Finishing beaded wainscoting-baseboard joint
georgep
| Posted in General Discussion on
I am installing baseboard on a wall that has beadboard wainscoting installed. I am going to install a base cap to cover the gap between the beadboard and wall but that still leaves the gaps from the beadboard grooves.
I know when I caulk this with enough caulk to fill the grooves I’m going to end up with a crappy looking line with little spikes of caulking coming up the grooves.
Any tips on how to prevent that and get a nice even line?
Thanks
Replies
The only thing I can think of would be to mark a line where your baseboard is, cut out the beadboard so your base fits snugly under it. Not terribly difficult, all things considered, but doing it this way would yield the best looking results (I can think of) where your calking would make it look good.
Doing that when the beadboard is already installed ?
Maybe hoping for a perfectly level and flat installed base with the paneling on top…
PITA caulking job cleaned up good might last and look good for a while with some flexible caulk meant for paint.
Or, remember, only your mother in law will comment.
That’ll give her one less more meaningful subject to bitch about.
As I was installing the base I was thinking I should have used 1-1/2” base and put the beadboard on top. Oh well.
I have some leftover board and base. I’m going to mock up a sample, put painters tape on the board at the joint, making sure I press the tape in the grooves with a putty knife. Yeah, major PITA but if it works it’ll look like better than not doing it. If it doesn’t work then I have more time to finish other stuff.
The last thing I would ever worry about is pleasing my mother-in-law, even if she was still around being the different type of PITA she was!
Hallway? Doubt you’ll see anything.
Living room, den? Maybe catch a view, but from some distance.
Bedroom? Ha ha ha, fat chance.
Amen.
It’s really not too hard to chalk, just have plenty of water and rags to smooth it out. Sometimes I use an old 1.5” sash brush for this. I’ll wipe the caulk with a rag and get it just about smoothed, then dip the brush in water and smooth the caulk in a motion just like you would use if painting. You may have to touch up some areas again with the rag, but you should be able to get the caulk pretty clean at this point.
I press the tape in the grooves with a putty knife. Yeah, major PITA but if it works it’ll look like better than not doing it.
Chalking isn't too difficult once you get the hang of it. Just make sure you have plenty of water and rags on hand for smoothing. I often use an old 1.5” sash brush for this job. After applying the caulk, I initially smooth it out with a rag. Then, I dip the brush in water and use it in a painting-like motion to refine the caulk. You might need to go back and touch up some spots with the rag, but this method should help you achieve a clean, professional finish.