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Finishing a concrete block fence-Parge versus ???

keith_n | Posted in Construction Techniques on December 17, 2009 12:03pm

I have recently had a nice concrete block fence built at my house. Except for the actual laying of block, I did all of the work (footings, digging, etc) and want to try to handle the finishing of the fence. After buying block, concrete, paying the masons, etc, I really can’t spring for a full stucco job. I noticed at my office building that the concrete block piers are “parged” with mortar and it is a very nice finish of about 1/2 to 5/8 ” , is smooth and has held up without cracking for over 20 years that I am aware of. I can’t locate anything on the internet on how to do this. My questions are: 1) is there any good reason not to finish this 6 foot plus fence like this? 2) how difficult might it be? and 3) how to do it? It seems that this would be a project that I could take my time on and do as I had weekend time to work on it. If it would help AND if I can figure out how to do it, I could upload a photo or two of the fence. Thoughts? Thanks

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  1. keith_n | Dec 17, 2009 12:41am | #1

    OK. Attached is a photo of the back fence. This gives an idea of what I am trying to finish. After the fence traves down the slope, there is a gap for a gate and then I will have knee wall/post with metal fence between posts. How do I parge this? Do I need some sort of "primer?" Thoughts?

  2. User avater
    bobl | Dec 17, 2009 08:04am | #2

    while I'm not a mason. from
    while I'm not a mason. from what I've read if you don't parge it all at once you will have cold joints.

  3. User avater
    popawheelie | Dec 17, 2009 11:23am | #3

    As with a lot of things this can be done in basically two different ways.

    One is to parge it like you are thinking of doing. This is how a lot of them are done.

    But... The best method is to put a lath on the wall first.

    What this method does is bridge over the mortar lines in the wall. There is stucco lath that has paper and metal in sheets that you can nail onto your wall.

    Either way, you would put thicker coats on first and then put on a thin finish coat.

    When you look at the thicker coats you will be able to see where you started and stopped each day. But that's ok.

    The thin top/finish coat you should put on in one day so there are no places where you see a line. You can put in stucco control lines/grounds in places if you think you can't get the whole wall done in one day. Maybe after you do the base coat your arm will be strong enough to do the finish coat in one day. Maybe you could use a helper on that day to mix and supply you with the top coat.

    If you choose to not use lath it might be fine. A lot of them are done this way. What can happen is that the mortar lines can show through under certain conditions. Like if the wall gets wet and then dries a bit. Over the mortar lines at will stay wet longer. Some people/customers would object to that. But the lines might only show under certain conditions. Hope this helps.

    You can do this. I would just make sure your arm is ready and you had a helper on the top coat day.

    One thing I've done is to put a piece of plywood or osb under where I'm stuccoing so I can scoop up the stuff I drop. ;^)

    1. keith_n | Dec 19, 2009 10:04am | #4

      Thanks. How do I get even thickness coats? I watched a stucco house go up in the neighborhood and it looks like they nailed strips vertically that were used to gauge thickness of coat. Is that the best method? Thanks again

      1. User avater
        popawheelie | Dec 19, 2009 11:42am | #5

        I would use strips for guaging the thickness. I've watched plasters use a stick that they moved ahead of thier work.

        Is that a rod or a darby?

        You still might get some texture in your work. If you figure you will have some texture from the onset then maybe you can decide what texture you want first.

  4. danusan10 | Dec 19, 2009 05:27pm | #6

    pretty much what last poster told you, I would suggest you get a hawk to help when applying mortar fairly cheap and worth the money. Ask a local drywall supply house if you wonder what it is.

    1. keith_n | Dec 23, 2009 02:59pm | #7

      Thanks for all of the assistance and advice. Is anyone aware of any good web references on this topic? I am probably over-thinking this project and want to get as much information as possible before mixing the first wheelbarrow of mortar. I should probably just start mixing and troweling! Thanks

      1. User avater
        MarkH | Dec 27, 2009 10:46am | #8

        http://www.taylorrental.com/tip_detail.asp?id=56&sec_id=Homeowner.

        http://www.stuccoguru.com/resources/article.cfm?articleID=B-06150&resourceID=2

        Dry stack cement coating?

        http://www.thenaturalhome.com/drystackblock.htm

      2. Snort | Dec 27, 2009 10:58am | #9

        Surewall can be applied with a brush, and Quick Crete makes something, too.

        1. brownbagg | Dec 27, 2009 05:21pm | #10

          it easy, make it look pretty

      3. crpntrstv | Dec 28, 2009 06:40pm | #11

        Check out the Portland Cement Assn site. Might be pca.org?

  5. reginag | May 06, 2010 01:06pm | #12

    As long as its made sturdy and strong, you wont have any issues about it.

    Arizona Gated Community

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