I’m sorry to ask such a very very basic question, but my head is spinning with trying to figure this out. Once I have the order of the steps, then I think I’ll be able to take one step at a time instead of being overwhelmed by the whole project.
I want to finish my basement. What order do I have to do things?
1. replace hopper windows (the exterior is faux stone and the interior has plaster – no existing window framing)
2. drylock walls
3. glue rigid insulation to walls
4. frame walls (interior and against exterior walls)
5. level floor (how necessary is this?)
6. drycore floor
7. subfloor (I saw the drycore at HD today – do I need another subfloor?)
8. full insulation & drywall.
The order I’m most unsure of is the flooring/framing. We get a little leak in our basement. Although it’s not anywhere near where I’m going to finish, when it rains really really badly, the leak can run a little distance. Plus moisture does rise a tad all over the basement (1939 house). So I want to protect as much as possible against moisture. So – do I frame on top of the drycore or frame directly onto the concrete floor? Pressure treated wood, of course.
Thanks – I know this project is going to take a very long time, but I figure as long as I know what order to do things in, then I can plug away at it.
Mary
Replies
1. Take care of the water leak issue first. It could be just an indicator of a bigger water intrusion issue that you will cover when you put the walls up. If it is as you say it's probably just a matter of exterior grading or adding a downspout to keep rain water away from the foundation. That being said if you're going to invest time and money into finishing the basement you should at least seriously consider putting in drain tile and a sump pit/pump. If I were doing your basement I would push you very hard to do it if not insist on it. Even if you think you have a dry basement that 100 year rain can cause you much grief especially if your insurance doesn't cover the water damage.
2. Replace the windows. Check your local codes for egress requirements.
3. I wouldn't bother with the Drylock. I don't believe in that kind of stuff. I personally don't think it is necessary if the foundation and walls are properly drained and if its not I don't think that those kind of paint on membranes do much good against the kinds of hydrostatic pressure that will be in your walls anyways. Thats just my opinion though. If you really want to do it, it probably won't hurt, just don't rely on it to "waterproof" your walls.
4. Rigid insulation. 2" Foamular or equivilent will get you R-10. It should be sufficient for a basement wall.
5. Frame the walls, plates on the concrete floor, not the drycore. Glue the plates w/ construction adhesive & secure w/ tapcons or powder actuated nails.
6. Level the floor. How bad is it? If it is out of tolerances for whatever flooring you will be putting in, yes do that.
7. Subfloor. Drycore is a subfloor system, you don't need to put another subfloor on top of it. If you want to you can put your own subfloor system in place of the drycore if you think it is necessary/to your advantage. You may not need a subfloor depending on your circumstances. Carpet, tile, engineered hardwood can go directly on top of concrete. Subfloors are nice though for comfort, and moisture control.
8. Mechanicals. HVAC, plumbing, electrical.
9. Drywall. "Full insulation" probably isn't necessary. If you mean you want to add FG (fiberglass), I would discourage this. I am not a believer of FG in basements when you can use rigid foam instead. Whatever you do don't put FG in the stud cavities and then poly over it for a moisture barrier which may be suggested or even required by code. The rigid foam will serve as the moisture barrier. If you really think you need more R's then use foam in the stud cavities (either spray which is expensive or rigid sealed in place with expanding foam).
10. Paint.
11. Flooring.
12. Trim. (swap this w/ 11 if you are putting carpet in vs tile or wood flooring)
13. Finish plumbing/electrical.
My experience has been that if the existing basement doesn't have an existing escape window or door to the exterior you're not required to put one in. That being said, the local municipality may have certain specific requirements regarding what you are finishing the basement for. Some municipalities specifically say that bedrooms in basements are not allowed. Some may say that if you finish out an existing basement and have a bedroom in the basement, then you do have to comply with required light & ventilation for the new bedroom as well as a new emergency egress directly from the basement bedroom. If you're finishing the basement out just for a recreation room you will have to comply with light & ventilation. Check with the local municipality on this.
Ampres, why do you frame the walls directly on the floor rather than on top of the drycor? Wouldn't you rather get the framing off the floor where it could wick up moisture?
The walls need to be secured to the floor. Drycore is a floating floor system and it would seem to me that if the subfloor moved the walls would as well. I checked the drycore website and they do indeed say you can frame interior walls on top of the drycore and anchor them minimally (2 anchors in 8 feet) to the concrete using nails or tapcons. I guess I am still skeptical since that would seem to defeat the floating characteristics of the floor and still doesn't seem very well anchored.
As far as wicking moisture up into the floor, the bottom plate should be PT. Although moisture in a basement is always a primary concern, especially in the humid summer months, there shouldn't be standing water on the floor to get sucked up into the wall cavity. If this does happen the construction methods used should allow for the walls to dry, hence no poly barrier, at least not on the warm side of the wall and no FG.
arachne........You have got some of the best outlines from the previous posts that you can get anywhere the guys are really sharp.
I would like to add just a little info........go someplace and buy a lot of tools you are probably not going to need, get some beer and stuff, think some more about that truck/van you've been looking at,maybe even a Bobcat...........the project is suposed to be fun.........have the best holidays you ever had and a word of caution , the beer andstuff may not help the "spinning" head. :)
I agree with most suggestions. You do want drain tile and I would put the corrugated plastic L's to act as an expansion joint between the slab and the wall. Before you do anything else, I would put a vapor barrier (ideally 6 mil because they can rip and tear easily against the foundation.
Tuck the bottom of the poly into the plastic between the slab wall. All water will be diverted to underneath the slab and into a sump basin.
Good luck.