Replies

1. 
   hammer1 | Mar 02, 2009 10:02pm | #1

   Nothing you have listed has the durability for kitchen cabinets, sorry to say. They all will be adversely effected by water, cleaners and wear and tear. What do you want, a stained, clear coat finish or a painted finish? Light or dark? Do you want a hand applied finish, no spray equipment?

   Oil based enamels are one of the more forgiving paints. They level out well and you can go back to tip off or collect a run. Acrylics are another choice but they require excellent brush work. There is no going back since they skin over very fast.

   Oil based clear coats are another good choice. Some can be wiped on, helping to eliminate brush marks, runs and drips. You could use one of the many wiping polyurethanes. There are also paste varnishes but you will likely have to order them on line. It takes a few more applications to build a good protective surface with wipe ons but they are easy if you take your time.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   BigMish | Mar 02, 2009 11:43pm | #3

   I’m planning to do one set natural wood, one set painted.

   <!----><!----> <!---->

   I’d like the wood somewhat dark and rich. I’m thinking cherry or mahogany (but maybe stained birch).

   <!----> <!---->

   The painted will be a light color and need to be cleaned easily as they are by the sink and stove.

   <!----> <!---->

   I don’ have access to spray equipment.

   <!----> <!---->

   I’d like something that is reasonably easy to apply and holds up well but doesn’t have a Home Depot/fresh-off-the-factory-floor look

   <!----> <!---->

   Thanks again!

   Edited 3/2/2009 5:02 pm ET by BigMish

2. 
   Dave45 | Mar 02, 2009 10:26pm | #2

   You first need to decide on what you want the finished cabinets to look like. You've described pretty much the entire spectrum from painted to furniture level finishing (the tung oil)

   Of your choices, I would rank the tung oil the least desirable. It's a great finish for furniture, but very time consuming to do. I do a lot of cabinets and doubt if I would even do a tung oil finish - no matter how much the customer was willing to pay. - lol

   I use either polyurethane or lacquer for 99% of my finishes based on its durability. I also spray as much as I can because it's far easier to do and you get a better job if you do it right.

   If you really want some information overload, take this question over to the Fine Woodworking forum. You'll get advice from cabinetmakers and woodworkers all around the world and probably learn far more than you ever wanted to know. - lol

3. 
   Danno | Mar 03, 2009 12:01am | #4

   I have heard that milk paint is durable--I know that very few strippers will touch it--it can be chipped though, so some woodworkers use that to an advantage by putting on three layers in different colors and then distressing it to bring out the undercoats--as if wear and tear on an old cabinet were exposing old layers of paint. Milk paint is interesting to use--it is sort of translucent--grain shows through--but it dries kind of chalky. I have done the three coat trick--green over blue over red (each color will take on the previous tone a bit, so you can end up with some pretty dark colors for the final color (which I like)).  I have made a couple bookcases that I painted with milk paint and really liked the results. I also wipe on boiled linseed oil as a final coat, or any other oil you like, as it protects it a bit, sort of melts the chalkiness and darkens and brings out the color while adding a little sheen.

   I also like shellac--but even I would be inclined to question using it in a kitchen. But it is easliy repaired if chipped or marked (wet glasses left on it will leave white rings which can be romoved pretty easily, and aclcoholic drinks will dissolve the finish if you spill them on it). I like the color of garnetlac--rich redish orange--like iodine. Using shellac with stains and dyes can really produce some nice effects. I like to experiment, so I have "stained" (and I mean really stained) wood with Gentian Violet (a medicine that will dye anything purple) and with iodine, and with tea (not very successful, that) and with mustard or turmeric (sort of disappointing results).

   As always, I recommend playing and testing on the wood you will use but before you make something irreplaceable out of it (or use offcuts for experiments).

1. 
   Shoemaker1 | Mar 03, 2009 03:12am | #5

   Gentian Violet ???
   as a former RN working in the OR I became good friends with an anetheitist . He told me when he was a "best man for a wedding"
   The night before they went out to party, groom got a little juiced. So anything that did not hang out the Tux was painted with Gentian Violet . Needless to say the bride was major unhappy.Tung oil for kitchen I did it needs a coat a year inspitie of 5 first coats. anything varnished is good. The new fast dry poly's are good. Never used milk paint but would like to try.Have painted with latex with a foam roller VERY carefully and clear coated with Varthane spray can finish, very nice. Need some dry time though.
   The BLO over milk paint sounds good both, fairly green sic and low VOC.I have put BLO over flat latex and it gave it a nice finish.Make up a few boards and see which on stands the test of time. and send pic's