Replies

1. 
   NJkwan | Jan 31, 1999 01:15pm | #1

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   This is what I did. I had started with the stud wall without drywall. Frame the nook for the unit so that you can slide it in without binding but leaving minimum free play. I framed it with metal studs and I put the top and bottom track without the studs. When unit was in place, I filled it in with studs. To finish the top, attach piece of wood of even thickness as the lip on the unit and then install cement board ending about 1/4 inch from the top edge of the unit, that is, going over the lips. This way you have more wall for gluing if you are finishing the lip with tile. If you already have drywall, attach another shim and board over the existing wall. There are how to books with pictures in the libraries. Hope this helps.

2. 
   Guest_ | Feb 01, 1999 10:12am | #2

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   Did you bed the unit at the floor or leave it so it flexes and finally fatigues?

3. 
   rob_cooper | Feb 02, 1999 12:23am | #3

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   You can use field or bullnose tiles to trim a fiberglass unit. Attach with surround adhesive by buttering. Make sure to mask area next to row of tiles. You can grout and seal normally after that. It looks much better than the edges of the unit up against the painted drywall.

4. 
   PhillyD | Feb 02, 1999 12:23am | #4

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   Just got a one piece tub/shower unit. I'm trying to figure out how to cover the lip edges where it attaches to the walls and all three sides at the top. There is no cap available for this unit.

   The walls are primed and painted drywall (moisture resistant green-colored type). BTW, should teh drywall go OVER or UNDER the tub lip edges?

   TIA

   Phil