Replies

1. 
   TomMGTC | Apr 19, 2006 07:25pm | #1

   Waterlox. Easy to apply, durable, easy to repair 

   Tom

   Douglasville, GA

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 19, 2006 07:37pm | #2

   We have a cherry countertop and elected to simply oil it periodically (about once a year.) We just use a product available from the hardware store for countertops, cutting boards, etc., so it's food safe. We cut on it, eat on it, roll out dough on it, you name it. Any stains just get sanded out at oiling time. We have no illusions that this counter is going to look like a piano top. We expected it to achieve a worn, "antique" look and we like it that way. If you want a pristine, glossy surface, your are advised look elsewhere.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

3. 
   shady | Apr 20, 2006 01:27am | #3

   I have cherry countertops in my kitchen.  I like Watco products and have used them for years.  I started with a thorough application of Watco Natural Danish Oil finish.  After 3 days I started applying Watco Wipe-on poly.  It is a thinned down poly urethane finish that you apply with one of those super fine sponges.  It dries in about 4 hours.  I put I think about 20 coats on.  I also oiled and coated the bottom and sink cutout, just not as much as the surface.

   I trimmed the front and sides (breadboard style) with black walnut.  It is about 3-4 years old now and looks good.  There are some dings and dents in it if you look real close.  Over all I am really happy with it.

   I also wanted to just oil it and in fact I built a cherry couter top in the early 80's in my first house.  The present owner (a friend) still just periodically applies food grade oil to it and says it looks great.   I've always heard if you want to oil something like a counter to follow this application method:

   Oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and then yearly after that.  Should work.  Good luck, cherry is a real beautiful wood.  Your guests will be amazed.

1. FHB Editor
   JFink | Apr 20, 2006 04:27pm | #6

   Shady,

   Any chance you could post a picture of that cherry cabinet with walnut breadboard ends? Sounds really nice and I'd love to take a look.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

1. 
   shady | Apr 20, 2006 09:19pm | #7

   Justin,

   I'll go take a picture.  I have never post a photo in the forum but I'll give it a shot.

2. 
   shady | Apr 20, 2006 09:41pm | #8

   Here are a few pictures.  I have not made cab doors yet, and if my wife knew I was posting pictures of the kithen on the internet w/o cleaning up, well...

   sorry for multiple attachments.

   I could take some better shots later.

1. 
   BOBABEUI | Apr 20, 2006 09:52pm | #9

   Looks really nice, like the combination of cherry/walnut and I see the cherry has started to darken.    

2. FHB Editor
   JFink | Apr 21, 2006 04:37pm | #10

   Really nice look Shady! I'm curious how you prepared for shrink/expansion of the cherry though? It looks like the breadboards are joined with another strip of walnut along the front edge of the counter (running with the grain). Did you set it up so that the cherry expands towards the backsplash, ensuring the the front edge will remain the same?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

1. 
   shady | Apr 21, 2006 06:56pm | #12

   Justin,

   yes the cherry counter is "fixed" at the front edge.  The screws attaching the counter in the middle and back go through slotted holes in the cabinet frame allowing expansion/contraction.  The breadboard walnut/cherry joint along the side is a tongue (cherry) and groove (walnut).  This enabled me to have a fixed joint at the front corners of the walnut trimming.  Where I could I finish nailed the breadboard walnut edge to the cabinet.  In other places it is just a tight fit.  Initially some dried urethane squeezed out in a couple of joints.  I scraped it off and have not had any breadboard trim joints actually open up.

   on the island counter there is no backsplash, just a 2x2 block of cherry concealing the back edge of counter and allowing for expansion/contraction.  

   On the cabinets along the wall the backsplash is attached directly to the countertop.  On top of the backsplash is another piece of cherry as a ledge.  This ledge is attached to the wall and just sits on top of the backsplash with an overhang.  The small amount of expansion/contraction of the  counter/backsplash combination  results in an undetectable change in the amount of overhang of the ledge. 

   So far I have had no trouble.  I air dried the cherry and walnut for about a year and before that it was stickered but not covered for a year.

3. 
   chascomp | Apr 21, 2006 04:42pm | #11

   Very nice!

4. 
   Claymaker | Apr 20, 2006 05:53am | #4

   I installed quartersawn spalted sycamore countertops in my kitchen, finished with 2 coats of Waterlox. It's a penetrating tung oil finish with a drier. I'm satisfied with it, and would use it again. Wood countertops don't get stains, they develop a a rich patina.

   Clay Foster
   http://www.home.earthlink.net/~claypen
1. 
   jakers | Apr 20, 2006 02:59pm | #5

   Thanks for all of the advice.  I definitely do want that aged patina look--the glossy finish on my table is what drives me crazy because it shows all of the scratches.  I think I will sand down the table and use the same finish on it and the countertops. 

   You guys are the best!

   Lori