I am about to begin finishing my basement and I am considering the use of metal studs vs. wood and I have been told by a couple of different sources (a friend & Home Depot associate) as to the method to fasten the base molding after the walls have been finished.
One person tells me that I’ll need to screw that base (wood) molding into the metal studs, while the other tells me that it’s OK to nail. Because I have a pneumatic nailer, I would rather use it, but only if it works.
So, my question is, can I use my pneumatic finish nailing gun on metal studs?
Thanks in advance for the help!
Kevin
Replies
You could use finish trim screws (with a small head), but the hole is still significantly larger than a nail hole. Alternatively, install continuous blocking between studs at all trim lines. Also along sides of openings.
Finished a couple of basements with metal studs, including my own. The trick I used was to use construction adhesive and finish nail at an angle just to hold it while the glue dries. Works like a charm, but would hate to ever have to remove it later.
Hanging doors is another issue. you need something solid to screw the frames to.
Ive finished only one basment with metal studs, and i will NEVER go back to them. there are SO many problems with them, they take forever to cut unless you have a cutoff saw. and the screws to fasten them together are a pain, and expensive.
Is it paint or stain grade?
I'd go with screws if it was paint grade
If it was stain grade I'd use construction adheasive and nails to hold it until the glue set.
Kevin-- I frame doorways 1-1/2" higher and 3" wider than needed when I use steel studs. I then install a 2x liners so I have something to hang the door jamb on. I fasten the base like someone else mentioned- I use construction adhesive and use gun nails basically as clamps until the glue sets.
Hey Kevin,
Steel studs work just fine for residential work. I assume you are going to cover the studs with drywall and maybe paneling or some such. Shooting nails into this is no problemo. Just give a little bit of toenailing to the angle of the nails as you are shooting them and this will work real good and "suck" the trim down just fine. I've done this a lot in retail stores and never had a problem.
As far as the doors go you definitely want some wood in the rough opening to give you something solid to screw your hinges and strike plate on to. This can be accomplished in a couple of ways. One real easy way is just to screw a wood stud to the inside face of the steel studs forming your rough opening. You can also just slightly rip down the wood stud and nest it inside the steel stud. Either technique works just fine.
As far as being hard to cut just try this. First, do a Google and look up Deitrich or USG and look under their sections on steel studs. It will give you all the info you need to use proper techniques to efficiently construct the steel framing. Use 25 ga. metal and just cut with a pair of aviation snips.
Have Fun,
Cork -- Now doing High End Residential in North Chicago!
when I used to frame with them I could gang cut them by leaving them bundled and using a bandsaw. Just make sure the other end of the bundle squared up. Steel studs rock!
Lay down a pressure treated sill plate first and then your bottom track on top of that. Not only does it give you something to nail base to it also keeps the track from rusting out from condensation or mop water.
I'll go with Rick on the pressure treated bottom plate, that would solve alot of present and future problems.
If you are using 3" baseboard, you can angle the top nail into the wood. For baseboard over 3" I would 'krimp nail' (shoot one left - one right) at the top, and for baseboard over 4" I would glue and krimp nail.
Turtleneck
I always add wood blocking into the tracks of the base track and mark where they are on the floor.
I add full wood studs rather than metal where doors go, inserted into the base and top tracks as I would if it were metal. Makes life real easy and is no biggie to do.
Be well
andy
My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I use Corks method. Been doing metal studs for over twenty-five years in commercial and residential. Have never used treated lumber for sole plates because all of the metal is galvanized. Fasten plates to floor with PADs or just use tappcons. I do go to heavier gauge studs at the door rough openings. This takes a lot of the wiggle and flex out of the wall at those points and make for more solid feeling door operations. I also add blocking at each side of the door openings to land the baseboard too. There is generally enough meat around the opening for cassing, but not enough to catch the end of the baseboard where it meets the cassing.
Dave