your situation because the stuff is thick enough that there's room to work with. Overall, it would be narrower (about 3" overall) and give your corners a cleaner look.
Leave the gap...gives the caulk a better bite.
The shears mentioned earlier are the way to go. I use Porter cCables and paid a little over $200 for them and have done 2 houses with now problems. They're fast, accurate and there's no dust.
Some people would bitch even if they were hung with a new rope.