FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

finish nails for treated lumber

LIVEONSAWDUST | Posted in Construction Techniques on November 13, 2008 02:25am

Are 15 guage angled gun nails available in hot dipped galvanized or just hot galvanized?

This is for fastening trim to treated lumber, its my understanding that only hot dipped should be used for this application

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. TomE | Nov 13, 2008 02:32am | #1

    You should be able to find stainless in that size.

     

  2. User avater
    CaptainMayhem | Nov 13, 2008 02:46am | #2

    I'm not too sure about the difference in nails for that application, however I have used 16 ga. finish nails(just straight up galvies) to trim/ edge out deck boards with great success...that is at least, no one has ever complained and I have gone back to a few of those houses for different jobs and didn't notice anything wierd where I had used the normal galvies..I'd say go for it...

    All I ever wanted in life was an unfair advantage...

    1. arcflash | Nov 13, 2008 03:42am | #3

      I trimmed up my deck about three months ago with straight up 1 1/4 galvies. So far, not a single rust stain. I think that this new treated lumber is a little more kind to fasteners. I wouldn't use regular galvies for anything structural, but for trim its working pretty good so far.

      1. cic317 | Nov 13, 2008 03:48am | #4

        stay w/ Stainless nails, the new treated lumber w/ eat the regular finish nail. thats why all framing hangers are now double dipped.Spend the extra money, Easier to do it once.

        1. arcflash | Nov 14, 2008 03:41am | #9

          I know, I know. I'm not trying to give bad advice, those galvies were just the only thing that I had on hand. Its been over three months now, and they haven't rusted. I did use a generous amount of wood glue though, maybe that is what is making the difference.

          Trust me, if I had stainless on-hand, it would have been my first choice. There is only one supplier around here that sells them, but they want you to buy them by the skid. I just haven't gotten around to ordering any off of the internet yet.

          FastenerUSA.com has just about everything you need in stainless and hot-dipped, both hand-drive and airgun.

          Edited 11/13/2008 7:42 pm ET by arcflash

          1. User avater
            Haystax | Nov 20, 2008 07:26pm | #29

            I looked at the FastenerUSA website and was surprised by the relatively low price on their 304 stainless nails. This immediately made me suspect of the quality.Has anyone used the FastenerUSA brand compared with the Maze or Hitachi brands?I need to get some more hot-dipped and stainless nails for my house siding and although I have been very happy with Hitachi and Maze - the fastenerUSA are much, much cheaper. I doubt they have the capability to paint the heads of the stainless nails that will be for face nailing the T&G in spots and installing window trim.Any thoughts on how the price can be so much cheaper? Thanks.

  3. JeffinPA | Nov 13, 2008 04:17am | #5

    sic is right.

    The acq treated lumber is a nail eater. 

    When it first came out, I had a lot of conversations with several suppliers regarding the product. 

    I have never seen 3x dipped but I use stainless for these such conditions. 

    Big box stores in my area dont sell them but both my lumber suppliers have several different sizes in stock in both straight and angled for Paslode/Hitachi etc. 

  4. toolbear | Nov 13, 2008 06:35am | #6

    This is for fastening trim to treated lumber, its my understanding that only hot dipped should be used for this application

    @@@

    Look for stainless. According to the modification in the Simpson bulletin, galvanic corrosion will continue. When the zinc is gone, the steel is next to go. It's a battery.

    "Warning

    While galvanized steel provides some protection, testing has shown that it is still likely to corrode if in contact with treated wood. The service life of galvanized parts depends on many variables including the location, installation, exposure, and the thickness of the galvanized coating."

    <http://www.strongtie.com/productuse/corrosion_risks.html>

    The ToolBear

    "You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert

    1. LIVEONSAWDUST | Nov 14, 2008 03:18am | #7

      nobody locally seems to have stainless, anybody have an idea where to order online?

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Nov 14, 2008 03:25am | #8

        I think I got mine from Manasquan Fastners ( for Paslode Trim-pulse)...anything else I use Floyd Tools in Floyd, Va. Both should link with a dot com added.

        Break out the wallet, thems is high dollar.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

         

        They kill Prophets, for Profits.

        BRING BACK SPLINTY.

         

      2. User avater
        Haystax | Nov 14, 2008 05:33am | #10

        I have been very pleased with the Maze brand stainless, painted head nails I've used with my Hitachi framing gun - except for the price.$200 for 1500 nails is the price both online and at the only lumber yard that stocks them and it looks like that is about the price online through Maze's website after adding shipping.Too pricey but at least they should last...doing it over is the real cost but it's hard to keep telling yourself that at ~8 cents each time you pull the trigger. Hand drives are cheaper but if you're gonna pay thru the nose you might as well make it as easy on yourself as possible.

      3. toolbear | Nov 14, 2008 06:11am | #11

        Stainless - try McFeeley's - they have SS trim from 4d to 16d, coil nails, finish nails and brads, etc..<http://www.McFeelys.com>@@@If you worry about them coming after you with a lawyer - and they have up to ten years in CA - better use stainless.The ToolBear

        "You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert

        1. KFC | Nov 14, 2008 06:32am | #12

          hey, on a related note- i had a little q and a go around with an architect about whether anchor bolts need to be galvy, ss or what.  he had spec'd regular ungalvanized AB's with ACQ plates.  none of his other framers ever asked about it, so he kinda acted like I was nuts.

          any opinion?

          k

          1. toolbear | Nov 14, 2008 07:20am | #13

            hey, on a related note- i had a little q and a go around with an architect about whether anchor bolts need to be galvy, ss or what. he had spec'd regular ungalvanized AB's with ACQ plates. none of his other framers ever asked about it, so he kinda acted like I was nuts.any opinion?@@@He probably should read the Simpson bulletin on this and get up to speed. Some framers use borate-treated sill stock to avoid the galvanic corrosion issues. I think Tim Uhler does this. There are side benefits of resistance to insects. (But termites support my tool habit.)Our current Habbie project - the inspector wants us to go back over the sill nailing and toe nail with galvi. I have no experience with what happens to plain steel anchors bolts in ACQ - the walls being closed up, etc. Be interesting to see.However, I inspected one Habitat porch job in the NorthWet. They did it in Feb. 08. Exposed to a lot of rain. Good conditions for galloping galvanic corrosion.In July O8 there was full rust on the wood sides of the SST post bracket and a fur of rust showing on the edges. There was no zinc left on the bolts where they sat in the wood.We jacked the post up, slid shingle stock under the base for some sort of drainage, pried the sides of the bracket away and slid Vycor in for isolation membrane. I really don't want to think about the rest of the porch or the front porch or all the nails or the lag screws. I detail decks far differently. They had never heard of Vycor. They bought a roll.I have Vycor isolation membranes behind all the hangers and brackets. The bolts are run inside PEX tubing sleeves to migitate contact with the ACQ and the washers sit on Vycor washers at both ends. My goal is to reduce the amount of metal in the circuit to the point where we are back to the good ole CCA days. Had no issues for 70 years, so why the change? $$$$$ I suspect.Detailing the ledgers - think alum. or galvi flashing in contact with ACQ. Gonner. I see there is now a vinyl flashing for this.The ToolBear

            "You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert

          2. KFC | Nov 14, 2008 07:54am | #14

            I think it's the "out of sight, out of mind" thing.  No one'll ever know if those AB's are non-existent until the next shaker.  And hey, the project was at least two miles away from the Hayward fault...

            What, Me Worry?

            He had a different crew do the framing.  They were more of the get 'er done, ask no questions model.  Nice carpentry from what I saw later, just not concerning themselves (or bothering the archy) with extraneous questions.  I could probably learn from that- I'd get more work...

            I can't remember if the concrete sub set galvy rod for the Simpson Strongwalls.  Does Simpson require it?  I assume they do. 

            But sorry, back to finish nails-  With ACQ and trim I usually use H.D.G. hand drives, but then, I work T&M .  ;)  No, seriously, I don't usually do big enough ACQ/trim productions where it's that big a cost difference.  

            Where (on the building) are you guys putting trim over PT?

            Maybe I should be concerned about those HDG's too, from what you all are saying.  There sure is a lot of zinc goo on them tho.  Hmmm...

            k

             

          3. toolbear | Nov 14, 2008 08:10am | #15

            I think it's the "out of sight, out of mind" thing. No one'll ever know if those AB's are non-existent until the next shaker. And hey, the project was at least two miles away from the Hayward fault...@@@ At least in CA they get a bunch of bolts. JLC had an article on twister country - looked like a hold down every 1/4 mile.I can't remember if the concrete sub set galvy rod for the Simpson Strongwalls. Does Simpson require it? I assume they do. @@@ Good question. Their web site should have the data. I must look at the strongwalls we are currently doing. Looked like 7/8 all thread. Just glanced.Where (on the building) are you guys putting trim over PT?### About the only PT in these Habbie homes is the sill stock and the external decks, stairs, porches. Maybe I should be concerned about those HDG's too, from what you all are saying. There sure is a lot of zinc goo on them tho. Hmmm...@@@ It would seem to be a matter of time, moisture, etc. I would love to do a post on some of their work done a few years back. As I recall, it was SST or Grace that suggested you do pull fasteners for inspection at intervals. Sign a maintenance contract for that deck. I think - use stainless and sleep better.The ToolBear

            "You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert

          4. KFC | Nov 14, 2008 08:21am | #16

            Duh.  The OP was asking about deck trim.  Sorry- watching The Office while online...

            k 

          5. LIVEONSAWDUST | Nov 15, 2008 03:41am | #25

            where am I putting trim over PT ?

            mainly on the skirts of decks/porches using trex or trex like material and sometimes (and I'll probably catch some heat for this) on small sets of steps I glue the trex down with a heavy bead of construction adhesive and nail it in place with finish nails till the glue sets. I know that is probably not approved, but I have a number of these going back about 5 years and it has all held tight. probably wouldnt do it on a large deck though.

            Too test how strong the bond is, I glued 2 scraps together and let it set a few days, I was able to pull it apart at about a week. I then stuck them back together (no additional glue) and llet it set. about a month later I tried to pull them apart and the board broke,the glue held tight!. I think pullig them apart and putting them back together helped (maybe helped make good contact ??) This was with synthetic decking like trex.

          6. User avater
            basswood | Nov 14, 2008 04:29pm | #18

            Hijack/Tangent:Galvanic corrosion issues with ACQ have made me rethink much of what I do:I avoid ACQ if possible (opting for borate, cedar, white oak, etc.).If using ACQ, use stainless, or HDG and isolation with Grace, etc.Also, think of ways to eliminate the need for fasteners and hardware. Beams under deck joists (rather than beams integrated into the floor system) adds fault tolerance... imagine what would happen to the structure if the hardware fails.Notch posts and let-in beams and braces.This weekend, I am building a treated retaining wall with 6x6's with joinery rather than fasteners, where possible.

          7. toolbear | Nov 15, 2008 05:58am | #26

            Also, think of ways to eliminate the need for fasteners and hardware. Beams under deck joists (rather than beams integrated into the floor system) adds fault tolerance... imagine what would happen to the structure if the hardware fails.Notch posts and let-in beams and braces.This weekend, I am building a treated retaining wall with 6x6's with joinery rather than fasteners, where possible. @@@I have a similar approach - try to avoid the ledger and the issues that go with it. Rest deck on two beams. Loads in compression vs sheer. All the metal go away, still might be standing. A benefit is that rot does not have a path into the home. (Of course, we make money fixing that, so ignore, please.)Close to the house, need to make sure that the soil is well compacted.BTW - nice looking joints. Looks like a generous dose of Termin8 on the cuts. What was your technique for getting such a clean joint?FWIW - talk about old ways - ships were fastened with trunnels (tree nails/wood dowels) back when and that worked.
            The ToolBear

            "You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert

          8. User avater
            basswood | Nov 16, 2008 03:13am | #27

            I also like the free standing deck plan (no ledger).On the clean, tight joints, I use a notching jig for the circular saw. The jig keeps the saw square and plumb, etc.Here are a couple of pics:

          9. toolbear | Nov 16, 2008 11:07am | #28

            On the clean, tight joints, I use a notching jig for the circular saw. The jig keeps the saw square and plumb, etc.@@@Tnx for pix. What I see is a shooting board with rails - nice idea. So you just slide it along, kerfing as you go. Very clean bottom on the cut. I usually move the saw back and forth like a planer for cleanout.
            I assume you do same, but on the board which keeps it square. I will file this procedure away.The ToolBear

            "You can't save the Earth unless you are willing to make other people sacrifice." Dogbert

      4. jimmiem | Nov 14, 2008 08:04pm | #19

        Google Swan Secure. They make stainless.  They should be able to give you a local distributor.

  5. User avater
    Matt | Nov 14, 2008 03:45pm | #17

    I get SS 15 ga angle for about $90 a box at a local contractor supply.  Kinda pricey, but I find that if I'm careful about only using them in applications where they are really necessary a box lasts me for a very long time.

    This was the first thing a Google brought up.  Cheaper than what I've been paying...  There has got to be scores of online resources...

    BTW - to answer your initial question more directly, to my knowledge *no* finish gun nails come in hot dipped galvanized.  I'm guessing they couldn't colliate them.



    Edited 11/14/2008 7:48 am ET by Matt

  6. jimmiem | Nov 14, 2008 08:08pm | #20

    I was going to use 15 ga galvanized to fasten exterior trim.  Nail manufacturer said that the nails are galvanized but they don't regalvanize the points or heads after they are cut.  

  7. Piffin | Nov 14, 2008 08:11pm | #21

    IMO, 15ga nails do not belong on exterior work. I have been the last two weeks repairing on one that was very poorly detailed in general, trapping lots of water and causing rot.

    But amoung the other items of pure old lousy woirkmanship, was the use of 15ga nails for trim. They were rusting right off ( eight or ten year old job) and even where not rusted, they had no strength to hold the wood in place, so there was excessive wood movement, openning gaps to direct even more water in when driven on the wind.

    The only way I would consider this use is to use SS nails, three times as many, at opposing angles, and use glue as well

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. TomE | Nov 15, 2008 01:16am | #22

      I agree, if one must use 15 ga for fastening it's best to use an angular "stitching" pattern to get these fastners to hold and preferably with a full round head SS nail.

      We normally use small gauge to tack the trim in place and nail (or screw) with heavier stuff to actually fasten.

      For the uninitiated, it's good to remember that the commonly available galvanized finish nails (pneumatic) are nothing more than galvanized wire formed (clipped and pressed) to the shape of a "nail" with little to no effort to protect the machined ends.  Over time, in weathering conditions, you'll just end up with a galvanized "tube" filled with rust holding together whatever was assembled with them.

       

  8. reinvent | Nov 15, 2008 01:55am | #23

    http://www.manasquanfasteners.com/

    http://www.floydtool.com/stainless_nail.htm#sp15a

    1. User avater
      Sphere | Nov 15, 2008 03:05am | #24

      Thanks for making them live links, but he hasn't read my post yet...LOL

      http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=112803.1#a8Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

      Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

       

      They kill Prophets, for Profits.

       

       

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Podcast Episode 686: Brick Steps, Ground-Source Heat Pumps, and Greenhouses in Nova Scotia

Listeners write in about fireplaces affecting family harmony and bionic suits, before asking questions about brick steps, ground-source heat pumps, and building a dome greenhouse in Maritime Canada.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 686: Brick Steps, Ground-Source Heat Pumps, and Greenhouses in Nova Scotia
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Efficient HVAC for a New Build
  • Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans
  • FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data