I am about to install a 1×4 T&G fir ceiling. Are there any opinions out there regarding finihes. Can it be left natural, or should it be finished. It will be applied to the underside of a flat roof.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
The code requires installing an approved material to slow the spread of fire between floors and adjacent vertical and horizontal cavities — here are the allowed materials and required locations.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
Finishing it will bring out the wood tones and grain, as well as act as something of a sealer (especially if you seal all 6 sides). I would prefinish it or spray it in place with Waterlox, a tung oil based finish. I did my fir trim with it and it looks great.
Mike Fitz
Hey Mike, I plan on using Tung Oil on my heart pine floor, so that will be convenient for the ceiling. Did you do your trim in tung oil as well? I am considering the same.
I used two coats of Waterlox original sealer followed by two coats of Waterlox Satin on my wide plank white pine floors. On my fir windows and trim I did one coat of each. All in all, the results are pretty decent, and I would use the same combination again. I'll post some pics when the doors are in and the trim is done.
I couldn't find the Waterlox at any of the local places their website suggested, so I bought it from Highland Hardware over the internet. The shipping was more reasonable than I expected, and the prices were competitive. That said, Waterlox is not a cheap product but the coverage is good and it gives that softened, antique look we wanted.
Mike
When you did your floors with Waterlox, did you coat all 6 sides or just the top surface. Also, what was the sheen quality of the original sealer/finish. Is it somewhere between satin and gloss?
I coated the back side and end cuts with shellac sealer, and used the Waterlox to seal the top. I didn't use the shellac on the tongues or grooves b/c I was worried that any shellac which ran onto the top side would cause the wood to accept the Waterlox differently. I don't really know for sure if that concern was warranted, but that was my reason. My subfloor had also been painted, and the underside had been sprayed with foam insulation since it was mostly a garage which is kept fairly cold. I think all those combined should mute any excessive swelling and shrinking cycles, although I'm sure it will still move some.
The Original Sealer is slightly higher gloss than the satin Sealer. However, the first two coats absorb into the wood, so there wasn't much gloss anyway. The top coats of Waterlox were the Satin Sealer, which gives a nice rustic look. If you want more gloss, they probably have a product for that look too. Remember that with a softwood floor, higher gloss will show scratches and dents more readily. The satin should allow it to look 'old' more gracefully, I hope.
Mike
So you painted the subfloor as well, to reduce moisture migration I imagine. Did you use feltpaper or rosin. I realize I am departing from the fir ceiling topic, but my floor arrives next week (1x8 heart pine).
I actually painted the floor b/c it was our finished floor for a year or so, and I thought it would make it easier to control dust, etc. The moisture migration was an added bonus, although the foam on the under side probably does more than the paint.
I still used red rosin paper under the floor, for squeaks, I guess. Mostly b/c Piffin said so! I try to follow the advice of pros since I am clearly not one.
Mike
I know there seems to be some opposing opinions on rosin vs. felt paper. I have used mainly rosin paper in the past, but some suggest that felt will act as a vapour barrier. My concern is to do anything I can to reduce cupping on the wider boards.
If you have this over a damp space like a crawl, the tarppaer will slow or prevent moisture from swelling the back sides of the floor ing and leading to cupping. Of course, there are other things you will need to be doing down there too. But if you are using radiant in floor heat, it can lead to off-gassing fumes of volatile oils in the tarpaper that somefind nauseating. After all my years roofing, I don't notice.one way of the other, you need the paper to prevent wood/wood sqeaks, unlesss you glue it down, then the glue does the same thing.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
i'm curious about spraying waterlox, since it is more of a rubbing oil. Do you spray to apply and then rubb it down? or just leave it to luck to even itself out?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I'm curious about spraying waterlox, since it is more of a rubbing oil. Do you spray to apply and then rubb it down? or just leave it to luck to even itself out?
I brushed it on my trim and used a lambswool applicator for the floors. I only mentioned spraying in case he wanted to coat the ceiling after it was up. To be honest, I have no idea what would be involved in spraying it, although I thought I saw that as an option on the can's instructions. I probably should have made that clear in my post.
Mike
waterlox, since it is more of a rubbing oil
Different regions might see Waterlox differently. At least different people do. To me it was always to be treated as a film varinish-like product. It had never occured to me that it might be anything else.
It was from you a few months ago that I first heard of treating it like a rubbing oil. I'm intending on trying that approach this Summer on a floor here. I'll probably be back then to ask you some questions if I can't find that old thread.
I have heard that a lot of the interior wood trim in Japanese houses is l;eft unfinished. Since the ceiling won't be touchable once it's installed, that might be an option.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
I have heard that a lot of the interior wood trim in Japanese houses is l;eft unfinished.
A personal observation here: I visited Japan 2 years ago and was surprised at the lack of tradition in structures there. I was in Tokyo. I think anything over 40 years of age is considered a tear-down. Natural wood and plastics would be treated interchangeably, except that the synthetics are considered superior.
I prefer unfinished, assuming the wood is in good shape (planed or rough sawn depending on the look you want). Just touch up smudges and nicks with sand paper. If the weather has got at it, oxalic acid can be helpful.
Scott.
If you ever wanted to clean it, a finish would be better. Ceilings get caked up with gunk over time, particularly if near a kitchen, or if there are smokers, or you use wood to heat.
I would definitely prefinish it toavoid or reduce movement from humidity which will be higher there than at your living level. Same for preventing aging and smoke staining.
I presume you mean interior. For exterior, I would advixse painting with robins egg blue or pale sky blue. This looks like open shy and reduces the number of nesting birds and spiders upthere so it stays cleaner.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!