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Finishing cedar siding

daaaaaaaavid | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 30, 2005 06:38am

I have a house and barn both sided with smooth cedar lap siding that needs refinishing every two to three years.  The siding is prestained with Cabots semitransparent stain and top coated with several coats of Sikkens Cetol SRD. I like the looks of the Sikkens but it dulls in one  or two years and seems to disappear after that. What can I use that will have the same looks with a longer life.

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  1. rez | May 05, 2005 08:25pm | #1

    Greetings Dave,

    As a first time poster Welcome to Breaktime.

    This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.

    Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.

    Cheers

    sobriety is the root cause of dementia.

  2. rez | May 08, 2005 07:37pm | #2

    bump

    sobriety is the root cause of dementia.

    1. DustinThomps | May 08, 2005 07:46pm | #3

      Have you seen the cabot acrylic solid body stains?  I think it is called "The Finish."  It holds up well on cedar shakes.  A house that I sided about 4 years ago with cedar shakes and the cabot stain still looks great!  If you find anything better, let us know.

      Dustin from Maine

      1. rez | May 08, 2005 07:48pm | #4

        Have you seen the cabot acrylic solid body stains?  I think it is called "The Finish."  It holds up well on cedar shakes.  A house that I sided about 4 years ago with cedar shakes and the cabot stain still looks great!  If you find anything better, let us know.

        Dustin from Maine

         

        sobriety is the root cause of dementia.

  3. Piffin | May 08, 2005 07:52pm | #5

    Cabots is good, Sikkens has a good rep too, but I haven't used it because of tedious application procedures spelled out by them.
    There could be two problems possible.

    clear and semi-trans stains and paints do not have much body or pigment to protect the wopod, essentially, you are only replacing the oils that the sun is baking away. An exterior paint or stain is a combo of vehicleor carrier, and banding agent and pigment. In your case, you have almost no pigment and the vehicle is a thinner that evaporates while the oils penetrate and bond to the wood fibres. you have no sacrificial pigmnent to protect the surface so the oil is left alone to do all the work. clear will never last as long as a pigmented paint.

    The other problwem could originate in you application procedure and quality of your prep work. Not trying to indict you, but pointing out that the prep wpork of sanding and cleaning is the hardest part of any paint job and often gets neglected. Since Sikkens is very specific, re warrantee and applications, it could be too that there is an incompatability between the cabots base and the sikkens overcoat.

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

  4. User avater
    hammer1 | May 08, 2005 08:26pm | #6

    In my area, Sikkens and Penofin have shown that they need frequent maintenance at high material and labor cost. I would get all that Sikkens off and go with Cabots Problem Solver or their oil base semi-transparent. I regret recommending Sikkens and Penofin to some past customers. Now that I've had some longer term experience with them, they have proved to be pretty poor choices. My paint sales people agree, although they carry the products.

    Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

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