FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

FIREPLACE SMOKING?

loucarabasi | Posted in General Discussion on November 29, 2006 04:33am

Hi Guys,

 You all seem to have the answers for everything!!! My fireplace lets smoke inside the house.(not alot, but enough to rain havic). I am sending of few pictures. Maybe this can help you solve my problem.

please note: When I light the fire it eventually dies out and smokes, I open the vents on the door to feed the fire and it does not help. Yes I open a window Too.

Thank you and PLEASE HELP (the wifes getting antsie)

LOU CARABASI

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. Mooney | Nov 29, 2006 05:07pm | #1

    One of the first things you need to learn to do is resize pics . They wont open them that big.

    Tim

     

  2. doorboy | Nov 29, 2006 08:33pm | #2

    I think I'd have a chimney sweep look at it first. It could be a build-up of soot, or critters making a home in there.
    A chimney sweep will be reasonably priced and will offer you piece of mind as to the condition of your chimney.



    Edited 11/29/2006 2:17 pm by doorboy

  3. Varoom | Nov 29, 2006 09:06pm | #3

    Take off the flue cap, loop a rope thru an old axe head if ya got one and drop it down, see if there is an obstruction (old critter nest).  If so, you may be able to get it loose, get the gear to sweep it out yourself or bring in the pros.  If there is no obstruction, call in an experienced chimney mason.  Have you considered putting in an insert with a liner?

    BTW, the cable guy who ran the wire over your shutter should be hunted down and shot.

     

    1. Norman | Nov 29, 2006 11:19pm | #4

      You may wanna block & seal the fireplace opening to the room b4 heaving that ax head down the chimney, ya know?

      1. Varoom | Nov 29, 2006 11:47pm | #6

        With the wife's favourite white linens ...

    2. User avater
      loucarabasi | Nov 30, 2006 01:17pm | #16

      Please, they came out last super bowl right before the came and ran a new line. It rained like an sob. The HDTV works fine!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll fix it in the spring

      p.s. You sound like the wife.

      Thanx, Lou

      1. Mooney | Nov 30, 2006 08:32pm | #23

        My guess is height of chimney or clogged which Im leaning on the first.

        If its not clogged a cheap test is to set a flue tile on top of the existing and build a fire with out the the flue cap on a calm day.

        Tim  

        1. User avater
          loucarabasi | Dec 01, 2006 02:56am | #24

          Tim, I dont understand what you mean. Can you explain how to test again

          Thank you, Lou C

          1. Mooney | Dec 01, 2006 07:06am | #29

            Sure .

            Go buy a flue tile the same diameter thats sticking out your chimney.

            On a calm day with no wind , set the flue tile directly over the existing tile with out the presence of the flue cap and start a fire. The flue tile is heavy enough , plus it has enough base to sit up there by its self.

            Code says you must have 3 ft above the highest point of your roof and you have 1. I happen to have 4 ft on mine and its a drawing sob. I believe the chimney in your house never drafted well. With the additional flue tile , you will be at a good height.

            For sh^ts and giggles you could use some foil tape on the temporary joint .

            That would definately seal off any air in the joint and might make you feel better about the flue tile not falling off which it wont with out the tape but doesnt  cost much for that insurance. Id hate for you to have a rumbling flue fire with a loose flue tile. So I guess Id feel better too.

            Tim  

  4. Lansdown | Nov 29, 2006 11:34pm | #5

    First of all I think that is meant for firewood not candles ;-)

    1. User avater
      CapnMac | Nov 30, 2006 12:07am | #8

      that is meant for firewood not candles

      Depends, don't it?  On whether those are IRC or CABO rated candles <g> . . . Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

      1. User avater
        loucarabasi | Nov 30, 2006 01:21pm | #18

        Get serious guys!!! I have to get this thing working soon!!!!!!

        The candles look nice!!!! (or not) The wife likes it for now, Plus it buys me more time.

        -Lou

         

        1. Lansdown | Nov 30, 2006 03:33pm | #20

          Candles do look nice.

        2. User avater
          CapnMac | Nov 30, 2006 07:12pm | #21

          Get serious guys!!! I have to get this thing working soon!!!!!!

          Oh, you're still new--this, occasionally, is as serious as we take things, sometimes.

          That looks like a new front, is it jsut a front, or an entire firebox unit? 

          That damper looks suspiciously small--like a gas-only sized opening not modified to "wood or gas" dimensions (not that I've found where somebody listened to the sage wisdom of a big box employee or anything <sigh>).

          Is your unit drawing outside air for combustion, or inside air?

          I'm in this reply, so I can't go back to the original post--is the problem smoke in the house, or outside, that is the issue.  Outside smoke is often an issue not of the exhaust of combustion products so much as condensing humidity becoming fog/clouds (that's because the weather "for a fire"--versus just for heat-- often contributes to that).

          If it's smoking in the house until the flue warms, then it could be (I'm just a guess on the internet, after all) that the proportions of the chimney, height & flue area, are not matched to the firebox/insert dimensions.  That gets you back to asking a local sweep, who might could tell you all you need is a smaller flue (more acceleration); or outside air for combustion, or some such.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

          1. User avater
            IMERC | Nov 30, 2006 07:19pm | #22

            inadequate make up air and up air flow..

            the damper is a choke point...

            fire is burning too cold.. 

            Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

            WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

            Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

          2. User avater
            loucarabasi | Dec 01, 2006 03:04am | #26

            Capnmac, smokes coming in the house,  cumbustion air is coming from inside the house.

            Thanx, Lou

  5. jg | Nov 30, 2006 12:05am | #7

    Hey Lou,

    Did you "warm" the flue before you lit the fire. If not, it will definately not draw the smoke up and out the flue the right way.

    If I misinterpreted your question, I apologize

    1. User avater
      loucarabasi | Nov 30, 2006 01:19pm | #17

      yes, I did warm the flue. I've had fireplaces my entire life!!!

      Its driving me crazy, maybe there are cracks and this things sucking air.

      Thanx, Lou

  6. Piffin | Nov 30, 2006 12:26am | #9

    I gave a try at looking at your photo. The smallest file was ten minutes to get a third of it, so I gave up. Make them a tenth of that size so the bandwidth can handle it. A lot of us are on dial up connections

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. User avater
      loucarabasi | Nov 30, 2006 01:22pm | #19

      I will resize the pics, Sorry bout that.

      Thanx, Lou

  7. User avater
    BillHartmann | Nov 30, 2006 01:29am | #10

    How high is that chimmey?

    It looks like it might only be 2ft over the peak, if that much.

    Don't remember the clearance, but that does not seem like much.

    1. User avater
      loucarabasi | Dec 01, 2006 03:00am | #25

      The height is around one foot above the ridge?

      -Lou

      1. User avater
        IMERC | Dec 01, 2006 03:09am | #27

        add a stack to put it 2' or more above the ridge.. 

        Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

        WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

        Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

        1. Piffin | Dec 01, 2006 03:42am | #28

          OK lOu, now that I have seen pictures, I think I know what your problem is.What's the answer worth to ya?just kidding.first thing, the chimney is not high enough, but that would only be a problem on days when you have a low pressure system or the wind is from the right direction in some locales.The greater problem is that this is not a fireplace you are showing us. It is an insert. There are several things that can be wrong with an insert installation...
          one is that the flue of the original chimney is sized too large for it. An inser toperates much like a wood stove and requires far less air than a fully open fronted frireplace. Put a unit requiring a 6" flue into a 12x12" flue and it will not draw well because it does not release enough exhaust air and heat to get the larger column of air above it moving. A temporary fix for that problem is to get a rip roaring fir of paper, cardboard, and kindling going to heat up the chimney at first, before tempering the fire for a longer burn. Without doing this, the mass of masonry is cooling the exhaust air faster than it is rising, and the cooled exhaust wants to fall again before clearing the top. The long term fix is to have a liner connected that will keep a proper size all the way up.Another possible problem is not one I can confirm with the three photos thus far. The type of insert you have shouild be connected to the old masonry flue via direct connect so no smoke is permitted to escape into the house. This is a difficult connection to do, and I would guess that a good 40% of trhese were not done right. if this is an older unit, it couled also have a rusted connector that is spilling exhaust gasses into the house. This is much more than an inconvenience, it is downright dangerous as it could be adding lethal quantities of carbon mopnoxide into your living environment.The third thing that comes to mind is that if this has been installed and used for a long time, there could be a buildup of creosote in the flue reducing the hole to almost nothing. That is an extreme case, but I have seen people manage to gum up a flue to finger sized openning in as little as a couple of months by burning green wood slowly.Finally, the interior design of this unit is not an efficient one. It is cheaply built with no smoke rise space allowed. There is a totally flat top except for the flue damper hole. it should be tapered up to that flue or have a smoke flap in the front at the least. I would expect it to smoke moderately at most times just due to the design of the box. do not use the fan until the whole unit and flue are well warmed up.There is my free advice on the smoke problem.
          You are on your own with your wife. Good luck on both counts.;) 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  8. MrBill | Nov 30, 2006 05:15am | #11

    Try again at this size:

     

    Bill Koustenis

    Advanced Automotive Machine

    Waldorf Md

  9. migraine | Nov 30, 2006 05:31am | #12

    By the look/age of the stove, I'd bet that your seals aroung the door and glass are shot. 

    Also, There are alot of these types of stoves that vent to the chimney without any pipe and they will backdraft back into the house, specially if the fire starts to cool down, or at the start when the chimney doesn't have enough heat to draw the smoke up and out.

    I'd look into both of these, along with the other suggestion about a blockage.

  10. Pierre1 | Nov 30, 2006 05:41am | #13

    Getting a sweep to check for obstructions and to advise on technical issues is a good way to start.

    The suggestions that your chimney needs pre-warming to start the updraft (such as provided by burning wadded up newspapers - hold the first flaming wad up to the flue opening) are excellent.

    You have an exterior brick chimney, which is a huge cold sink, and detrimental to the start of a good updraft, or the maintenance of an updraft if the fire is allowed to get too small. A fire set in a cold fireplace and flue will easily stall out as is happening to you.

     

  11. booch | Nov 30, 2006 06:07am | #14

    Lou I'm with hartman,

    The top of the chimney is supposed to be a minimum of 3 foot over the highest point. Per building code.

    First I'd knock out the critters as suggested. (although the fireplace looks new)

    Warm the flue with a section of the newspaperlit and held high. and see if it draws. a lit match outside the doors would tell you.

    Last step would be adding on a section of flue to the top and recapping it.

    Before that think of this. Doors are either open all the way or closed. If you have a half open setup the bifold of the doors will pull smoke into the room. It'd be obvious but think of that.

    Last thought is the damper. check and see it operates fully. If it is one of the energy efficient top-of-the-flue dampers it could be messed up and not opening properly. Even a standard top-of-the-firebox damper could be misadjusted so it doesn't open fully and draw well or you could have something on the smoke shelf behind the damper. (I once had a duck fall down my chimney as well as a blackbird flew in there too.)

    Happy hunting. PS the duck tasted foul. I guess it is important to clean them before you cook em.

     

    Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
  12. larryb | Nov 30, 2006 07:22am | #15

    Fires draw better,less smoke in room, when it is cold outside.  Higher temp differential to make hot air rise.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels

Listeners write in about fireplaces and ask questions about sharpening hand tools, easier wiring upgrades, and fixing cedar siding.

Featured Video

Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With Viewrail

Learn more about affordable, modern floating stairs, from design to manufacturing to installation.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 690: Sharpening, Wires Behind Baseboard, and Fixing Shingle Panels
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Hand Tool Sharpening Tips
  • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data