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Fire Block for Suspended Ceiling

DonCanDo | Posted in Construction Techniques on January 7, 2005 05:29am

One of my customers is having their basement re-finished.  I’ll be doing paint and trim, but I’m not doing the suspended ceiling.  Maybe that’s a good thing because she showed me a picture (see attached) of what the building inspector expected and I don’t get it.

It looks to me like they’re asking for drywall (as a fire stop) ABOVE the suspended ceiling.  I don’t think that’s likely, so can someone help decode this for me?

-Don

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  1. pm22 | Jan 07, 2005 05:55am | #1

    I don't mean to sidetrack your thread, but I think you will have to look up CABO 502.11 or 302.11. That is the rub. The stupid architect/engineer/designer used the idiotic "City" font of AutoCad and the numeral 5 or 3 is unreadable. Send in a RFI [Request For Information] to the fool.

    I don't know if CABO is on-line. Many of these Code operations are in the pre-Internet dark ages.

    My guess is they want you to subdivide the space between the floor above and the suspended ceiling into square compartments about 33' by 33' in order to prevent or hinder the rapid spread of fire. "GYP. ROC." probably means gypsum board or sheetrock or drywall but whomever was too lazy to spell it out, if he could.

    ~Peter

    1. Piffin | Jan 08, 2005 02:29am | #7

      Feeling a little off your oats a bit eh?Maybe your monitor needs tuning or something. Mine shows the detail lettering just fione. It says 302.11
      I can see how the font could be confusing if youhad a low quality fax or printer smuidging things or low pixelization running things together.GYP ROC or gyp bd.is a standard abreviation. If I use any abreviation, does that mean I get the title, 'lazy'?But listen, the main reason I replied is to clear up something about this - "I don't know if CABO is on-line. Many of these Code operations are in the pre-Internet dark ages."Many entities have in the past made attempts to place their codes on line, and have been unsuccessful because each building code is the result of thousands of hours of work by the group or organization that wrtote it as a model. It is copyrited and selling published versions is where the money comes from to do the research and wrangle out the model code for publishing. They have been succesful in court in defending that copyrite and preventing public disemination online.

      Welcome to the
      Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
      where ...
      Excellence is its own reward!

      Edited 1/7/2005 6:30 pm ET by piffin

      1. pm22 | Jan 08, 2005 04:17am | #8

        There is some sort of legal appeal thing centered around Texas, I believe, in which Codes adopted into law must be freely available to the public, i.e. the Internet. I am mainly familiar with the NEC. For practical purposes, most all of their copies are sold to electricians, electrical inspectors and instructors. Using the internet would be a poor substitute for simply buying one's own copy in this case. Printing it out would be too expensive in ink and paper.

        But for a specific use, having all the codes on line would be a good thing. For example, in this case, the guy could Google "CABO 302.11" and get his answer toot sweet. Since the codes change and get revised and corected constantly, having them online and readily available is the way to go. After all, the purpose of the codes is to insure safety and it would be a good idea to have this information readily available to everyone.

        On the subject of typestyles or fonts. On plans for construction, clarity is essential. If the architect uses the imitation handprint font "City" and the carpenter misreads "15" for "13" and erects a thirteen foot wall, there is a problem.

        I took three years of drafting in high school and it was all pencil and T-squares and the lettering was all by hand. This was a chore to be speedy and neat and legible. Now we have CAD and the ability to type all we want in a clear typeface. So the architects use "City" font and even run their drawing through a "Squiggle" program to imitate the inferior, handdrawn look of old. If they want to do that for presentation drawing for their clients for old times sake, let 'em. But when it comes time for the actual building process, they caneasily use the magic of the computer to clean things up and make things legible for those of us in the field.

        ~Peter

  2. rasconc | Jan 07, 2005 06:03am | #2

    As I read it it is the same requirement that has been around for quite a while.  It is not really because of your susp. ceil. but a general rqmt to break up the area to 1000 sqft or less.  Not a big deal but a big safety plus.  It is above but perpendicular to the ceiling.



    Edited 1/6/2005 10:05 pm ET by RASCONC

  3. blue_eyed_devil | Jan 07, 2005 06:03am | #3

    Don, the firestopping requirement is designed to mimimize the air flow into the bay studs. Technically, it is draftstopping..but lets just call it firestopping.

    There are other ways to seal the open stud bays....plywood...drywall...solid wood blocking. There are also insulation products that will "firestop". The idea is to prevent air from flowing from the ceiling into a stud bay that may have caught fire. If no air feeds it, it uses up the oxygen and is snuffed out before it gets going.

    I've had to do it on many basements. Its easiest to simply board the entire wall to the ceiling.

    blue

    Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!

    Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, all of it is considered bottom of the barrel by Gabe. According to him I am not to be counted amongst the worst of the worst. If you want real framing information...don't listen to me..just ask Gabe!

    1. ruffmike | Jan 07, 2005 06:22am | #4

      The firestop in the wall is very important,any problem in the basement wall quickly spreads to the upper floor.I would probablly use thermafibre to stuff those cavities especially if there are lots of pipes/wires to deal with(check with inspector or whoever drew the detail first).The draftstop is really an easy deal,just throw a rip of rock on a floor joist,floating it down to the ceiling grid and going wall to wall. good luck,Mike

      1. DonCanDo | Jan 07, 2005 03:42pm | #5

        Thanks to all for your replies.  I think I understand what needs to be done and it makes sense.  I still don't understand the picture and I couldn't find the CABO codes online, but I think we'll be ok.

        Thanks,

        Don

  4. Piffin | Jan 08, 2005 02:21am | #6

    I don't find the drawing hard to understand at all. It depicts one of many ways to provide draftstop between floors and at the top of your wall there. It is probably the inspectors faviorite way or the onwe he thought was best for your particular situation if he has seen it, or just a standard typical drawintg he shows to everybody to get them out of his office temporarily. The important part is the ref to CABO 302.11. Maybe somnebody ca post the text of that paragraphg here. It probably references other ways to do the same thing.

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

  5. User avater
    Taylor | Jan 08, 2005 04:46am | #9

    Since I don't have access to the code but do have a suspended ceiling with open stud bays above the ceiling.... Is that:

    - 3/4" ply or 5/8" Type X for tops of bays
    - 3/8" ply or 1/2" DW for draftstopping?
    ^^^^

    I've been using fire-resistant caulk to fill in gaps, but what to do about larger gaps, e.g. the plumbing chase with the waste stack? Foam hardly seems appropriate....

  6. dIrishInMe | Jan 08, 2005 05:10am | #10

    What states still use CABO?
     

    Matt

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