i have over 200rft of 18ft hallways 6″ metal studs that i have to fireblock… 24″oc
best way? here what i tried today just so i could have a clue how i wanted my guys (very basic skill set labor) to do it…
a scrap of 2×6 (i cut them 6″ ) the 5 1/5 inches fits pretty tight between 6″ metal stud flanges… that fastened with 2 screws then a piece of metal track bent with 2 legs that are screwed to each stud… the 2×6 acts as fill for the 2 legs of the stud… since most all the stud legs are face’n the same way each fire block requires 1 scrap of 2×6 and one 25″ piece of track 22.5″ and 1.25″ legs on each end… took me about 5 min a block… use’n a couple spring clamps and cordless drill snips and sheet metal plyers…
better way? faster? this is the perfect kinda work to keep basic labor guys busy
thanks in advance …
p
Replies
I don't undertandf the need for the piece of track. Cut a full 2x6 the correct length, nip off two corners so it will fit inside the C. Hold it in place, run two screws through the stud on one end, one screw on the other end. For the next bay, offset the blocking about 2" higher or lower so you can get the screws in.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
the problem comes with the metal studs being 6" and 2x6 being 5.5" and my inspector wants... it sealed.. the block of 2x6 fills the void in the metal stud the the track seals off the space between the 2 studs... 6 screws per ... 2 for the wood to the stud then 1 screw in each bent leg of the track..... i tried use'n 1 screw to catch a leg of the track from each opening... just wasn't worth the trouble of try'n to hold it all while screw'n
with 18ft metal studs besides the blocking aspect of it the drywall guys will love how stiff it makes the wall,,,
p
Been doing metal studs and rock over 20 years. Rock one side and friction fit thermafiber. Ask your inspector, standard procedure here in balloon framing type situations. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
What's thermafiber?********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
http://www.thermafiber.com/
Sometimes called rockwool, comes in 3 1/2" and 6" thicknesses and for both 16" and 24" walls available at any good drywall supplier. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
inspector wants it in before he ok's it to drywall... got my day labor guys doing it.. they are half done with my track and 1 piece of 2x6 method... set em up on the slide miter saw for cut'n the track and made em a jig to mark the 4 cuts for bending the 2 short legs/flanges for attaching... i have a little air over metal stud crimping tool that crimps the track to the stud.. .... (u know how some guys can never learn to drive a screw with a screw gun... and other guys can use one bit for weeks...)
I'm sure my way is not the way any regular metal stud or drywall guy would do it... but man did it stiffen that tall wall up... but they should finish up in one more day... gives them something to do between times when the plumber or electrican or i'm getting them to hold, haul or pull on something...
thanks for the info & advice
p
Glad you got it done.
Keep the thermafiber in mind for the future.
Good luck with the bank thing. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Friction fit Thermafiber, held up with wire if needed
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Situations like this I think I've always seen the walls stuffed with insulation, generally high-density fiberglass.
What is the application?
Often, it is difficult to fire block MS Walls, so instead, the wall assembly is made "non-combustable". No non rated wood blocking, or anything combustable in the wall assembly.
I though the purpose of fire blocking was to stop the chimney effect, not make the space non combustible? Otherwise, why allow the blocking to be wood?
Otherwise, why allow the blocking to be wood?
Same reason you can use wood blocking in wood framing--it's to stop the "chimney" not to be non-combustible.
Why the BI in Ponytl's case wants it that way--well, there's no knowing . . .
There's a hole in the galvanized studs every 24", which kind of eliminates any one stud bay being a "chimney" though.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I though the purpose of fire blocking was to stop the chimney effect, not make the space non combustible? Otherwise, why allow the blocking to be wood?
Due to the knock outs, and difficulty in making a true seal, many juridictions feel that metal stud walls are all but impossible to fire block. So then, in commercial work, often on very tall walls, the wall assembly is constructed of non-combustable materials. If nothing can burn, then you don't need fire blocking.
But it all depends on the jurisdiction, the BI, the wall assembly, and the type of construction.
Even if the wall itself is non-combustable, it can still serve as a chimney. Presumably such "noncombustable" walls must be carefully sealed.
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
We used to laugh because the only thing that was flammable in the commercial buildings that we did was the fireblocks!
blueOur Skytrak is for sale. It has 500 hrs on it. We want 50k (you pay the freight) and we'll finance it. Drop me an email; it's a good buy.
The few times the BI called for it in non-rated walls (the holes in metal studs kind of obviating "fire" blocking), I just used scrap channel. Nip a triangle out of both sides at either end, and turn up (or down) like a header. Then a couple of framing points on either side.
If you get a good friction fit, you can stack a whole run in place, and run the framing points into two at once (mostly). That can go pretty quick.
The real pain is having to nibble around the in-place electrical & plumbing--but that's galvanized metal framing, too.
Cut Track to fit between stud faces +/- 1". Use chopsaw to rip ends of track web next to track sides to depth of stud flange making flange "ears." Cut 1" from one ends web making 2 "ears" extend past web. Just chop it out, neatness doesn't count as long as there is 1/4" of metal left holding the ear.
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Stagger the blocks to lessen bumps in DW. Or get fancy and cut the flange ears to half length.
Fire caulk any gaps to suit AHJ.
4 screws. 5 cuts, only two on-the-line.
I've seen experienced steel framers making these at about 45 seconds each.