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Tru-Oil by Birchwood Casey...
http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=142763&FamilyID=3979
-Paul
Thanks, Thats what I needed. Have you used it?
Yes - used it on a 50 cal Hawken and the stock turned out great.-p
It depends on your intended use. On field guns, I prefer boiled linseed oil. Most of the film forming finishes, such as lacquers, or varnishes, leave you with a finish that is hard to touch up when it gets scratched.
BLO is very easy to touch up as needed.
And, no finish actually protects a wood stock from water.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5531&title=PRO-CUSTOM%20OIL%20GUNSTOCK%20FINISH
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
- Fyodor Dostoyevski
Pro custom oil or Permalyn has worked well for me. I have made a few stocks and used both with great results.
ML
Old timers used to use BLO and apply it hot, then wipe off the excess and rub it in by hand. A LOT of elbow grease.
Tru oil is great and repairs easily if you're gonna use it for hunting, and not just a wall hanging. Coat all surfaces, inside and out. Three coats. Buff the last ones with 4/0 steel wool. Or, 2/0 if you want to kill the shine so the damn geese won't see you...
Look for Linspeed oil, which is a blend of boiled linssed oil and bees & parrafin wax that can be applied room temperature. It can go on as is, or it can be lightly buffed to a nice low sheen.
Now, for indestructable field finsh, nothing beats multiple coats of warm BLO until the wood will take no more. Then melted beeswax buffed in. Only down side is that if it gets hot out, it will sweat, and that sweat will be messy. It will all be natural, though.
Ahhhh the smell of Lin-speed and Hoppes No.9...almost as good as bacon and coffee.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Lin-speed and Hoppes No.9...almost as good as bacon and coffee
Coffee, bacon, lin-speed, Hoopes #9--that is aromatherapy for me <G>
Pan-fried "high" bacon and Sweets BP solvent--but that's from one too many mornings with the Redezvous crowd <g> . . .
Funny how Casey's GunScrub or CLP or BreakFree just aren't the same . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I have Gpa's Mod.50 Win. 12ga.semi. Dammed if the forestock isn't split where the breakdown screw is. It's so oiled after all these yrs., there ain't no re-gluing it. Gotta keep my on the firewood for a curly hunk of Black Walnut and send both parts to Dood-a-bug..he's looking like a gun smith.
Got me an old jar of Linspeed and it's GOTTA be from the 70's..still viable ..amazing.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Rub both surfaces of the break with mineral spirits, and then use a polyurethane glue, and clamp it really tight. The shrink wrap "flat twine", followed with rubber bands should work well as a clamping system.
Dammed if the forestock isn't split where the breakdown screw is. It's so oiled after all these yrs., there ain't no re-gluing it.
Gonna guess there's no for4ceing the split then using gorilla to reaassemble (usually isn't).
Saw a Krag from my ggf's generation had a chicago screw in it--go figure.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
Rebuilt a British Enfield .303 a few years back, and had the same problem with the upper stock where it's really thin. Cleaned it good with mineral spirits and naptha, then epoxied it. Seemed to hold real good. And that wood was drippin' oil still after 60 years...
Funny, same Gpa gave me his Enfield MkIV Jungle Carbine, he got it in WW2 when he was N.Africa. It had been sportster ized somewhere along the way.
I sold it, couldn't hit the broad side of a barn from inside the barn, it was so wore out.
Anyway, thanks all ,,but its more of serious crack than a real life open split , I may try it again ( I think I glued it when I was 16) with better glue.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
You can soak the forend in acetone for 24 hours to draw the oil from the stock. This removes the finish but it's next to impossible to get a glue bond in oil soaked wood.If you can open the crack use brown Arcaglas http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1033&title=ACRAGLAS~ warm the wood with a lamp or hair dryer for 10 or 15 min prior to applying glue. Use a shop vac to draw the glue through the crack. Wrap with neoprene tubing to clamp for 24 hours.If you can't open the crack, warm the wood with a lamp or hair dryer for 10 or 15 min prior to applying a thin CA glue. Again you can use a shop vac to draw the glue through the crack. Clamp for 24 hours.
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.- Fyodor Dostoyevski
Thanks, luckily, there is no finish..just oil. This gun is 50 or so yrs old.
I may just bust apart the whole way and like you say, soaker up good with Acetone..I have a gallon. I also have scads of CA glues in diff. viscosity and zip kicker.
Funny, my guitar repair vise is actually a vise for gunsmiths. It has swivel jaws that conform to odd angles, yet still can clamp powerfully.
I'll get round to it one of these days, I don't shoot this often, just have it for home defense and rabid wildlife control..I once shot a rabid ground hog and I think he was yanking the buckshot out and throwing it back at me..tough lil bugger.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Them young of the year whistle pigs eat well, once they reach 10 lbs or so the meat gets much tougher.
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.- Fyodor Dostoyevski
I was headed out to work at about 0700 and it was in the yard, kinda staggering around. He saw me and CAME AT ME! I mean, just stagger/bolted towards me.
I went in the house and was thinking about getting the gun or let it wander away..I told the kid about it ( he was fixing to leave too) and he had to go out and see. Sure enough it had wandered away, but saw him, and came after him too.
Not wanting to take a chance on the dog or a cat getting into a struggle, I offed it..it definitly had some serious problem. It got cremated in the burn barrel.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Acraglas. Damn, I used that stuff 40 years ago to bed actions and barrels. Didn't know they still made it. Forgot to put the release agent on a Mauser action once.
Damn tough to get out...
Thanks to all. Definitely will be used in the field and probably a little abused, so Tru oil it is.
Might be a little late here, but if you are still prepping for finish, dampen the wood and raise the grain,and while still slightly damp, scrape with broken glass before final, final sanding w/320
Oil shows EVERY little boo-boo from sanding.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Not too late. The guy I am making it for is a hunter and a bit of a abuser, I like the scraping idea but I think 220 is all he is getting. It is a freebee job. Thanks
I hand rubbed boiled linseed oil on my Benjamin .22 pellet rifle stock, years ago. Many years ago. Still looks great.