Replies

1. 
   Lansdown | May 01, 2006 04:55pm | #1

   I would recommend Waterlox tung oil. Mine turned out beuatifully and I have no problem damp mopping them as well.

2. 
   paintguy | May 01, 2006 04:56pm | #2

   Good morning,
   I had a client who wanted the most natural appearance for all of her wood. This included all interior trim details as well as her floors. We used Tung oil for all the trim and the flooring contractor used it for the floors .

   2 years after she had the floors sanded and finished in Polyurethane. The tung oil look was great until summer hit and mud and other adult beverages landed on these beautiful floors. We still use the Tung oil on the trim and it looks amazing. But she never looked back on putting a protective finish on the floors.

   Jon

1. 
   Lansdown | May 01, 2006 05:03pm | #3

   Question, how many coats and what sheen of tung oil are you using on trim. I'm about to start mine - all clear pine vertical grain casing and base.

1. 
   paintguy | May 01, 2006 05:30pm | #4

   TGNY,
   we used three in total. She wanted the wood to appear to have no finish at all so we used the satin I think. Each manufacturer uses a different term but it was the lowest possible.It does look great but we do renew it with one coat each spring.Jon

3. 
   MikeFitz | May 01, 2006 08:10pm | #5

   I second the vote for Waterlox.  Waterlox isn't technically a pure tung oil (other can explain this difference better than I can), so it actually applies and wears differently than pure tung oil- better for floors, I think.  I did my wide plank white pine in my timberframe 2 years ago, and yes, it does wear.  I don't know if poly would be much more wear resistant on a softwood floor, and Waterlox is easier to touch up if you are into that sort of thing.  I'm not, unless the damage is major.  The rest I just chalk up to wear and tear.  If I wanted a tougher floor, I would have done oak- but that just wouldn't have looked right in my house.

    

1. 
   dtlyme | May 01, 2006 11:01pm | #6

   Thanks everyone - we will look into the Waterlox!-Dana

1. 
   RichBeckman | May 02, 2006 05:32am | #8

   I post this in every Waterlox thread.It's been awhile since I used Waterlox. The can said that it dries overnight or so. But the website says that it takes seven days to cure.I learned this the hard way. I had to go back and redo the finish when the customer went on vacation. HUGE difference.After it is dry, light traffic in clean stocking feet is ok, but in the first few days it will really pick up dirt. I think some have posted the idea of putting a paper runner down, but pick it up for overnight, the curing finish needs oxygen. Seems like I read that a fan moving air in the room is helpful.Once the week is up, it is really nice.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.

1. 
   jc21 | May 02, 2006 08:39am | #9

   Spiffin' up the old Rooftop Bordello, huh   :o)

1. 
   RichBeckman | May 02, 2006 05:33pm | #11

   "Spiffin' up the old Rooftop Bordello, huh :o)"Well, maintenence isn't really my thing, but sometimes something just needs to be done.:)And remember, it is a Rooftop Ranch & Bordello. The Bordello isn't on the roof. We are civilized here.
   Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.

2. 
   Gene_Davis | May 02, 2006 08:00pm | #12

   And as for application, use a lambswool applicator head mounted to a pole.  No need to do brushwork on your knees, except for cutting details at perimeters.

   I use their original sealer/finish for two coats, then a final (or two) of their satin finish.  Beautiful!

1. 
   dtlyme | May 03, 2006 03:12am | #13

   Got it all! Lambswool applicator. Done. Perhaps I can do this without getting my hands dirty!! Hah. Thank you all very very much.-Dana

4. 
   McDesign | May 01, 2006 11:11pm | #7

   I would have to warn about using poly on soft floors - it will crack and haze and track when you dent or scrape the soft floor. 

   We have 1886 and 1916 pine floors, and have used Watco or Behr tung oil throughout - two sopping coats about an hour apart on 120-grit sanded wood, buffed in with a heavy floor polisher and a 14" steel wool pad, & wiped up with old t-shirts - leave no wetness on the floor - it will never dry right, and leave shiny spots.

   Some of our floors have been done for 12 years, and we have never recoated anything. 

   Forrest

5. 
   jc21 | May 02, 2006 08:41am | #10

   Another vote for Waterlox and ditto to what Rich Beckman said.