Replies

1. 
   Cole_Dean | Jan 31, 2002 03:33am | #1

   *
   Try an HVLP gun. I just sprayed 13 jambs, base and casing with one. Minimal overspray so you can spray the jambs in place. Spray the base and casing on sawhorses. The gun heats the material so it is dry quicker and you can second coat it. I only sprayed poly but stain is fine also.

   Cole

1. 
   Peter_Shlagor | Jan 31, 2002 03:49am | #2

   *What type of doors? Are they 6 panel? You're right that it can take time. But that time will make you appreciate the finish more. If you're going to do them by hand, attach the doors to 10 ft 2x4's or 6's using 6 inch wood screws thru predrilled holes into the door wood behind the hinges (which of course are taken off). Then hang this setup from large pallets set on end. This will save a lot of space and keep dust and/or creatures from settling into your finish. You'll spend most of you time doing the job sitting down and scooting around. Therefore an old piece of carpet serves as a great dropcloth. I've seen some boys apply stain by hand and then spray with clear coat lacquer. Heckava lot faster.

1. 
   Phil_Hays | Jan 31, 2002 08:32pm | #3

   *Cole, thanks for the advice. I have long considered an HVLP system. It would also help with the hundreds of feet of base molding and the door and window casing still yet to do. Could you recommend a brand name?

1. 
   Phil_Hays | Jan 31, 2002 08:46pm | #4

   *Peter, they are six panel and sanding took a good bit of time. I have mounted six doors to a 16'long 2x4 framework by drilling a hole on the top and bottom centers and pinning them through the frame. That way they pivot on their centers, are balanced, and are spaced to provide access to work. Hanging them like you said is another good idea and would be easy with a helper to move. Thanks for the advice.

1. 
   Peter_Shlagor | Feb 01, 2002 04:41am | #5

   *OOO... I like your method of vertical pivoting. Someday I may try that.I found that using utility knife blades as scrapers worked much faster than sanding my doors. Those first coupla of coats of finish have all sorts of blemishs that come off much faster with a scraper than steel wool. The blade allowed me to get into those crevices and such quite easily.

2. 
   Cole_Dean | Feb 01, 2002 05:56pm | #6

   *Phil,I purchased a reconditioned unit at Home Depot. Campbell Hausfield. I don't spray trim everyday, only when I am finishing a basement etc. It is a light duty homeowner grade sprayer, but worked great for my cause. I paid $ 125.00 for it and new it was around $ 300.00. If I were to get serious about it I think that Fuji and some others make professional grade sprayers that will last quite a bit longer. One tip. When spraying, try to spray the entire length of base or casing without stopping, or you might end up with a "lap" mark. Or it could be that it was my maiden voyage with the sprayer. In any case after I got used to it, it was a piece of cake. Sure beat wiping it on. Turned a two or more day job into a couple of hours.Cole

3. 
   RonTeti | Feb 02, 2002 02:08am | #7

   *Cole, I have the same sprayer (I think)if its the serious duty one. Except mine is older. Make sure you get all the tips. When you spray finish make sure you use the thin material tip and cap. The reason I mention this is because when I bought a replacement gun I didnt get the other needles and caps. I got only the "Multiple Use "tip and needle. When I used it to finish some display cabs. it didnt come out to well . I couldnt use the orginal ones because they changed the OD of the needle and it wouldnt work in the new gun. So Just a heads up. by the way HD dont carry the replacement parts you have to order them through CH but thats another story.